Oil Leaks - i am sure I am not the first one
#11
i was finally done with changing the Transmission filter and start putting the fluid. After about 2.5 QT the pan filled up. started the engine shifted all the gears and started to fill i am about 6.5 QT still not full. I am assuming it's very close. should I keep going? i ran out of fluid means i have to make a trip to store.
with filter change how much fluid do we need?
Thanks
with filter change how much fluid do we need?
Thanks
#14
Finally i got some time today. I will go under and see if I can take some more pic.
Then clean the bottom really good, tighten oil pan bolts, and TC bolts. drive for few days and see where the oil is coming from.
I can see TC plate is leaking - the cross bar is so rusted I am afraid to unbolt that. should i tighten the view plate? what's the torque?
Also for the front differential plate. what's the torque there? Shaft seems ok no oil there.
Thanks
Then clean the bottom really good, tighten oil pan bolts, and TC bolts. drive for few days and see where the oil is coming from.
I can see TC plate is leaking - the cross bar is so rusted I am afraid to unbolt that. should i tighten the view plate? what's the torque?
Also for the front differential plate. what's the torque there? Shaft seems ok no oil there.
Thanks
#15
I know this sounds crazy. I went ahead and change all the gear Lubes to 85/140. this thing is thick compare to my 75/90. Hope nothing goes out of whack. got the Transmission fluid done to Maxlife Synth. valve cover was does last week.
I went under tighten differential case bolts they were somewhat loose. I did take some more pic. Looks like above the Oil filter there is a mess. any idea what that could be?
Oil definitely coming from top. But also look like Oil pan Gasket may need to be replaced. Any idea how difficult that may be?
Now I am going to wash the crap our of all the Oil and see where the next leaks are coming from.
I am also thinking to switch to Rotella 15/40 dino. that may slow down the oil leak.
Any thoughts would be appreciated ?
I went under tighten differential case bolts they were somewhat loose. I did take some more pic. Looks like above the Oil filter there is a mess. any idea what that could be?
Oil definitely coming from top. But also look like Oil pan Gasket may need to be replaced. Any idea how difficult that may be?
Now I am going to wash the crap our of all the Oil and see where the next leaks are coming from.
I am also thinking to switch to Rotella 15/40 dino. that may slow down the oil leak.
Any thoughts would be appreciated ?
#16
sayeedA - While you are under there, get a can of white lightning and grease all the bushings. Also, if you have a grease gun, hit the drive shaft.
Also - download this, it will help
http://www.landroverresource.com/
Also - download this, it will help
http://www.landroverresource.com/
#17
sayeedA - While you are under there, get a can of white lightning and grease all the bushings. Also, if you have a grease gun, hit the drive shaft.
Also - download this, it will help
land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte
Also - download this, it will help
land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte
I have good Air compressed grease gun - only places are those nipples on those double u joints. and rear shaft. are there any places to Grease with gun?
grease all the bushings - do you take off the Bushing to grease that sounds painful. how else would I grease?
Now the dumbest question what is can of white lightning? what do I do with that?
Thanks
#18
Why would that sound crazy? A lot of folks use heavier oil in 15-yr old trucks with 100K+ miles; it's all good. If you have any concerns with project time & difficulty look up the exercise in the workshop manual. I always read it over 2-3 times before I start on anything. The oil pan is just a bunch of bolts BUT if you drop that go ahead & at least replace crankshaft seal and oil pump. The pan has to be dropped to get the front cover off & trust me you don't want to take the oil pan off more than once. Yes, it's a pain in the a$$ to put back on if you are laying on the ground so kill as many birds possible with your 1 stone.
The 15w/40 prob won't help with any leaks at this point, the seals are loose as cheap a hooker but you should be running the engine in the heavy Dino oil anyway; its a 60-yr old design that gets no benefit from synthetic oil - the oil pump & hydraulic lifters won't build as much pressure I don't think.
The 15w/40 prob won't help with any leaks at this point, the seals are loose as cheap a hooker but you should be running the engine in the heavy Dino oil anyway; its a 60-yr old design that gets no benefit from synthetic oil - the oil pump & hydraulic lifters won't build as much pressure I don't think.
Last edited by chubbs878; 02-08-2017 at 10:43 PM.
#19
OK Friday Night Disco. I have few questions.
I have good Air compressed grease gun - only places are those nipples on those double u joints. and rear shaft. are there any places to Grease with gun?
grease all the bushings - do you take off the Bushing to grease that sounds painful. how else would I grease?
Now the dumbest question what is can of white lightning? what do I do with that?
Thanks
I have good Air compressed grease gun - only places are those nipples on those double u joints. and rear shaft. are there any places to Grease with gun?
grease all the bushings - do you take off the Bushing to grease that sounds painful. how else would I grease?
Now the dumbest question what is can of white lightning? what do I do with that?
Thanks
I meant white lithium for the bushings. Do not take them apart, just spray either side