Passenger Window Sticking when opening
#1
Passenger Window Sticking when opening
Hi all,
Out of the blue, the passenger door on my LR Discovery II (2003) seems to be sticking when opening it (right after 1in opening it makes a clack sound, that didn't use to). I have attached link to video below showing this behavior.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fako8t5wtg...512-WA0050.mp4
Not sure what is making this, it seems the window motor is fine as the window can go down and then close again but I am worried that if I continue to open this window I may break something.
Any thoughts on what could be causing this? Is it an easy fix that I can fix myself? (I am not a total newbie on taking things apart, though I am at taking apart cars).
Any guidance is welcome.
best,
macutan
Out of the blue, the passenger door on my LR Discovery II (2003) seems to be sticking when opening it (right after 1in opening it makes a clack sound, that didn't use to). I have attached link to video below showing this behavior.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fako8t5wtg...512-WA0050.mp4
Not sure what is making this, it seems the window motor is fine as the window can go down and then close again but I am worried that if I continue to open this window I may break something.
Any thoughts on what could be causing this? Is it an easy fix that I can fix myself? (I am not a total newbie on taking things apart, though I am at taking apart cars).
Any guidance is welcome.
best,
macutan
#3
#4
There are two guide wheels rolling inside a channel on the window regulator. They are made of cheap brittle plastic and they end up breaking in half at some point. When that happens, the pantograph arm slides in the channel and hangs on stamping imperfections as it goes along inside of it. No special tool needed but a panel popper tool is nice to have, and I bought a few replacement door panel clips because you always end up breaking a few.
Last edited by Lowest Bidder; 05-13-2014 at 06:35 AM.
#5
One thing you should invest in, and it's pretty cheap, is a good door puller tool. Your door card, or panel is held to the metal door with a number of plastic plugs. It's not uncommon to break some of these when you remove the door card a little too aggressively. The puller helps to get behind the plastic plug enabling it to be removed without damage. Other than that you'll need 8mm and 10mm sockets for removing the regulator (plus a pair of dykes to cut the plastic ties holding the wiring in place). The door card itself is removed with just a phillips head screw driver. There are two screws in the grab handle, one in the bezel for the door handle and screws along the side and bottom of the cubby. There's also a vapor seal between the door card and the door. Use a razor to cut it away and remember to reinstall it with tape when you're done.
#6
#7
There are two guide wheels rolling inside a channel on the window regulator. They are made of cheap brittle plastic and they end up breaking in half at some point. When that happens, the pantograph arm slides in the channel and hangs on stamping imperfections as it goes along inside of it. No special tool needed but a panel popper tool is nice to have, and I bought a few replacement door panel clips because you always end up breaking a few.
I extracted this photo from another post in the forums:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-repair-34345/
Do they sell those two plastic guide wheels pieces separately? or I need to buy the whole regulator? If I have to buy the whole regulator why is there such a big difference between
Land Rover Window Regulator - Front Right Hand (Same Fit As Genuine Part # CUH102300) | Land Rover Body & Chassis Parts and
Window Regulator - Front Right Hand (Genuine Part # LR006373 ) - Land Rover door catches\window regulators from Atlantic British
A "genuine" part is so much more expensive...?
#8
As far as I know, they don't, because the wheel shaft is a steel rivet electro-welded to the arm. I printed ABS rollers in two halves using my 3D printer and glued them over the shaft with acetone. One winter later, lowering the window 4 times a day to swipe my card in the parking lot, and it's still working smoothly. Total cost, two hours of my time and 5 cents worth of plastic...
#9
As far as I know, they don't, because the wheel shaft is a steel rivet electro-welded to the arm. I printed ABS rollers in two halves using my 3D printer and glued them over the shaft with acetone. One winter later, lowering the window 4 times a day to swipe my card in the parking lot, and it's still working smoothly. Total cost, two hours of my time and 5 cents worth of plastic...
What about the 3D pring file, is that something you dont mind sharing? I can try to find a shop around here to print me a couple of wheels.
Thx
macutan
#10
Best,
m