Send some suspension advice -- Keep me busy during this insane quarantine period
#11
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Lucky8 carries some terrafirma dropped mounts if I remember correctly. Might have to call them to confirm as their website doesn't always have everything on there that they carry.
A shorter tower will not have any effect on where the driveshaft is. The springs determine the height and the shocks basically just slow down/control quick movement transmitted through the tire.
Speedometer will be off a few MPH worse at higher speeds than lower. I don't remember exactly how much it is any more. I want to say the 255/85/16 is a slightly taller tire and a little narrower. If you are running on the beaches the majority of the off pavement time I'd go with the wider tire as your contact patch is larger and that only gets better when you air down. Either way the 255 or 265 is going to hurt your gas mileage probably the same amount (also not sure why everyone is concerned with MPG as they aren't good to begin with so as you approach 10mpg or lower who cares, just go have fun).
A shorter tower will not have any effect on where the driveshaft is. The springs determine the height and the shocks basically just slow down/control quick movement transmitted through the tire.
Speedometer will be off a few MPH worse at higher speeds than lower. I don't remember exactly how much it is any more. I want to say the 255/85/16 is a slightly taller tire and a little narrower. If you are running on the beaches the majority of the off pavement time I'd go with the wider tire as your contact patch is larger and that only gets better when you air down. Either way the 255 or 265 is going to hurt your gas mileage probably the same amount (also not sure why everyone is concerned with MPG as they aren't good to begin with so as you approach 10mpg or lower who cares, just go have fun).
#12
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OK So far I am considering this:
Again, I will be riding 80% road, 15% beach, 5% bush... The other open questions I have so far are
- 2" Old Man Emu Suspension Kit from Lucky8 with HD springs
- Old Man Emu Steering Dampener
- Front Shock Towers
- If I go with standard size, I'll pick up these Yellow Competition Heavy Duty ProLine from RoversNorth
- If i go with the shorter -2" shock tower it is these from WILDBEAR
- Stainless Brake Lines for precaution and just an overall upgrade there
- BFGoodwrich 265/75/16 KO2 tires
Again, I will be riding 80% road, 15% beach, 5% bush... The other open questions I have so far are
- Should I consider the polybush bushing kit upgrade? Anyone notice an improvement in the ride with these? I see one here: https://www.roverparts.com/steering/kits/9781/
- Should I bother with new Isolators? I noticed the kits from AB come with them. Is this something necessary to replace?
- For the rears -- how necessary is it to get cones and the D1 Seats?
- What other steering or undercarriage components should I consider here?
#13
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Looks like a good list and stainless steel brake lines are a great idea. While installing everything pull the abs lines from their mounting points so the wires just hang free (will make sense when looking at it) and that will free up a slack on those lines.
Poly bushings could be worth it if you end up chasing a clunk or noise down when everything is done. I guess if you have a press at home and a glutton for punishment go for it. New isolators just depends on the condition of your existing ones. D1 seats and cones are definitely not needed at a 2" lift.
Might be worth upgrading steering bars and an adjustable panhard bar that way you get everything aligned all at once when done.
Poly bushings could be worth it if you end up chasing a clunk or noise down when everything is done. I guess if you have a press at home and a glutton for punishment go for it. New isolators just depends on the condition of your existing ones. D1 seats and cones are definitely not needed at a 2" lift.
Might be worth upgrading steering bars and an adjustable panhard bar that way you get everything aligned all at once when done.
#14
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Looks like a good list and stainless steel brake lines are a great idea. While installing everything pull the abs lines from their mounting points so the wires just hang free (will make sense when looking at it) and that will free up a slack on those lines.
Poly bushings could be worth it if you end up chasing a clunk or noise down when everything is done. I guess if you have a press at home and a glutton for punishment go for it. New isolators just depends on the condition of your existing ones. D1 seats and cones are definitely not needed at a 2" lift.
Might be worth upgrading steering bars and an adjustable panhard bar that way you get everything aligned all at once when done.
Poly bushings could be worth it if you end up chasing a clunk or noise down when everything is done. I guess if you have a press at home and a glutton for punishment go for it. New isolators just depends on the condition of your existing ones. D1 seats and cones are definitely not needed at a 2" lift.
Might be worth upgrading steering bars and an adjustable panhard bar that way you get everything aligned all at once when done.
No clunk... Just was wondering if it really is worth it, if the bushing really improve the comfort of the ride...
As for the other two -- upgrading the steering bars and an adjustable panhard -- can you send links? How will the panhard benefit?
Yes... making a survival truck in case the world is in fact coming to an end...
On that front -- Voyager just told me they will take at least 4 weeks to ship
![Frown](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/udbMv2o.png)
Thanks again!!!!
#15
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Track rod and drag rod
https://www.roverparts.com/steering/track-rods/TF255/
adjustable panhard bar
https://www.roverparts.com/steering/track-rods/TF256/
The adjustable panhard bar will allow you to adjust the steering wheel back to being centered after the lift. Even the 2" lift on the stock bar will have the steering wheel slightly off center after an alignment. It's not necessary as I'm still running a stock one with a 3" lift but some people can't handle the wheel not being perfectly centered when the wheels are going straight lol and I totally understand that. I'll upgrade at some point just hasn't really made it a priority yet.
https://www.roverparts.com/steering/track-rods/TF255/
adjustable panhard bar
https://www.roverparts.com/steering/track-rods/TF256/
The adjustable panhard bar will allow you to adjust the steering wheel back to being centered after the lift. Even the 2" lift on the stock bar will have the steering wheel slightly off center after an alignment. It's not necessary as I'm still running a stock one with a 3" lift but some people can't handle the wheel not being perfectly centered when the wheels are going straight lol and I totally understand that. I'll upgrade at some point just hasn't really made it a priority yet.
#16
#17
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Why are you getting HD components when you are 80% on the road and it’s a daily driver? There is no reason to go above 2” with the right tires these trucks will go anywhere. Are you going to have 500lbs of gear in the back and another 200 on the roof? I would recommend Bilstein shocks with OME springs. They are excellent and ride better than the OME.
Last edited by stillruns; 04-02-2020 at 10:16 AM.
#19
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I've tried OME Nitrocharger shocks, Bilsteins, and Terrafirma on my OME Medium duty springs, by far the best shocks have been the Terrafirma... I was not a believer until I tried them. The Nitrochargers were stiff but were worn out in 40k miles. The Bilsteins wore out in under 10k miles, they had a stiff ride at first then I could feel every pimple in a road surface through them... Something about them that is not right for this heavy of truck. The TF's were like a magic carpet ride for the first 5000 miles and got a little stiffer with age... Now they ride perfect with two people in the truck or one person and a few hundred pounds of load.
I also do about 80% paved roads, daily city driving and many long trips on the freeway. I've put 200k on my truck and this is just my experience.
I agree with above poster about HD level upgrades...Overkill unless you weigh 500 pounds and carry armor plated steel and expedition bumpers and loaded roof rack.
I also do about 80% paved roads, daily city driving and many long trips on the freeway. I've put 200k on my truck and this is just my experience.
I agree with above poster about HD level upgrades...Overkill unless you weigh 500 pounds and carry armor plated steel and expedition bumpers and loaded roof rack.
#20
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Why are you getting HD components when you are 80% on the road and it’s a daily driver? There is no reason to go above 2” with the right tires these trucks will go anywhere. Are you going to have 500lbs of gear in the back and another 200 on the roof? I would recommend Bilstein shocks with OME springs. They are excellent and ride better than the OME.
Anyways, with that said, do you think the OME suspenstion with their HD springs is not a good combination? Do you think the Medium Duty is better? Or perhaps move away from the OME suspension all together and get a more true 2" solution?