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I hate to be the devil on your shoulder (or in your wallet) but since you are taking your time and have it apart, you could put ARP studs in place of those head bolts, 1 at a time so you don't ruin the head gaskets. BULLETPROOF!
...well you have proven to be on point I must say; now back to "mechanic 101", you mean the four bolts I took out when removing the rocker assembly? if so, why would these ARP studs be better than the ones I took out? ...I must say, one of those gave me a hard time coming out and the head of the bolt suffered a bit. ;-]#
No there are ten of them. If you look down in the head you will see five. The other five are on the same level as the spark plugs. The rover head bolts are stretch bolts. You can replace them with studs that have nuts. In Ford and Chevy engines, that is part of "bulletproofing". The studs have better clamping force.
They can be replaced in the same order as bolts are put in without removing or replacing the head gaskets. Since you already have the head bolts exposed it would take an hour or two at most.
The bolts are supposedly not re usable. I've re used them with no ill effects two years later. The studs are designed to be reusable.
No there are ten of them. If you look down in the head you will see five. The other five are on the same level as the spark plugs. The rover head bolts are stretch bolts. You can replace them with studs that have nuts. In Ford and Chevy engines, that is part of "bulletproofing". The studs have better clamping force.
They can be replaced in the same order as bolts are put in without removing or replacing the head gaskets. Since you already have the head bolts exposed it would take an hour or two at most.
The bolts are supposedly not re usable. I've re used them with no ill effects two years later. The studs are designed to be reusable.
...thanks CHARLIE_V, I better understand where you're getting at, and it sure seems a good thing to do, but now I may not have the time, nor the money for those ARB suckers ...my wife's 2004 C320 started startling, jerking and rattling when shifting gears in very low speeds -bad timing- and will take it early morning to have it checked, can't afford having both cars in the pits; after that gotta hustle back to finish the Landy and getting it back to the road. I'm hoping. As per the bolts I took out, I was planning on reusing them, but that one with the head a bit beaten, I would prefer to replace, so I'm hoping I can get them at a Home Depot, or I should find them in a different place?
Last edited by adolfojbonilla; 06-04-2016 at 01:38 PM.
...finally both "rocker shafts" went back in without a problem, and tightened them to spec (40 Nm / 30 lbf.ft), but I must say it didn't feel as tight as I found them when taking them out.
Only installed the RH cover, I'll try to better clean the LH side one tomorrow before putting it back in. Also tightened it to spec (8 Nm / 6 lbf.ft) - I hope- and applied some thread locker to them too. But I did have an issue with one of the bolts, didn't hear the click and ended up breaking it, fortunately was able to remove it without much problem, but had to use one of the old ones for now, or until I get a fresh new set. These are better to just hand-tighten them, to be on the safe side, and by adding some thread locker, I guess you would be safer preventing them to loosen up easily. Anyways, now I know these are some bolts that need some checking every now and then.
Also attached the heater hose to the matrix, and hoping to put an end tomorrow to "the heater pipe situation", when I hook that sucker up and fasten it in place, will be the moment of truth.
BTW, I'm using 8mm Kingsborne wires, and they do not fit easily on the actual wire retainers fastened to the side of the covers or the ones by the firewall, has anyone changed theirs? if so, which did you use and where did you get them from? would like to have them nicely put in place.
Another question, between the engine and the firewall, right at the RH Rocker cover, there is the thing to lift the engine, behind that I see a hard plastic tubing, just like the ones widely used on these trucks that are bent in two loops; one end seems to be fastened or held somewhere I cannot see, the other is opened and pointing down, any idea what this tubing might be for or do? in the pics attached you'll see it.
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Below pics of the progress...
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Pop quiz Hotshot. Before I put the intake back on, is there something I should spray in here to clean it up, or should I just leave it alone? Also catches my attention that the four towards the front are darker than the four rear ones... "The dark side clouds everything. Impossible to see the future is." ...What do you do? What do you do?
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As Yoda would say... "Smaller in number are we, but larger in mind." ;-]#
Last edited by adolfojbonilla; 06-04-2016 at 09:57 PM.
...thanks for your response XCELLER8! ...something in particular I should use to clean them up? ;-]#
That going to be oil residue that comes from the valve cover breather hoses, probably. I think it is curious that the front four are darker than the back, but I don't know why.
I have used copper coat gasket compound (spray) on my plenum gasket but it leaves a mess when you split the upper and lower intakes again.
I've just sprayed my intakw tubes with the all purpose, get it donex clean it off, miracle brake cleaner and that gets them pretty clean but you would want to do that off the truck or you will be blowing stuff down to the valves. If you had the right sized round wire brush, and it was flexible, the best solution would be to scrape as much loose as possible then douse it with brake cleaner or gasoline, but, again, with the lower intake off the truck.
That going to be oil residue that comes from the valve cover breather hoses, probably. I think it is curious that the front four are darker than the back, but I don't know why.
I have used copper coat gasket compound (spray) on my plenum gasket but it leaves a mess when you split the upper and lower intakes again.
I've just sprayed my intakw tubes with the all purpose, get it donex clean it off, miracle brake cleaner and that gets them pretty clean but you would want to do that off the truck or you will be blowing stuff down to the valves. If you had the right sized round wire brush, and it was flexible, the best solution would be to scrape as much loose as possible then douse it with brake cleaner or gasoline, but, again, with the lower intake off the truck.
...thanks Charlie_V! ...I'll leave it as is for now then, I'm not planning on unbolting any more in this episode for cleaning; I'll leave that for "the lower intake situation" part of this "Pulp Fiction [Reality]" ...I'll seek enlightenment as to why the four front ones are darker than the rear ones though! ;-]#
Last edited by adolfojbonilla; 06-05-2016 at 05:54 AM.
Wow the typos I leave are shocking. I'm always using my phone and can barely see the screen. Sorry. I am glad you could make any sense of what I typed.
Wow the typos I leave are shocking. I'm always using my phone and can barely see the screen. Sorry. I am glad you could make any sense of what I typed.
...don't sweat it CHARLIE_V! this is a LR Forum, not grammar police, and you do make sense, if not I'll be asking further! ;-]#
06-03-2016, 09:36 PM
...well you have proven to be on point I must say; now back to "mechanic 101", you mean the four bolts I took out when removing the rocker assembly? if so, why would these ARP studs be better than the ones I took out? ...I must say, one of those gave me a hard time coming out and the head of the bolt suffered a bit. ;-]#
