Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Passenger Window Sticking when opening

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-12-2014 | 09:45 PM
macutan's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
From: Westchester, NY
Default Passenger Window Sticking when opening

Hi all,

Out of the blue, the passenger door on my LR Discovery II (2003) seems to be sticking when opening it (right after 1in opening it makes a clack sound, that didn't use to). I have attached link to video below showing this behavior.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fako8t5wtg...512-WA0050.mp4

Not sure what is making this, it seems the window motor is fine as the window can go down and then close again but I am worried that if I continue to open this window I may break something.

Any thoughts on what could be causing this? Is it an easy fix that I can fix myself? (I am not a total newbie on taking things apart, though I am at taking apart cars).

Any guidance is welcome.

best,
macutan
 
  #2  
Old 05-12-2014 | 10:42 PM
ZGPhoto's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 4,533
Likes: 102
From: Burlington, VT
Default

regulator, you can do it yourself.
 
  #3  
Old 05-13-2014 | 03:50 AM
macutan's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
From: Westchester, NY
Default

Originally Posted by ZGPhoto
regulator, you can do it yourself.
Thank you ZGPhoto. I guess I would need to replace the whole part. Doesn't look crazily expensive (~$80)... Any tools I should invest on while I place the order for that part?
 
  #4  
Old 05-13-2014 | 06:30 AM
Lowest Bidder's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 155
Likes: 14
Default

There are two guide wheels rolling inside a channel on the window regulator. They are made of cheap brittle plastic and they end up breaking in half at some point. When that happens, the pantograph arm slides in the channel and hangs on stamping imperfections as it goes along inside of it. No special tool needed but a panel popper tool is nice to have, and I bought a few replacement door panel clips because you always end up breaking a few.
 

Last edited by Lowest Bidder; 05-13-2014 at 06:35 AM.
  #5  
Old 05-13-2014 | 07:07 AM
Paul Grant's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 163
From: CT
Default

One thing you should invest in, and it's pretty cheap, is a good door puller tool. Your door card, or panel is held to the metal door with a number of plastic plugs. It's not uncommon to break some of these when you remove the door card a little too aggressively. The puller helps to get behind the plastic plug enabling it to be removed without damage. Other than that you'll need 8mm and 10mm sockets for removing the regulator (plus a pair of dykes to cut the plastic ties holding the wiring in place). The door card itself is removed with just a phillips head screw driver. There are two screws in the grab handle, one in the bezel for the door handle and screws along the side and bottom of the cubby. There's also a vapor seal between the door card and the door. Use a razor to cut it away and remember to reinstall it with tape when you're done.
 
  #6  
Old 05-13-2014 | 07:08 AM
Paul Grant's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 163
From: CT
Default

Oh, if you're just getting the regulator, you'll need a Torx socket to remove the window motor from the regulator. I want to say it's a T25 or T27 but it would be best to just pick up a set of Torx sockets if you plan to do much in the way of repair on your truck.
 
  #7  
Old 05-14-2014 | 02:29 AM
macutan's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
From: Westchester, NY
Default

Originally Posted by Lowest Bidder
There are two guide wheels rolling inside a channel on the window regulator. They are made of cheap brittle plastic and they end up breaking in half at some point. When that happens, the pantograph arm slides in the channel and hangs on stamping imperfections as it goes along inside of it. No special tool needed but a panel popper tool is nice to have, and I bought a few replacement door panel clips because you always end up breaking a few.
Thank you LB. I did some more research on this issue and with your comment I am guessing that you are referring to the broken pieces on the picture link below?

Name:  IMG_6663.jpg
Views: 345
Size:  25.4 KB

I extracted this photo from another post in the forums:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-repair-34345/

Do they sell those two plastic guide wheels pieces separately? or I need to buy the whole regulator? If I have to buy the whole regulator why is there such a big difference between

Land Rover Window Regulator - Front Right Hand (Same Fit As Genuine Part # CUH102300) | Land Rover Body & Chassis Parts and
Window Regulator - Front Right Hand (Genuine Part # LR006373 ) - Land Rover door catches\window regulators from Atlantic British

A "genuine" part is so much more expensive...?
 
  #8  
Old 05-14-2014 | 06:32 AM
Lowest Bidder's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 155
Likes: 14
Default

Originally Posted by macutan
Thank you LB. I did some more research on this issue and with your comment I am guessing that you are referring to the broken pieces on the picture link below?
Yes that was the culprit in my case, and as I understand in many cases. The arm that does not have a wheel hangs in the rail, and releases suddenly when the motor is putting too much pressure on it.


Originally Posted by macutan
Do they sell those two plastic guide wheels pieces separately? or I need to buy the whole regulator?
As far as I know, they don't, because the wheel shaft is a steel rivet electro-welded to the arm. I printed ABS rollers in two halves using my 3D printer and glued them over the shaft with acetone. One winter later, lowering the window 4 times a day to swipe my card in the parking lot, and it's still working smoothly. Total cost, two hours of my time and 5 cents worth of plastic...
 
  #9  
Old 05-14-2014 | 10:19 AM
macutan's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
From: Westchester, NY
Default

Originally Posted by Lowest Bidder
As far as I know, they don't, because the wheel shaft is a steel rivet electro-welded to the arm. I printed ABS rollers in two halves using my 3D printer and glued them over the shaft with acetone. One winter later, lowering the window 4 times a day to swipe my card in the parking lot, and it's still working smoothly. Total cost, two hours of my time and 5 cents worth of plastic...
VERY NEAT!.. do tell more. So basically you printed each side of the roller and glued them in place around the relevant location? How did you glue them using acetone? I am not familiar with acetone being a glue, I am very interested on following you instructions if you can spare a couple of minutes to write them
What about the 3D pring file, is that something you dont mind sharing? I can try to find a shop around here to print me a couple of wheels.

Thx
macutan
 
  #10  
Old 05-14-2014 | 10:20 AM
macutan's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
From: Westchester, NY
Default

Originally Posted by Paul Grant
Oh, if you're just getting the regulator, you'll need a Torx socket to remove the window motor from the regulator. I want to say it's a T25 or T27 but it would be best to just pick up a set of Torx sockets if you plan to do much in the way of repair on your truck.
Thank you Paul, I am thinking on starting to build my tool set for this car. Your advice here is very valuable, I have already added these tools to my shopping cart.

Best,
m
 


Quick Reply: Passenger Window Sticking when opening



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:16 AM.