Return of the sloshing under dash question.
#11
03-06-2007, 12:33 PM
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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.
I was going to buy some type of engine flush and do that before pulling the heads. Will the ATF work best or is there a product made for it? Can you explain how to do it with ATF again? I know you just idle for about 30 mins but do you completely replace the oil with ATF or do you just add a quart or two? Iordered an oil pan gasket and oil pan bolt set. I'll probably just take all the greasyparts with me to the machine shop and have them cleaned. Thanks again.
#12
03-06-2007, 01:10 PM
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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.
6 qts. of ATF will out perform a 1 qt. bottle of engine flush, does a great job and can't hurt the engine. Just drain your engine leaving the old oil filter add the ATF and let it idle for at least 20 minutes, then drain and you're done.
Mike
Mike
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03-06-2007, 03:48 PM
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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.
I'm thinking about going one more step and rolling in some new rod bearings. I listened to the motor and I can hear a slight lower end knock. I'm guessing it's the rod bearings but should I do main bearings as well? What is the most common failure as far asthose go on these motors? I'd ratherget them taken care of now rather than spin one and have a mess later. What do you think?
#14
03-06-2007, 03:59 PM
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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.
ORIGINAL: 97DISCOIDAHO
I took it in and had the pressure test and block test done. It failed both... they said it was the #8 cylinder with the problem. I have ordered the gasket kit, new head bolts, and serpentine belt (mine is looking a little tired). I called the machine shop I've always used and he is saying best case senario I'll be about $100 to resurface the headsand worst case about $400 to rebuild the heads (for the pair). Is that a good price?
The mechanic I took it to for the tests is trying to tell me the head is cracked and that I have a bottom end knock (which I've never heard). [:@] These mechanics are a joke... they got all mad when I told them I just wanted to take the truck. They wanted to sell my a new engine! Whatever!!
Any advice on this job would be greatly appreciated... I'ts been about 12 years since I built an engine so I'm a bit rusty. I found the torque specs on atlanticbritish.com (that's where I ordered the parts). I've heard it's best to number the placement and direction of the push rods. Is there anything else I need to know?
Thanks in advance,
Erick
I took it in and had the pressure test and block test done. It failed both... they said it was the #8 cylinder with the problem. I have ordered the gasket kit, new head bolts, and serpentine belt (mine is looking a little tired). I called the machine shop I've always used and he is saying best case senario I'll be about $100 to resurface the headsand worst case about $400 to rebuild the heads (for the pair). Is that a good price?
The mechanic I took it to for the tests is trying to tell me the head is cracked and that I have a bottom end knock (which I've never heard). [:@] These mechanics are a joke... they got all mad when I told them I just wanted to take the truck. They wanted to sell my a new engine! Whatever!!
Any advice on this job would be greatly appreciated... I'ts been about 12 years since I built an engine so I'm a bit rusty. I found the torque specs on atlanticbritish.com (that's where I ordered the parts). I've heard it's best to number the placement and direction of the push rods. Is there anything else I need to know?
Thanks in advance,
Erick
#15
03-06-2007, 04:03 PM
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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.
ORIGINAL: 97DISCOIDAHO
I'm thinking about going one more step and rolling in some new rod bearings. I listened to the motor and I can hear a slight lower end knock. I'm guessing it's the rod bearings but should I do main bearings as well? What is the most common failure as far asthose go on these motors? I'd ratherget them taken care of now rather than spin one and have a mess later. What do you think?
I'm thinking about going one more step and rolling in some new rod bearings. I listened to the motor and I can hear a slight lower end knock. I'm guessing it's the rod bearings but should I do main bearings as well? What is the most common failure as far asthose go on these motors? I'd ratherget them taken care of now rather than spin one and have a mess later. What do you think?
#16
03-07-2007, 12:03 PM
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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.
Does anyone have the torque specs for the rod bolts and the main bolts? Also, any other torque specs would be great... I have the specs for the heads but I will also be removing everything on top to get to them. A list of torque specs would be great if anyone has it. Thanks.
#17
03-07-2007, 12:09 PM
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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.
98roverguy... I didn't see your post about waiting till after the ATF flush for the rod bearings. My original plan was to pull them all out and take them to the machine shop to be measured. I wonder what would be causing a knock that an ATF flush could fix?
#19
03-07-2007, 01:41 PM
RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.
For the rod bearings, if you go to the trouble to pull them out, you may be better off to just replace them.
Also for measuring, the way I've always done it is "in place" with the plastigauge stuff. I don't think you can take them somewhere to be measured -- they are measured using the actual rods and crank. You bolt it all up with the plastigauge, disassemble again, and then read the clearance using the width of the squashed plastigauge.
Same with the mains.
Torque instructions (for a D2 at least) rods: lightly oil bolts, torque to 15 ft. lb., then turn a further 80 degrees.
Mains: there's a two stage sequence of torque and the main caps have to be tightened in a specified order (20 bolts total). There's also a couple pages on dealing with the main seals. If you're going to do the mains, it would likely be worth it to get ahold of a shop manual.
Also for measuring, the way I've always done it is "in place" with the plastigauge stuff. I don't think you can take them somewhere to be measured -- they are measured using the actual rods and crank. You bolt it all up with the plastigauge, disassemble again, and then read the clearance using the width of the squashed plastigauge.
Same with the mains.
Torque instructions (for a D2 at least) rods: lightly oil bolts, torque to 15 ft. lb., then turn a further 80 degrees.
Mains: there's a two stage sequence of torque and the main caps have to be tightened in a specified order (20 bolts total). There's also a couple pages on dealing with the main seals. If you're going to do the mains, it would likely be worth it to get ahold of a shop manual.
#20
03-07-2007, 04:01 PM
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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.
Hi,
I will definately be doingan ATF engine flush. I am driving it this week to and from work (10 miles each way). I added some engine flushyesterday and Friday night I will flush it with ATF before starting the head job on Sat morning. I plan on throwing a cheap filter on for the ATF flush just because I don't know what this filter is going through with the engine flush. I now have my fingers crossed that the knock will go away... thanks for the advice! I purchased a digital downlad of the RAVE manual and now have all the torque specs. If anyone needs them I will post them with this message. Thanks again.
Crankshaft pulley bolt 270 Nm ........................ 200lbf.ft
Camshaft gear bolt 50 Nm .......................... 37lbf.ft
Camshaft thrust plate bolts 25 Nm .................... 18lbf.ft
Rocker cover bolts: +
Stage 1 4 Nm .................................. 3lbf.ft
Stage 2 8 Nm .................................. 6lbf.ft
Stage 3 - re-torque to: 8 Nm ....................... 6lbf.ft
Rocker shaft to cylinder head bolts 38 Nm .............. 28lbf.ft
Cylinder head bolts: +*
Stage 1 20 Nm ................................. 15lbf.ft
Stage 2 Then 90 degrees .................................
Stage 3 Further 90 degrees .................................
Lifting eye to cylinder head bolts 40 Nm ................ 30lbf.ft
Connecting rod bolts:
Stage 1 20 Nm .................................. 15lbf.ft
Stage 2 Further 80 degrees ..................................
Main bearing cap bolts - Nos. 1 to 8: +
Stage 1 - initial torque 13.5 Nm ....................... 10lbf.ft
Stage 2 - final torque 72 Nm ....................... 53lbf.ft
Rear main bearing cap bolts - Nos. 9 and 10: +
Stage 1 - initial torque 13.5 Nm ....................... 10lbf.ft
Stage 2 - final torque 92 Nm ....................... 68lbf.ft
Main bearing cap side bolts - Nos. 11 to 20: +
Stage 1 - initial torque 13.5 Nm ....................... 10lbf.ft
Stage 2 - final torque 45 Nm ....................... 33lbf.ft
Flywheel bolts 80 Nm .............................. 59lbf.ft
Drive plate assembly bolts 45 Nm ..................... 33lbf.ft
Drive plate hub aligner to crankshaft socket head
cap screws 85 Nm ................................. 63lbf.ft
Oil sump drain plug 45 Nm .......................... 33lbf.ft
Oil sump nuts and bolts + 23 Nm ..................... 17lbf.ft
Oil pump cover plate screws ** 4 Nm ................. 3lbf.ft
Oil pump cover plate bolt ** 8 Nm .................... 6lbf.ft
Spark plugs 20 Nm ................................ 15lbf.ft
Timing cover/coolant pump to cylinder block bolts
+22Nm ........................................ 16lbf.ft
Oil pick-up pipe to oil pump bolts 8 Nm ................ 6lbf.ft
Oil pick-up pipe nut 24 Nm .......................... 18lbf.ft
Knock sensors to cylinder block 16 Nm ................ 12lbf.ft
Camshaft sensor to timing cover bolt 8 Nm ............ 6lbf.ft
Crankshaft position sensor bolts 6 Nm ................ 4lbf.ft
Oil cooler connections 15 Nm ........................ 11lbf.ft
+ Tighten in sequence
* Lightly oil threads prior to assembly.
** Coat threads with Loctite 222 prior to
assembly.
I will definately be doingan ATF engine flush. I am driving it this week to and from work (10 miles each way). I added some engine flushyesterday and Friday night I will flush it with ATF before starting the head job on Sat morning. I plan on throwing a cheap filter on for the ATF flush just because I don't know what this filter is going through with the engine flush. I now have my fingers crossed that the knock will go away... thanks for the advice! I purchased a digital downlad of the RAVE manual and now have all the torque specs. If anyone needs them I will post them with this message. Thanks again.
Crankshaft pulley bolt 270 Nm ........................ 200lbf.ft
Camshaft gear bolt 50 Nm .......................... 37lbf.ft
Camshaft thrust plate bolts 25 Nm .................... 18lbf.ft
Rocker cover bolts: +
Stage 1 4 Nm .................................. 3lbf.ft
Stage 2 8 Nm .................................. 6lbf.ft
Stage 3 - re-torque to: 8 Nm ....................... 6lbf.ft
Rocker shaft to cylinder head bolts 38 Nm .............. 28lbf.ft
Cylinder head bolts: +*
Stage 1 20 Nm ................................. 15lbf.ft
Stage 2 Then 90 degrees .................................
Stage 3 Further 90 degrees .................................
Lifting eye to cylinder head bolts 40 Nm ................ 30lbf.ft
Connecting rod bolts:
Stage 1 20 Nm .................................. 15lbf.ft
Stage 2 Further 80 degrees ..................................
Main bearing cap bolts - Nos. 1 to 8: +
Stage 1 - initial torque 13.5 Nm ....................... 10lbf.ft
Stage 2 - final torque 72 Nm ....................... 53lbf.ft
Rear main bearing cap bolts - Nos. 9 and 10: +
Stage 1 - initial torque 13.5 Nm ....................... 10lbf.ft
Stage 2 - final torque 92 Nm ....................... 68lbf.ft
Main bearing cap side bolts - Nos. 11 to 20: +
Stage 1 - initial torque 13.5 Nm ....................... 10lbf.ft
Stage 2 - final torque 45 Nm ....................... 33lbf.ft
Flywheel bolts 80 Nm .............................. 59lbf.ft
Drive plate assembly bolts 45 Nm ..................... 33lbf.ft
Drive plate hub aligner to crankshaft socket head
cap screws 85 Nm ................................. 63lbf.ft
Oil sump drain plug 45 Nm .......................... 33lbf.ft
Oil sump nuts and bolts + 23 Nm ..................... 17lbf.ft
Oil pump cover plate screws ** 4 Nm ................. 3lbf.ft
Oil pump cover plate bolt ** 8 Nm .................... 6lbf.ft
Spark plugs 20 Nm ................................ 15lbf.ft
Timing cover/coolant pump to cylinder block bolts
+22Nm ........................................ 16lbf.ft
Oil pick-up pipe to oil pump bolts 8 Nm ................ 6lbf.ft
Oil pick-up pipe nut 24 Nm .......................... 18lbf.ft
Knock sensors to cylinder block 16 Nm ................ 12lbf.ft
Camshaft sensor to timing cover bolt 8 Nm ............ 6lbf.ft
Crankshaft position sensor bolts 6 Nm ................ 4lbf.ft
Oil cooler connections 15 Nm ........................ 11lbf.ft
+ Tighten in sequence
* Lightly oil threads prior to assembly.
** Coat threads with Loctite 222 prior to
assembly.