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  #1  
Old 09-22-2020, 06:22 PM
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Ok went and did it.... ordered the 2 inch lift kit from lucky8. Terrafirma MD on the way soon. Sway bar links also as mine are pretty worn.
275 65 R18 Falken wildpeak at3 tires also
 
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Old 09-22-2020, 10:44 PM
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Nice choice on the tires, I think those are my top pick if I were to get A/Ts anytime soon.
 
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Old 09-23-2020, 07:43 AM
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Make sure you spray clear coat on the TF springs and shocks. I wish I did.
 
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Old 09-23-2020, 09:22 AM
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Also if you plan on doing any sort of flexing you might want to start soaking the 4 10MM bolts which hold the front cross member into place as the front drive shaft will slam into it while flexing off road. I have removed them on every single D2 I own and not a single issue. The spacers people add just make you have a low hanging spot in which you will get caught on off road. Best advice is to ditch it totally and move on with your life. It also helps when it's removed if your front drive shaft takes a dump as it can fall to the ground if it breaks vs hit the cross member and bounce directly into your transmission!

Congrats on the lift and as Juke said spray some clearcoat onto the springs if you want em to stay looking decent.
 
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Old 09-23-2020, 10:04 AM
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Ditching the crossmember is a fantastic idea and those little bolts suck if not sprayed down.
 
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Old 09-23-2020, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by whowa004
Ditching the crossmember is a fantastic idea and those little bolts suck if you actually need to take them out some day.

Fixed that for you. 3 hours with punches, chisels and a drill to get this one off. Two came out, six stripped/snapped the head off. I do not understand the logic behind using M8 bolts with an M6 head in that particular location where threads are exposed.




 
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Old 09-23-2020, 12:12 PM
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ha yea I've gotten lucky that both D2s I had no issues pulling mine but both are desert rust free trucks. Now the key here is to leave the rear cross member as that one is actually structural lol the front one is useless and essentially ensures trans destruction if front driveshaft gives out. Those small bolts with only one side of the frame captured will not stop any sort of frame twist (people love to claim that front one is structural, frame would need to be strengthened and larger grade 8 hardware used if this were the case).
 
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Old 09-23-2020, 12:21 PM
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Yep rear support is for sure needed, but that one up front under the front drive shaft is just a nightmare for the driveshaft itself, off roading, and sometimes it will not come off! I've only had 1 give me an issue and it was a rust bucket. I always soak the bolts before I attempt to remove them and I make absolutely certain to use a good 10mm socket to avoid rounding the heads off those very soft bolts!
 
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Old 09-23-2020, 12:40 PM
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So you run without the front cross member Best? You see/feel zero difference? Maybe I will remove mine. More for the driveshaft sake, I've maybe rocked it on one obstacle...idk. Ive had it off already for cat repair
 
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Old 09-23-2020, 01:08 PM
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I run 2 without it with zero difference. My one disco gets wheeled extremely hard and there is zero frame twist or negative effects from this. If you offroad at all and still have the crossmember I'm willing to bet the driveshaft is coming into contact with it, especially if you disconnect the front sway bar. Like Best said the spacer option only increases the chances of getting it hung up on a rock and may still not be enough of a space depending on lift size.
 
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