Hey y’all, any suggestions to get the difficult bits of gasket off the surfaces? I’ve carefully (hopefully) razored what I can, but some pieces seem to be fused on there. Is it OK to use scotch brite pads on gasket surfaces? I used diesel, shop towels and scotch brite pads to clean up the area, but nothing really works for the remaining gasket. I have a heat gun and stuff like brake cleaner, simple green, mineral spirits, brass brushes - will any of that work safely to help remove the gasket pieces? Is there anything I can use to spray down the entire area behind the timing chain safely?

After all of this, I plan to do a few cooling system flushes with water, including pushing everything out the heater core. I can do an oil change soon after should I to get rid of any solvents and remaining debris, as well.

Should I use black high oil resistance silicone on both sides of the front cover gasket? I wouldn’t mind some extra insurance against leaking. I’m not sure if the gasket surfaces are perfect - hopefully they’re OK after the razor and scotch brite. I tried to be careful and I don’t see any gnarly stuff after, but can’t be sure. I know this gasket is supposed to go on dry or with some tacking, but I think I’m paranoid and trust the silicone to help with whatever I might’ve screwed up.

Dows the engine view itself look OK? Anything I should spray up into it while it’s open? I tried to keep it clean, but might’ve got a bit of dust and such in there. Also the bell housing - does it look OK? I see some rust. If there’s any kind of process (like spray it with A, then spray it with B) please let me know what to do. Should I use black silicone on either side of the sump gasket?

Does the gasket surface on the block where the sump attaches look pitted? It might be the leftover stuff from the gasket… Should I scotch brite it with diesel?

Also, which sensor is down by the starter? I think I’ll clean it and then use electronic contact cleaner since it’s really oily.

Just wondering if the blue paint on the front of the engine means anything? This is an 03 within the VIN for the oil pump issue. Maybe it’s a replacement engine? Not important, please help answer the other questions


This is where I am in the job currently - removed timing chain, cleaned with diesel, shop towels, scotch brite


Stubborn bits of gasket


Pretty clean here - used diesel, shop towels, scotch brite


Anything I can safely spray up into the block to clean it a bit if needed? I’m trying to keep dust out, but some might have got in while doing all this.


Do these surfaces (engine block where it connects to sump) look pitted or is that the old gasket that left marks that just look like pitting? Any suggestions?


Trying to keep this clean, but might’ve got some dust in there. Any suggestions? Some sludgy oil from the sump got in right at the edges - I’ll try to get that out.


Which sensor is this? It looks pretty oily - not sure if that’s causing issues. I can clean it then use electronic contact cleaner.

 

Scotchbrite won’t hurt anything but you may need a bit more help than that. I would use a plastic scraper (keeping it sharp) on the aluminum instead of a razor knife. Heat will help. I wouldn’t spray anything into the engine.

 

Thanks, I was using a plastic razor, but it wasn’t really working other than the easy parts. I started using a metal razor and (green) scotch brite. I’m being careful, but I’m paranoid and I hope I’m not damaging anything. I know it says this gasket goes on dry, but someone told me they use black silicone on everything. Would that help or hurt things here? I’m not sure if the gasket surface is perfect after the razor and scotch brite. Would brake cleaner be OK to spray onto the front of the engine to clean it more or will it cause things like the cam and crank to rust? There’s debris from the scotch brite and shop towels that I want to blast off of there.

 

No razor blade unless needed, just to get big chunks off perhaps. Otherwise, this all day: https://amzn.to/3w5mBBd

 

Thanks, I’ll try to get some red scouring pads. I used green scotch brite - hope I didn’t do any damage. I scratched the surface a bit, but I’m planning to use the black high oil resistance silicone and pray it holds at torque specifications. I’ll use black silicone on the bolt threads too - a few threads back.

I removed just about everything, but the coolant port on the left was very tough. There’s still some black stuff on there and I think it’s adhesive. I’m going to see if a neighbor has acetone tomorrow. I know it’s hard to tell in these pictures, but if it looks like I’m on the wrong track with any of this, please let me know.

I’ll use brake cleaner to spray everything after and maybe an alcohol swab on the gasket surface. Afterward, I might spray the crank and cam from the front with WD40 just in case, then I’ll put the new chain on and turn the engine a few times by hand. I might tap the gears into place with a rubber mallet to be sure they’re all the way on when I know the chain is on correctly since it was tough to remove the chain - had to wiggle it around and finally it pulled off.

 

I definitely wouldn't put anything on the bolt threads. It not only skews your torque values for no benefit, it is going to be a pain to clean out someday if you ever find the need to access this again. What led you to put silicone on the bolt threads?

 

Well, I don’t want to misrepresent anyone and I might’ve misunderstood exactly what they meant, but someone who is well known and respected in this community told me they use silicone on everything. They have tons of experience though and they probably know how to remove silicone in bolt holes when they need to - maybe using some type of solvent and a brush on a drill. He swears a lot too. I could see if that helps but the neighbors were nearby today - grandma reading to her grandkids.

I was told that it helps keep bolts from rattling loose, which can cause things to begin leaking - and on gaskets, I think he meant he uses it just about everywhere to make sure everything seals well as an extra assurance. I like the idea since there’s no way I’m doing everything perfectly here and having some goop to help seal what I’ve scratched too much or haven’t tightened properly or is just bad from the factory or from time and wear helps feel like it’s all being held together properly. If it’s a big mistake to use black silicone (thin layer on each side of the front cover gasket) please let me know and I’ll just use tacking like in the AB video, but I know some people have more real world experience than what the book says, so I prefer to get advice here.