Hello everyone! My 97 Auto is stuck in diff lock. Went playing in snow at the weekend and needed it then couldn't get it out again. I'm a bad boy for not doing it every month but I have shifted it from time to time so it's not like it's never been moved but, it's stuck.

Read most of the stuff about this, including the very useful page detailing how to get out of this mess but I have some questions:

1) If you 'pop' the circlips/lock washers off the C linkage on top of the t-case, how the hell do you get them back on again?
2) Someone else mentioned here that the bottom of the rod down from the lever has to clear a bolt on top of the t-case. Mine feels awful close - is it possible for it to foul this bolt? If so, why (i.e. why suddenly start fouling)?

I'm going to attempt to remove the C linkage again today (no luck so far) but any additional advice would be useful - especially regarding the two questions above...

Jon

 

I have not had that happen to mine so I have no idea of what
to do to help.
I would be interested as most other D1 owners should be
on the out come.
Keep us up dated Thanks Mike.

 

Had the same thing happen to me on my '96 D1. Found some really good step by step instructions pictures and all at http://home.twcny.rr.com/eeibooks/ro...codifflock.htm worked really well for me and I havent had a problem since.

 

Thankfully solved now. As seems to be the common cause, this turned out to be a seized
linkage at the control lever end. I removed the centre console and cut away the rubber
gaiter to reveal the assembly and then it was 'simply' a case of plenty of lubricating oil and
grease and an hour or so of working it back and forth in all possible directions until it moved
freely.

One thing to note - the top of the control lever that leads down to the transfer box moves in
the SAME direction as the selection lever, not the opposite way as you might expect.

Knowing what I know now, although it would probably have been possible to free the initial
'stick' from underneath, only removing the console and exposing the assembly gives you
an opportunity to get the oil and grease right in there where it needs to be.

Jon

 

I didn't want to start another thread for this issue, but this past weekend while repairing my stuck diff-lock I came across another scenario worth mentioning. My diff lock would engage in non-locked "hi" & "low" but would not go into "4hi" or "4low". In other words, I could shift the transfer case into neutral but could not pull the lever to the left. After lubing the heck out of all the linkage from the bottom, trying to move the lever (forcefully) I resorted to the instructions someone else posted and removed my center console to have a better look at things. Turns out, if you disconnect the two linkages and unbolt the lever (4 bolts) from the top of the diff, you can get at the bushing that is on the left side. There is a shaft that the lever works left and right that (in my case) was frozen into that bushing. Took alot more penetrating oil and a few good careful wacks from a hammer to free it up. Then it was a matter of lots of oil and moving the lever back and forth, round and round etc. Works better than ever now!!

Hopefully this wasn't presented in another discussion and will help someone.

Regards,
Brian

 

I like the part about the hammer.

 

And if that hadn't worked, only would have been one thing left to do. . . get a BIGGER hammer.

Brian

 

Great minds think alike.

 

"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer."

 

and don't forget the pry bar. A very handy high tech tool to resolve sereval similiar. gotta love a rover. duboff.