I'm in the process of changing head gaskets in my 2000 Disco II. Got all eight of them loose save for the easiest ones, bolt # 8 and 10 in the sequence. When I tried these the edges of the bolt started rounding off. Anybody out there who had success with dealing with a similar problem? Thanks.
Ed

 

Try everything you can to take it out and replace it. You gotta torque those puppies good so if its rounded your not gonna be able to get it in there to specs. Also when you go to put the new one in get a nice swivel socket or whatever you need so you dont round it off again. Good luck!!

 

I re-read and now see what your sayin. You could try filing the sides of the bolt and then usinga smaller socket to get it out. Soak it in that lube for bolts but then dry the head with brake cleaner. Last resort is the old tap and die set, which I hope doesn't come to that. Just hang in there. Remember you need to replace all your head bolts anyway so don't worry about destroyin it to get it out.

 

I was contemplating on dremeling the sides down to 15mm size and giving it a go. As a last resort, I could grind the bolt head down altogether and then lift the head. The remaining bolt shaft shouldn't be difficult to get out since it will be destressed. Thinking about it, it was the last 2 bolts ( and the easiest ones no less ) that I'm had trouble with. I used Craftmans' brand. I think the socket had something to do with it, meaning the points losing their edge. I already bought Snap On impact16mm swivel sockets and will used that for the other side. Thanks 98roverguy.
Ed

 

Got more rounded bolt heads on the right side. Using new impact sockets. The engine has got to come out. I'm getting it remanufactured.
I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Ed

 

Why pull the engine and even more so why have it rebuilt, you don't have enough wear on it to justify that sort of expense.
Alsi, If you are using an impact wrench to loosen the head bolts stop it and use a large rachet with a 12 or 18" breaker bar, once loose then use your impact.
Mike

 

Mike

Getting a little frustrated. On the left head which is in need of the gasket, I got the 8 bolts off. 2 bolt heads I had to grind down since the bolt heads rounded off (using a 1/2 inch socket
and breaker bar). On the right head, the third bolt I loosened rounded its head. That side the head gasket is still good. That bolt is in a horrible position for me to grind down. I'll probably retighten the 2 loose bolt (using new head bolts) and skip doing the right head gasket. I'll just proceed changing the left head gasket. The 2 bolt studs (without the heads) should come
off easily since there no tension on the shaft.This option is probably my most viable one in keeping my LR going. When the right head gasket goes bad, I'll reconsider my options then. P.S. it took me 4 hours to grind the 2 bolt heads down. That 3rd bolt that rounded its head bummed me out.

The bolts for the engine head are supposed to be torque 15 ft.lb. then turned an additional 180 degrees. To get them off, I used a 1/2 inch drive (18 inch long) breaker bar plus a pipe to extend the effective bar length. Took 2 of us to crack those bolts loose. I estimate applying over 70 ft.lb. of torque easily.

Sometimes you just need to step back and try to think your way through.

Thanks.

Ed

 

Go to sears they make a nut/ bolt remover socket , it's hardened and you hit it down on the rounded bolt and it has teeth that "bite" into the bolt ... Those have saved me many many times ....
If those fail then you might have to drill out and use an easy out

 

Finally got the L head off. It was a bear to get out cause the 2 longer bolt heads that I had to grind off acted as a long dowel. I couldn't pull the head over the bolt shafts (the aft end of the head hitting the firewall). I had to pull the head off as far as possible, reach between the head and cylinder block and unscrew the bolt far enough so the when I moved the head against the cylinders the bolt stud now protruded from the head.
Only then was I able to removed the bolt stud. If this had happened to a shorter head bolt, I don't think it would have been a problem.

Started cleaning everything with kerosene. Got some carbon inside one of the valve and its not moving smooth.
Per manual there is a reamer that one could pass into the valve guides. Any idea where I could get one?

Thanks fire1427 for the tip. If I could get one of those I'll try again on the the R head.

BTW I was using a 12 pt 16mm socket (1/2 in drive). I might be better off using a standard 6 pt. socket. Just a hunch.

Ed

 

You should have used a six point for sure. As for the valves, based on what you have described, you better get that other head off and get them both over to a good machine shop.
Rover was known tho have an issue with carbon build up on their valve which requires replacing the valve guides and seal, this should be done and repaired if necessary.
Mike