Runs too cold in the winter with new dorman fan
#41
If the thermostat is open removing a hose & a look inside will tell you instantly. Or like I’ve mentioned before boil the darn thing and watch it while holding an IR temp gun to monitor temps (it will not melt in the pot of water on the stove). I would certainly boil the new one to verify operation vs finding out it’s the wrong temp range (typical with the generic unit from Lucky8).
#42
that's what I think too...
I had a saab that did this. I changed the stat and it did the same thing. You could coast in neutral down hills and gets the temps into 120's I used to do it all the time. it would heat normally while driving but when you wanted to lower the temps going down a hill, just coast. I never could figure it out.
This rover is extreme however...this is better than the inline mod.
I had a saab that did this. I changed the stat and it did the same thing. You could coast in neutral down hills and gets the temps into 120's I used to do it all the time. it would heat normally while driving but when you wanted to lower the temps going down a hill, just coast. I never could figure it out.
This rover is extreme however...this is better than the inline mod.
PO126????
If it was “defective” it would stay closed & you would be running hot. Seriously doubt it’s defective, but at least Lucky8 is sending you another one. However Lucky8 does NOT sell the Britpart 180F thermostat marked at 78C. They sell a generic knock off that comes in bubble wrap. It is supposed to come in a Britpart box.
Your problem is you’ve got to much cold air going thru the radiator, and the thermostat is opening/closing, opening/closing, opening/closing, and opening/closing rapidly. That is why with SAI you’re getting the P0126 fault. Your engine is not reaching warm up temp soon enough.
Either slap in a stock temp thermostat, standard duty fan clutch, or block off “some” airflow.
If it was “defective” it would stay closed & you would be running hot. Seriously doubt it’s defective, but at least Lucky8 is sending you another one. However Lucky8 does NOT sell the Britpart 180F thermostat marked at 78C. They sell a generic knock off that comes in bubble wrap. It is supposed to come in a Britpart box.
Your problem is you’ve got to much cold air going thru the radiator, and the thermostat is opening/closing, opening/closing, opening/closing, and opening/closing rapidly. That is why with SAI you’re getting the P0126 fault. Your engine is not reaching warm up temp soon enough.
Either slap in a stock temp thermostat, standard duty fan clutch, or block off “some” airflow.
#43
That's all that scantool said?? No actual code? I'm sure it's P0126, but that can be due to all sorts of things. IR Temp gun would pinpoint a stuck thermostat easily as the temp before/after the thermostat would be the same.
I've been messing with LR's since I was 15, and Bosch P38/D2's ever since they were made. In all the years of P38/D2 I've had 1 single thermostat that was stuck open. It was not due to a mechanical failure, but more due the owner mixing Dexcool & Green Coolant together. The entire cooling system looked like a science experiment gone horribly wrong. Gutted that D2 like a fish, replaced the radiator, waterpump, heater core, all the hoses, and the thermostat. Also had to do a HG job. I held onto the OEM LR thermostat and tore it open. Dumped it into a pot of boiling water and once it could actually move and get to temp vs being surrounded by goo it opened and closed.
That is the only thermostat in all my years that acted up. Now thermostats not opening at the proper temp = all comes down to the manufacturer and labeling them correctly. Seen plenty of GM thermostats mis-marked and plenty of Freelander/D2 el cheapo's mis-marked. However they did open/close just not at the sold temps.
I've been messing with LR's since I was 15, and Bosch P38/D2's ever since they were made. In all the years of P38/D2 I've had 1 single thermostat that was stuck open. It was not due to a mechanical failure, but more due the owner mixing Dexcool & Green Coolant together. The entire cooling system looked like a science experiment gone horribly wrong. Gutted that D2 like a fish, replaced the radiator, waterpump, heater core, all the hoses, and the thermostat. Also had to do a HG job. I held onto the OEM LR thermostat and tore it open. Dumped it into a pot of boiling water and once it could actually move and get to temp vs being surrounded by goo it opened and closed.
That is the only thermostat in all my years that acted up. Now thermostats not opening at the proper temp = all comes down to the manufacturer and labeling them correctly. Seen plenty of GM thermostats mis-marked and plenty of Freelander/D2 el cheapo's mis-marked. However they did open/close just not at the sold temps.
#45
Running the 180F thermostat will set the P0126 fairly easy as the ECU is looking for OEM 190F. The P0126 is triggered 99% of the time with an SAI equipped D2. Non SAI equipped D2's don't have the extra temp sensor so it's less sensitive.
That fault being triggered does NOT mean you have a stuck/sticking thermostat. It just means the ECU preset warm up temp range has not been reached fast enough.
I own 3 D2's 99 Non SAI, 02 Non SAI, and an 04 SAI. All 3 have the same cooling config (Hayden 2991/Dorman 620-112 and a 180F thermostat). The 04 will set the P0126 fairly easy. Nothing is wrong my thermostat at all.
The 180F is labeled as a hot climate thermostat. If it runs cooler than the ECU is setup for switch back to OEM temp range or do like all the truckers in the USA do during the winter and limit "some" airflow to the radiator to compensate for the cold winter air passing thru the radiator.
That fault being triggered does NOT mean you have a stuck/sticking thermostat. It just means the ECU preset warm up temp range has not been reached fast enough.
I own 3 D2's 99 Non SAI, 02 Non SAI, and an 04 SAI. All 3 have the same cooling config (Hayden 2991/Dorman 620-112 and a 180F thermostat). The 04 will set the P0126 fairly easy. Nothing is wrong my thermostat at all.
The 180F is labeled as a hot climate thermostat. If it runs cooler than the ECU is setup for switch back to OEM temp range or do like all the truckers in the USA do during the winter and limit "some" airflow to the radiator to compensate for the cold winter air passing thru the radiator.
Last edited by Best4x4; 01-15-2020 at 07:46 PM.
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