Hey all, been going through the D2 in preparation for a Moab trip in OCT. Today I went ahead and performed the "Option B" procedure. I took the whole unit out, figured it would be easier than trying to get the bottom plate off while still plumbed. I first sprayed each line with Kroil. (Best stuff out there; Blaster is for light weights and bolts already loose LOL) Once the unit was on the bench, I proceeded to follow the Option B instructions to the letter. I incorporated a plug as well. reassembled without issue.

When it came to bleeding the system, it too was a piece of cake. Important note, you must have access to a wife that's eager to help as this is a two-person operation. Again, I pre sprayed each bleeder nipple with Kroil. We then started on the drivers rear wheel and bled in the traditional manner of open, down; closed, up, via a cell phone on speaker. Wife in the rig, and me under. Bear in mind the D2 is running during this operation and all 4 wheels are on ramps. It took about 15 peddle cycles to get clean clear fluid. (It should be noted that we had previously blead the system last week before I had made the decision to "mod" the abs, so the fluid was already clear). You MUST bleed each wheel till you evacuate ALL the air. Once the fluid arrived, it came with lots of burping air followed by micro fine bubbles. use a flashlight and a clear line to inspect the fluid when bleeding. After the Drivers Rear is complete, relocate to the Passenger Front and repeat. DONT forget to refill the reservoir as you go. Don't let it go dry. Follow the Passengers Front with the Drivers Rear, then finally Drivers Front. You will notice that this is the order that the ABS unit is also plumbed.
Next for fun and to be a bit ****, we backed the D2 off the ramps but just enough to get it on the ground. Then I chocked the front wheels. I lifted the Drivers Rear wheel with a bottle jack and instructed my wife to put the D2 in drive and release the brakes. Once the lifted wheel began to spin the TC engaged and applied brake pressure to the wheel. Was neat to see it in operation. I did this for about 10 sec to purge any air from the TC. We did this for each wheel, same order. Lifting, spinning, TC operating etc...After "purging" (Wife just brought me dinner, Ill be right back) (Dang that was good, Steak, potatoes, and asparagus w onions) Anyways, after "purging" we drove the D2 back on to the ramps and did a second bleed to remove any air that was introduced by the TC into each line. Same order again.

Removal of unit : 20min
Mod/solder/heat shrink etc...: 30min
Reinstall of unit : 15 min
Bleed #1: 25 min
Purge of the TC about 20 min
Bleed #2 : maybe 20 min
Lots of peace of mind.
I didn't take any photos as there are plenty on this awesome board.
Big Question is there any way to up the pressure applied by the TC to each wheel. It seems that in low gear the D2 easily overpowers the TC at idle in the above-mentioned procedure. Perhaps it is more effective in application than in my limited experience. It would seem to me that if the TC were to be very effective, it would need to be able to pull the wheel down to an almost stop there by redirecting the max torque to the other wheels. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Good brake write up, but of course I did exactly the same thing and it worked great! The peace of mind knowing that its done is nice too. There's no way to "up the pressure" of the TC system. The trick is to get used to driving the D2 with TC differently than a typical 4x4 system. The technique in the D2 is to gently squeeze on more throttle when the TC system activates and as you do so the system recognizes that you want a more aggressive application of the system. Because the system works by "pulsing" the brakes, at idle it won't do much because the pulsing isn't sufficient to stop the wheel, even when the system is working it's but off the wheel will still spin, well, more of jerk, but enough torque will be redistributed to get the job done. Side note, the system is more aggressive in 4 low as opposed to 4 high. It's a little awkward at first because your loose wheel is spinning like crazy and you need to overcome the desire to back off the throttle but I think it's really effective, more so then people give it credit for. Now there's always going to be some guy telling you that it's not nearly as good as locking the CDL and getting a set of front and rear diff lockers and of course it's not but you need to be in some pretty gnarly situations before the TC system is insufficient. I don't do any extreme off roading my D2, but probably more than most and TC has always done the job for me, you can look up videos online to see it in action.

 

I'm curious if you got a good hard pedal. I've tried bleeding mine numerous times, with someone inside pumping the pedal but engine not running, and using a remote switch to activate the ABS. I've gotten a good firm pedal at least once, but it didn't last long. I've been living with the double pump for years. Also, when I've bled with someone inside pumping the pedal I'm pretty sure I've done passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, and driver front.

 

Like new. Not exaggerating.
like stated above, when bleeding the brakes, the lr should be running. Also, the order is non typical.... it's driver side rear, then passenger front. Then passenger rear, then drivers front.

 

Like new. Not exaggerating.
like stated above, when bleeding the brakes, the lr should be running. Also, the order is non typical.... it's driver side rear, then passenger front. Then passenger rear, then drivers front.
Don't use a vacuum pump

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

Great, your traction control works; now get on activating CDL and you will have an off-road machine!

Unfortunately, the D2 Traction Control is LR version 1.x and you won't be walking obstacles with street tires....for that you have to buy a new(er) Land Rover.

 

I do have the cdl option. 2 in lift coming soon. And new tires. Tires to be determined.

 

I don't where you found this info, but I for one am sure glad you shared it!

I've used the normal brake bleed procedure (RR, LR, RF, LF), I used the procedure listed in the Rave manual (RF, LF, RR,LR), and none of them helped. I've been having to double pump my brakes since I got my D2 two years ago as the brake pedal had a long pedal when I got it. I've replaced the Master cylinder, installed stainless brake lines, bleed the brake half a dozen times, and none of that made any difference in pedal feel, at all. Until you listed this procedure, And now, after 2 years of frustration, I finally have a decent feeling brake pedal that I don't have to double pump to get good feel out of. It's a night and day difference, honestly! Thanks again for posting this, although I am curious where you found this info...and it should probably be a forum sticky or something if any admins wanted to do that, definitely helped me out

 

I've bled brakes successfully many times over many decades. What's the rationale for why the engine should be running?