Propshaft time lol
#12
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Still the heat from the cat converter cooked the grease in the front u-joint of the double cardan. I discovered the problem when I couldn't get any grease to flow through the zerk, it all just leaked out around the zerk. I rebuilt my original equipment shaft and swapped it back in. I've got the parts to repair the Tom Woods shaft now and am just waiting for a warmer day to rebuild it. I started to have the chirp noise under power, but even if I hadn't, the grease zerk would have been a major clue. The worn u-joint felt firm when I tried to move it when it was still installed, but was really loose when I removed the propshaft so feeling the propshaft isn't a good indication. I've decided that I will grease the u-joints every three months regardless of the oil change schedule. And don't trust someone else to do it right for you. I was having my oil changed at an indy LR repair shop and asked them to grease the u-joints with the oil change. You really need to pump the new grease through until fresh grease comes out of all four grease seals. The guy at the shop is just going to give it a couple of squirts and be done with it.
I have a TW driveshaft and when I pumped in the grease last oil change (1 week ago) one of the zerks was not working, the grease came out at the zerk and not via the ujoints. The other zerks worked as advertised. The reason I ask is because my driveshaft is extremely new and i've only put about 3k on the truck since it was installed (by a shop, not me). I'd be pretty annoyed if it was broken already.
#13
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If you can't get grease to through the zerk, it is a sign that the grease has been cooked by the cat converter. It may be that only the zerk is plugged, but it is more than likely that the whole u-joint is ruined. You should remove the propshaft to inspect the u-joint. You can't really tell anything while it is installed unless it is just obviously destroyed. Once the propshaft is out and not under tension, you should be able to tell.
The u-joints need to be greased when the new propshaft is installed. You can't rely on the little bit of grease that held the needle bearings in the cups. If they don't get greased as soon as it is installed, it won't last any time at all.
The u-joints need to be greased when the new propshaft is installed. You can't rely on the little bit of grease that held the needle bearings in the cups. If they don't get greased as soon as it is installed, it won't last any time at all.
Last edited by Colorado David; 01-04-2013 at 01:38 PM. Reason: additional information
#14
#15
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#16
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If your shaft has not been rebuilt or replaced, I am not sure what you are waiting for. You have been around long enough to know, looking or shaking the shaft won't tell you much of anything. If you don't have 1 grease fitting on each joint get rid of it before it costs you a tranny.
Its all about the money Mike. Up until the end of December I was making $12 per hour, lost the job, waited afew weeks and now I'm making a woping $8.50 an hour and only get paid bi-weekly -first paycheck will be withheld. Brakes are still not finnished yet and check engine light and 3 amigios are on. Got alot of work to do and that is the ONLY reason I did not buy my new shaft yet.
In a emergency situation would it be possible to remove the shaft and drive around for afew weeks or more with the CDL locked? Will I still be able to drive on the highway to get to work? Will my disco be able to make it up the steep hills to get to my house every night? If so then I will take this route and remove the front shaft and drive like that until I can afford a new shaft. Either that or put my hands together and pray to the Rover gods for mercy...
Im not meaning to complain and I knew exactly what I was getting into, BUT nobody expects to loose a good paying job in a split second. December was filled with holiday planning, gifts etc so.... cut me a little bit of slack here.
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#19
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Lock the CDL in high correct? Not in low range? AND have you tried driving 65-70 mph on the highway with just the rear propshaft mounted?