Send some suspension advice -- Keep me busy during this insane quarantine period
#1
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Well, since most on NY is stuck indoors... Seems an opportune time to get parts on the disco.
I have a 2001 Disco 2 All Original. Got it from the original owner. Less than 80k miles on it.
I am trying to order a Voyager fat tube ladder and overlander rack, but they seem to be very slow in answering my emails or even requests for purchase... I digress...
Here is what I am thinking. Please give me any advice you see fit.
OME 2" kit from Lucky8 with HD Springs
OME Steering Damper from Lucky 8
Heavy Duty yellow shock towers from RoversNorth
Is there anything else I am missing? New hardware? Any reason to also purchase the metal securing ring instead of the stock isolators?
Any additional steering components?
Happy quarantine! Be well. -A
I have a 2001 Disco 2 All Original. Got it from the original owner. Less than 80k miles on it.
I am trying to order a Voyager fat tube ladder and overlander rack, but they seem to be very slow in answering my emails or even requests for purchase... I digress...
Here is what I am thinking. Please give me any advice you see fit.
OME 2" kit from Lucky8 with HD Springs
OME Steering Damper from Lucky 8
Heavy Duty yellow shock towers from RoversNorth
Is there anything else I am missing? New hardware? Any reason to also purchase the metal securing ring instead of the stock isolators?
Any additional steering components?
Happy quarantine! Be well. -A
#2
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Are your stock shock towers damaged or rusty? If they are in good shape I'm not convinced it's worth the money. I wouldn't run the metal securing ring unless you need relocation cones in the front. Now can you get the yellow towers with a 2" lowered mounting point? If that's possible then yea I'd go to them. With a two inch lift and lowering the shock mount you can gain a good amount of droop with little to no negative effects. Just depends on your plans for your vehicle.
#3
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One more thing... and not to open up pandora box here.... but I obviously will want a slightly larger tire to fill the gap. I will be 80% on the road, 15% beach, 5% bush.
What do you suggest considering everything is currently stock and the only changes (planned so far, unless you suggest more) are the changes listed above. Thanks.
Also with the shock towers: Are you suggesting to get 2 inch lower because thay raises the front more? What is its benefit exactly?
What do you suggest considering everything is currently stock and the only changes (planned so far, unless you suggest more) are the changes listed above. Thanks.
Also with the shock towers: Are you suggesting to get 2 inch lower because thay raises the front more? What is its benefit exactly?
#4
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with a 2in lift a 265/75/16 KO2 is a nice tire option. Some minor rubbing at full lock yet still allows you air down when off pavement and has good road manners and does well in snow.
Dropping the shocking mount point will not lift the vehicle any (springs are responsible for the "lifting") but it will allow the front axle to drop further. The goal being to keep tires in contact with the ground in cross axle situations and avoid lifting a tire. You will still have an adequate amount of up travel with the set up described in original post. The 2" lift is a lift spring and those shocks are the same travel as stock (I could be slightly off on the shock travel length) so by dropping the mounting point you are actually keeping the same amount of flex as the stock set up. Vs lifting the vehicle and not putting in longer shocks you would actually lose some usable articulation. The lower mount route is a great way to utilize cheaper stock length shocks while not compromising anything.
Sorry that kind of started to ramble as I hadn't really thought through it fully until now. Let me know if that makes sense or have more questions.
Dropping the shocking mount point will not lift the vehicle any (springs are responsible for the "lifting") but it will allow the front axle to drop further. The goal being to keep tires in contact with the ground in cross axle situations and avoid lifting a tire. You will still have an adequate amount of up travel with the set up described in original post. The 2" lift is a lift spring and those shocks are the same travel as stock (I could be slightly off on the shock travel length) so by dropping the mounting point you are actually keeping the same amount of flex as the stock set up. Vs lifting the vehicle and not putting in longer shocks you would actually lose some usable articulation. The lower mount route is a great way to utilize cheaper stock length shocks while not compromising anything.
Sorry that kind of started to ramble as I hadn't really thought through it fully until now. Let me know if that makes sense or have more questions.
#6
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with a 2in lift a 265/75/16 KO2 is a nice tire option. Some minor rubbing at full lock yet still allows you air down when off pavement and has good road manners and does well in snow.
Dropping the shocking mount point will not lift the vehicle any (springs are responsible for the "lifting") but it will allow the front axle to drop further. The goal being to keep tires in contact with the ground in cross axle situations and avoid lifting a tire. You will still have an adequate amount of up travel with the set up described in original post. The 2" lift is a lift spring and those shocks are the same travel as stock (I could be slightly off on the shock travel length) so by dropping the mounting point you are actually keeping the same amount of flex as the stock set up. Vs lifting the vehicle and not putting in longer shocks you would actually lose some usable articulation. The lower mount route is a great way to utilize cheaper stock length shocks while not compromising anything.
Sorry that kind of started to ramble as I hadn't really thought through it fully until now. Let me know if that makes sense or have more questions.
Dropping the shocking mount point will not lift the vehicle any (springs are responsible for the "lifting") but it will allow the front axle to drop further. The goal being to keep tires in contact with the ground in cross axle situations and avoid lifting a tire. You will still have an adequate amount of up travel with the set up described in original post. The 2" lift is a lift spring and those shocks are the same travel as stock (I could be slightly off on the shock travel length) so by dropping the mounting point you are actually keeping the same amount of flex as the stock set up. Vs lifting the vehicle and not putting in longer shocks you would actually lose some usable articulation. The lower mount route is a great way to utilize cheaper stock length shocks while not compromising anything.
Sorry that kind of started to ramble as I hadn't really thought through it fully until now. Let me know if that makes sense or have more questions.
EDIT -- Never mind -- In reading all these posts on here... it does look like I'd have to consider brake lines, abs extendors, steering components... I think that's a bit over board.
What I will say is this: I am purchasing a voyager over lander roof rack and rear access ladder. I don't have steel bumpers yet. Not sure if/when I'll get those, as I primarily would do more beach driving than rough terrain. Does anyone have the 2" OME kit with HD springs? How does it ride?
Last edited by DISCOFETA; 03-31-2020 at 05:05 PM.
#8
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with a 2in lift a 265/75/16 KO2 is a nice tire option. Some minor rubbing at full lock yet still allows you air down when off pavement and has good road manners and does well in snow.
Dropping the shocking mount point will not lift the vehicle any (springs are responsible for the "lifting") but it will allow the front axle to drop further. The goal being to keep tires in contact with the ground in cross axle situations and avoid lifting a tire. You will still have an adequate amount of up travel with the set up described in original post. The 2" lift is a lift spring and those shocks are the same travel as stock (I could be slightly off on the shock travel length) so by dropping the mounting point you are actually keeping the same amount of flex as the stock set up. Vs lifting the vehicle and not putting in longer shocks you would actually lose some usable articulation. The lower mount route is a great way to utilize cheaper stock length shocks while not compromising anything.
Sorry that kind of started to ramble as I hadn't really thought through it fully until now. Let me know if that makes sense or have more questions.
Dropping the shocking mount point will not lift the vehicle any (springs are responsible for the "lifting") but it will allow the front axle to drop further. The goal being to keep tires in contact with the ground in cross axle situations and avoid lifting a tire. You will still have an adequate amount of up travel with the set up described in original post. The 2" lift is a lift spring and those shocks are the same travel as stock (I could be slightly off on the shock travel length) so by dropping the mounting point you are actually keeping the same amount of flex as the stock set up. Vs lifting the vehicle and not putting in longer shocks you would actually lose some usable articulation. The lower mount route is a great way to utilize cheaper stock length shocks while not compromising anything.
Sorry that kind of started to ramble as I hadn't really thought through it fully until now. Let me know if that makes sense or have more questions.
Out of the two -- Which would be better for the every day driving?
#9
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#10
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If I went with the shorter shock towers (I have found these RTE so far https://rtefab.com/product/gen-2-fro...-shock-towers/) Feel free to share others if you know of any..
Would I need to consider any other steering components or hardware? Technically, a shorter tower will drop the drive shaft lower, right?
Also in general -- how off will my speedometer be with the 265/75/16 KO2 with the 2" OME HD suspension kit (I think these are BFGoodwrich if I remember correctly)
Thanks guys! This forum kicks ***.
Would I need to consider any other steering components or hardware? Technically, a shorter tower will drop the drive shaft lower, right?
Also in general -- how off will my speedometer be with the 265/75/16 KO2 with the 2" OME HD suspension kit (I think these are BFGoodwrich if I remember correctly)
Thanks guys! This forum kicks ***.