P0150 and Suspensions Dead Flat
#1
10-02-2022, 04:00 AM
P0150 and Suspensions Dead Flat
Hello Everyone,
I am finding myself in a pickle. I had a code to replace the Bank 2 1 O2 sensor, and I did. The code is consistently on, and the air suspension is not rising, even at highway speeds. I am not sure how to proceed from here. I thought the connector might have been dirty, but it wasn't, and I even sprayed it with an electrical connector cleaner. If I push the button that raises the suspensions, it blinks, but nothing happens.
I only noticed the issue with the suspension after changing the O2 sensor.
I have a 2003 Land Rover Discovery 2 HSE7 with 163000 miles 4.6L V8 and live in AZ.
I am finding myself in a pickle. I had a code to replace the Bank 2 1 O2 sensor, and I did. The code is consistently on, and the air suspension is not rising, even at highway speeds. I am not sure how to proceed from here. I thought the connector might have been dirty, but it wasn't, and I even sprayed it with an electrical connector cleaner. If I push the button that raises the suspensions, it blinks, but nothing happens.
I only noticed the issue with the suspension after changing the O2 sensor.
I have a 2003 Land Rover Discovery 2 HSE7 with 163000 miles 4.6L V8 and live in AZ.
#2
10-02-2022, 09:46 AM
Recovery Vehicle
They are totally unrelated- at least in function.
First thing to check is if the air compressor is coming on. Do this by starting the vehicle and making certain all doors and the hood are completely closed. You will definitely hear the compressor coming on. This is NOT the SAI compressor that sounds like a jet engine under the hood. The rear air compressor is on the driver’s side on the outside of the frame about halfway between the tires.
If the compressor is not coming on, you have a starting point. The next super simple check is to make sure the doors (the hood and rear cargo can be touchy) are closed completely. Check the hood plunger in particular to make sure it is getting compressed. This is where your O2 sensor fix and this may be related in that the plunger may have been whacked out of place while under the hood. Unlikely but possible. The plunger is on the driver’s side right up at the front by the air box and hard to miss.
Anyway, if all that looks good, then the next obvious check are the fuses. I can’t recall where they are but I think related ones are both in the cab and under the hood. Easy enough to find. If a fuse is blown, there is a very good chance you have bigger fish to fry as fuses just don’t blow unless there is a short or the like.
The next check from there is going to be compressor itself. If you’ve had a leak for some time, and the compressor is working overtime, they can burn up. There are rebuild kits out there for the seals, but the assembly is pretty pricey.
If in all of this the air compressor is in fact coming on, then you have an air leak obviously that the compressor can’t keep up with (and you’ll be replacing the compressor soon if it’s not coming up at all). If it is both sides evenly, then it most likely is close to the compressor and is one of the valves or the like and not one of the lines to the bags themselves. If it is one side or the other, then it could be a bag or the line going to it.
You will also want to check the ride height sensors just to make sure they are still there and functioning.
All of this diagnosis is WAY easier with a Nanocom as each of the components can be checked individually. The system is super easy to both diagnose and fix and I totally love it.
First thing to check is if the air compressor is coming on. Do this by starting the vehicle and making certain all doors and the hood are completely closed. You will definitely hear the compressor coming on. This is NOT the SAI compressor that sounds like a jet engine under the hood. The rear air compressor is on the driver’s side on the outside of the frame about halfway between the tires.
If the compressor is not coming on, you have a starting point. The next super simple check is to make sure the doors (the hood and rear cargo can be touchy) are closed completely. Check the hood plunger in particular to make sure it is getting compressed. This is where your O2 sensor fix and this may be related in that the plunger may have been whacked out of place while under the hood. Unlikely but possible. The plunger is on the driver’s side right up at the front by the air box and hard to miss.
Anyway, if all that looks good, then the next obvious check are the fuses. I can’t recall where they are but I think related ones are both in the cab and under the hood. Easy enough to find. If a fuse is blown, there is a very good chance you have bigger fish to fry as fuses just don’t blow unless there is a short or the like.
The next check from there is going to be compressor itself. If you’ve had a leak for some time, and the compressor is working overtime, they can burn up. There are rebuild kits out there for the seals, but the assembly is pretty pricey.
If in all of this the air compressor is in fact coming on, then you have an air leak obviously that the compressor can’t keep up with (and you’ll be replacing the compressor soon if it’s not coming up at all). If it is both sides evenly, then it most likely is close to the compressor and is one of the valves or the like and not one of the lines to the bags themselves. If it is one side or the other, then it could be a bag or the line going to it.
You will also want to check the ride height sensors just to make sure they are still there and functioning.
All of this diagnosis is WAY easier with a Nanocom as each of the components can be checked individually. The system is super easy to both diagnose and fix and I totally love it.
#3
10-03-2022, 01:07 AM
Hello longtallsally,
Thank you for your reply. The fuse was blown. I put in a new one and will keep an eye on it.
Do you have any suggestions about p0150?
I put the new O2 sensor, and I tried to cancel it while driving, and it doesn't come back on, but after I start the car again after less than a mile, the engine check light comes back on.
Thank you,
Thank you for your reply. The fuse was blown. I put in a new one and will keep an eye on it.
Do you have any suggestions about p0150?
I put the new O2 sensor, and I tried to cancel it while driving, and it doesn't come back on, but after I start the car again after less than a mile, the engine check light comes back on.
Thank you,
#4
10-03-2022, 07:03 AM
Super Moderator
#5
10-08-2022, 02:35 AM
Hello Best4x4,
So I checked the data when I started the car and drove off; the Voltage of the O2 sensor as the vehicle ignites raised to 0.4V after a second 0.2V and dropped to 0.0V. I go, and as soon as the car reaches operating temp, the check engine light comes on. I delete the code and clean the principles; the Voltage remains 0.0V, and until I turn off the car and turn It back on, wait 30 seconds, it goes on again. I checked the drive cycle, and the Oxygen sensor part says it is not finished. I am worried that there is an issue with the connection. if so what should I do? Is it possible that a new sensor is not working? I read about it online but it seems weird to me.
So I checked the data when I started the car and drove off; the Voltage of the O2 sensor as the vehicle ignites raised to 0.4V after a second 0.2V and dropped to 0.0V. I go, and as soon as the car reaches operating temp, the check engine light comes on. I delete the code and clean the principles; the Voltage remains 0.0V, and until I turn off the car and turn It back on, wait 30 seconds, it goes on again. I checked the drive cycle, and the Oxygen sensor part says it is not finished. I am worried that there is an issue with the connection. if so what should I do? Is it possible that a new sensor is not working? I read about it online but it seems weird to me.
#6
10-08-2022, 09:36 AM
Recovery Vehicle
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