I just seafoamed the intake, and my neighbors are pissed. On the other hand, I knew there was an exhaust leak, but I had no idea it was that bad. It came out of BOTH connections to the Y. This truck had the engine replaced at 50K under warranty, and I guess the dealer didn't get the y tight. I am sure the gaskets are gone now...

To those of you considering it, Seafoam works great to clean out your intake, I used it in my tank, every other tank five times. This alone got my #7 injector working again. I feel bad for the guy only getting 9 mpg. Mine was when I got it, but plugs, wires, Seafoam, and RP Synthetic though the whole truck, and I got 18.2 going to Dallas last weekend. I can not believe it.

Now I am off to apologize to everyone one the block. That was a lot of smoke...

 

It really worked that well, I read alot of good things about it on this forum, but my mechanic told me not to do it, he said you shouldn't put anything in the engine they don't in the factory. I think I would like to do it. Did it increase your mileage? How exactly did you put it in, where is the intake? Just to make shure. Thanks

 

I haven't run it long enough to check mileage. I started out just running it in the gas. It clecns the injectors, and will get to the intake over time. I just had a can left over. I followed the directions on the can... just find a vacuum hose that will feed the intake, and put it in the can. I used about 1/3 can. Once it is in, shut it off, let it soak for 5 minutes, and fire it up. It smokes beacause of the treatment. But it loosens the deposits inside. Using it in the fuel tank will do this too, I just wanted to try the direct intake method. It says it will smoke, and it will. They aren't lying.

My Disco had serious neglect problems when I got it. Some guy gave it to his kid and he trashed it. Tuning up the engine, using the tank treatments and switching over to full synthetics all helped equally on mileage. I am just happy my check engine light has been off for 2 months now.

 

Okaydiscoguy, those exhaust gaskets are an easy DIY replacement. In reply post I made to Darover earlier this week, I'd suggested he make surethat hisleakwasn't coming froma crack at the y-pipe's flange. Mine cracked severely. Since it's right under the gasket, it can often look and feel like it's coming from the gasket itself. Best way to check is to do a cold-start, reach down and feel around that connection for the leak before the pipes heat up. Run your finger along the connection (where the gasket is) and then feel the underside of that connection......where the nuts on the y-pipe flanges are. Wherever the leak is coming from.....you'll feel the exhaust escaping.

 

Thanks for the tip. The manifold is ok, it was replaced 50K miles ago. I have read most of the TSB's and checked the records I have....they are good to 90K,( then the kid got it...)There is one out on this manifold., but after looking at it, it doesn't look cracked. The Y looks good too.I am saving up to put new cats on, and I will just have it all done at the same time. They will probably take the y off to weld anyways, might as well just wait.

Oh, and I noticed today that I am holding 70MPH at 2500K RPM before it was 2600. That has to equate out to mileage. It is also smooth as ever. It is warmer here, and that might have something to do with it, but the power gain explains it better. Acceleration in park is flawless. It sputtered a little before. I am a very happy Rover owner right now.

 

Sounds like you can kill a couple of birds with one stone re: the cats and gaskets. If, by chance, you do find any cracks in the y-pipe, the shop can alsoweld those up when doing the cats. You going with the Magnaflow/Carsounds?

Also sounds like the Seafoam did the trick for you. If you haven't already, I'd suggest doing an oil and filter change pretty quickly after a big-time Seafoam treatment. If you suspect the truck had a lot of build up, and it's never been flushed before, you could have freed up a lot of junk. You want to get those carbon deposits and debris out of the bloodstream ASAP. I've seen substantial amountsof debris caught in an oil filter after an Auto RX treatment (and some large pieces at that).If there's enough of it, that debriscan restrict oil flow via clogging up the filter and/or pan sump.

 

Yeah, I am going with the magnaflows. Can't wait to get em on and see if she growls a little.

I only did the intake with Seafoam. I am almost to 8k on my oil, so I might flush with tranny fluid before I change. Oh, and before anyone freaks out, I do an oil analysis evey 2000 miles to check that everything is ok. I run RP with WIX filters and do extended drains. It sounds like I am going to need to drop the pan on this one. Looking under the oil cap, there is some build up, and even though the motor only has 90K on it, it will probably throw off a lot of junk. Anyone think it will be ok without dropping the pan??

 

I think you're probably okay without dropping the pan. If there's some other reason to justify the effort (i.e., leaking gasket, etc.), it can't hurt to clean it out.

I'm also runnig RP. It's great oil andyou can definitely get away with running it for a longer duration.

The Magnaflow's definitely add a little growl.....they did to my car at least. Unfortunately,theyprobablywon't do much in the power category on the Rover (withouta lot of other complimentary mods).If nothing else, they may contribute to slightly better mileage.

 

As dirty/rich as the Rovers engines run, I would never suggest anyone go to 8000 mile oil changes, it will cost you in the long run.
Even with a good full synthetic, your cranks will have more gas in it then you want and shouldn't exceed 5000 oil changes.
Might also look at the K&N 3001 oil filter, work really well on Rovers.
Mike

 

ok, I will cut out the extended drains. I have not seen anything out of the ordinary on the analysis, but cutting back to 5K won't hurt. I get the oil cheap anyway. Does the K&N do a lot better than the WIX?