The E fan is visible behind the grill.

 

Thanks.

Normally removing grill would be trivial, but the D2 has a front bumper guard (LR OEM, foam covered POS, totally cosmetic, wouldn't stop anything), that is a real PITA to work around.

I'll check it out.

Fan runs 100% of time when AC engaged?

And I have had hit-and-miss experience with ODB2 bluetooth adapters (aka ELM327s). Any recommendations?

I do have a nice CREADER123(?) that gives me coolant temps, but my brother has it at the moment.

Oh any on further 30 sec inspection under the hood, the thermostat-to-lower block hose is partially collapsed, like there was a partial vacuum in the system (it's no longer round but rather oval/flat-ish). I opened bleeder but nothing happened.

 

OK, Best4x4 got it right.

Electric condenser fan not working.

As AC still working, nothing in the AC clutch circuit (temp sensor, etc.) is affected.

Probably fan, but could be fuse or relay (does it have a relay), right?

Daughter's Saab (am I a car masochist or what) had similar problem, turned out to be the fuse. Replaced and problem never came back (fuse never blew again).

If it is the fan, how hard to replace? Looks like that front cross member is in way and doesn't bolt off like on some cars to provide access.

Now double bummer that my donor vehicle was crushed as it had an intact front end (including presumably a condenser fan).

On to eBay and Car-Part.com.

 

Checked out RAV. Condenser fan removal/installation looks super easy.

But before I buy one online and replace, anything else I can do confirm it is indeed the fan and not something else?

I will check fuse, test the relay and both relay power and control circuits. Then I guess I'll put 12v directly on the fan (the trusty old 30-87 jumper) and see what happens.

BTW, where is the fuse and relay? In engine compartment or under dash?

Would you do it differently?

---------

Update.

OK, in RAV, it looks like fan and clutch share a relay, so if fan is out but clutch still engages, then the issue has to be the fan or the wiring from the relay to the fan, right?

 

Efan has a 40amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Two ways to check it = #1 disconnect the electrical plug and supply 12v directly to the fan. It should spin up nice and smooth. If it doesn't do anything = it's dead. #2 take a long thin rod or stick and see if the fan blade spins at all (this method doesn't test the actual electronic motor, but it will give you a quick idea of the bearing condition). If it spins it could still have a dead motor, but if it's hard or doesn't spin at all chances are it's toast.

If I'm not mistaken the actual engine fan from a 96-98 Toyota Corolla was the same as the D2 Efan for the AC.

 

Run a jumper from the battery to the fan to actually check the fan.

 

If I assume that the wiring is good, then just jumpering blades 30-87 on the relay socket with the AC on and the engine running should do the same in terms of delivering 12v and current to the connector, right?

And though I discovered 5 junkyards in Austin area with a total 8 D2s (Hurray! I guess I just needed to look on Car-Part.com) where I could get a used condenser fan for $40-70, I found another thread on the forum (using condenser fan as a search term, go figure) that references the VDO PM9128 as a direct replacement of the condenser motor, ala the Hyundai purge valve match. This is the motor Best4x4 is referring to (also fits Honda Odyssey). You can find the PM9128 online for $40, about the same the cheapest used complete assembly you'll find, so I think I am going with that.

Here's that thread:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ser-fan-47757/

Interesting info in the same thread about using a GM truck fan as a PnP direct fit to move more air.

BTW, I think I know what engine "no power" issue is.

A couple months back, I had the engine lose all power but still run.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-s-fast-95460/

After looking at the pattern of misfire codes (P0302,3,5,8) -- and the goof fortune that I moved my coil packs out from behind the intake plenum and to the front of engine (someone on forum made a kit for it including new plug wires) and had labeled the coil packs by cylinders -- I figured out I had a bad coil pack and replaced it. I guess the fact that the same codes kept coming up and there were four of them also could have been a clue that it was a coil pack.

But being cheap, I only replaced the failed pack and not both.

I am betting the other pack finally failed: I will confirm it hopefully once I get my CREADER123 OBD2 reader back from my brother today.

LRD2s certainly force you to think, be a pattern recognizer and a problem solver.

If, as some claim, continual mental stimulation (frustration) is one of the keys to avoiding/delaying Alzheimers/dementia, then everyone on this forum should be just fine.