I'm here again to pander for the wisdom of the group,

I was driving home, stopped at an intersection, and my engine shut off. No stuttering, it was just like I shut it off with the ignition key. I had flashing transmission lights, no SES light. After around 5 minutes, got it re-started, and it shut off again after a few minutes of running, then would stall and restart a few cycles, then shut off and not re-start. I waited another 5-10 minutes, got it re-started, and got it the last 2 miles home.

I have an AB iLand scan tool, so no trouble code ID numbers, just the descriptions:

Throttle angle / Torque signal (power stage)
Drive cycle A

CAN timeout monitoring

Anti-Theft Alarm serial link fault
Drive cycle A

Blocked Idle Air Control Valve
Drive cycle A

CAN Interface timeout Transmission Control Module
Drive cycle A

CAN timeout monitoring/ missing modes detected

CAN level monitoring.

I can start it, and it will run smoothly for about 5 minutes, then shut off and produce any of the above codes on a rotating basis, but repeatable. After researching the Rave manual, it seems the issues reside either with the ECM, the Transmission control module, or something between the two. Is my assessment correct? Do the ECM's go bad? Anyone have any experience with this type of issues?

Thanks for any insight that can be provided.

Wesley

 

 

Yes it was, but I had removed the headliner a month prior and it had ran without issue up until recently, but it may be related....

 

I am lucky enough to have several trucks and a large stockpile of parts, so troubleshooting for me often consist of swapping known good parts with suspected bad parts, but I do have a few ideas.

1. I have never seen nor heard of a bad TCU.

2. I have had an ECU go bad, the oxygen sensor drivers went bad for an unexplained reason, different ecu fixed it without issue.

One idea, purchased used ECU/cluster combo off ebay to swap in to yours. If it fixes it, great. Does not fix it? Sell it on ebay for what you paid for it.

I don't like your scan tool, I think it is feeding you codes that don't really exist but I have no basis for that thought other than I have never heard of or seen those codes. I recommend you purchase a $5 Elm327 off Amazon and use the torque app to read the code numbers.

 

Thanks Extinct. I'm not a fan of the AB iLand OBD tool either, but I bought it and it's what I have... I did confirm with another OBD tool that Friday Night Disco loaned me (many thanks) with a repeatable P1843 (CAN timeout/ missing modules) after engine self shuts-off. After sleeping on it, it dawned on me to pull the ECM and check for corrosion on the connectors. As Friday said, I have been chasing leaks that materialize on the front passenger corner/ foot well, so it may be solved by a can or two of electrical contact cleaner.

I'll report back with some pictures and outcome.

 

As an update,

I pulled the ECM out, and the back of it was wet. Most of the pins for the plugs were covered with green corrosion. I was able to find a shop that can test/ repair LR control modules. I should know something next week either confirming or eliminating my suspicion of it being the source of the issues. As an aside, I checked the front sunroof drain outlets at the bottom of the "A" pillars, to find them both packed with mud. So I've cleaned them out during my down time.

 

 

That's a good question. I have the iLand tool and have been experiencing issues with the overall operability of it. Since it is LR specific, it doesn't give trouble codes, just the LR specific definition. That's not bad, but as I talk with LR trained mechanics, the OBD codes are the first thing they ask for. The connectivity between the bluetooth OBD plug and my phone can be quite aggravating at times as it can randomly disconnect during performing functions. The iLand app on my android style phone seizes up during operations from time to time as well. Those are my only big complaints.

I first tried a Foxwell 520. It had a software glitch in the brake servicing module, which the supplier (from China) through Amazon just asked for the unit back, and gave me a refund. I ended up purchasing the iLand set up after that, just for the reason you outlined, and does perform all the tasks it claims it can. It's just those glitches with the system that I outlined can be, for me, pretty aggravating when I'm trying to complete maintenance on my D2.

 

 

If iLand doesn't give you trouble code numbers then that's an instant pass for me

I have the Britpart Lynx 1.0, which is basically the model before the iLand (iLand is a rebranded Britpart Lynx 2.0), but it's not an app, it's a module that you hook up a windows computer or tablet to.I get trouble codes. Overall it works well, programs keys, all that. Based on my research, the Nanocom is the way to go. Or you can sometimes find the official TestBook T4 on eBay... for 10,000$+...