The more I wrap my head around this, I'm beginning to think some kind of ECU issue, and that is why he is getting battery voltage on terminal 86, when the ECU should be toggling that contact to ground with key on.

Just for SAG, I went downstairs and unplugged my inertia switch to see what effect that would have. Flashers came on, and would crank no start. I plugged the inertia switch back in, reset it, and got vehicle to start, but the flashers remained on. I spent several minutes of trying everything to get the flashers off. I finally read the manual to see that the driver's door must be closed and the key cycled from off to on. I had been messing around with the driver's door open.

If ECU is not talking to BCU, won't start either. They need to be synced up (start talking), by letting system be powered up, no cranking, for 5 - 10 minutes.

At least no alarm immobilize light on.

ECU has to switch main relay on, that "lights up" every injector, the IACV, the MAF, the O2s, and the evap. Fuses f1 and f2 important.

Main relay also powers up fuel pump relay coil, if ECU has it switched to ground. Connecter 635 on ECU should be snug. F12 runs ECU. Should re-check with ohm meter every fuse in under hood box.

Ok. So I left the key in the on position for 10 minutes and came back and tried to start. still not starting. HOWEVER for fun I pushed in the schrader valve just like before and I got a sputter of fuel. Lots of air bubbles as well but I did squirt out fuel for the first time since I began this journey. this was encouraging so I tried some more cranking and more checking the schrader valve etc. Each time still no start and each time there is fuel sputtering out of the schrader valve, but not steady and not enough pressue to run the engine. I did try holding the pedal down while cranking, but no luck there either. I need a 2nd person to work the key while I test for Voltage at the pump, but the fuel is getting there someway, must be the pump. Also for fun I hooked the diagnostic tool back up and again throwing P1230. Not sure what to make of this now. I want to have my dad come back over and have him crank it while I check for spark and check for 12v at the pump. Before now, I was definitely not getting a drop of fuel, and after leaving key on for 10 min I am getting fuel, it just seems like a lot of air and not enough pressure honestly. May be time to rent a pressure gauge and check for spark to see what I really have now. Any other advice for tomorrow night's daignostic session? I think I am done for today.

Which relay is the main relay? What does the icon look like ?

I just rechecked every fuse in the underhood box with ohm meter and all are good. Cranked again, still getting fuel at schrader valve but still has air bubbles. When pressing the valve it sounds like it is farting fuel out.

If you have identified fuel pump relay, unplug it. The have someone just turn on key. Should hear main relay click in. It is number 9, see attached pages.

I came across this page for troubleshooting the P1230 code: DTC-P1230 FUEL PUMP RELAY LOW VOLTAGE

I am suspectting main relay is not coming on first.

[quote=ruffram;270962]Ok so I messed with it some more tonight. Disconnected MAF both 02's and of course still pops the fuse soon as key is turned and still doesn't even try to start. Just cranks and cranks. I disconnected power to the ECM and turned the key and fuse still blows so ECM shouldn't be the problem. One other thing I noticed was the IAC valve stays on whenever the key is turned on. Sits there and vibrates and hums the whole time. I unplugged it, with hope something was wrong there, but fuse still pops and engine still doesn't start.quote]

ok, for future reference, a short to ground before the load will always blow the fuse..