So I was an idiot and overheated my engine multiple times - 260deg+
#31
Well, as Richard said, I'm hesitant to tear down the engine if everything seems to be working. Drove around for an hour this morning. Half city driving, half on the freeway holding a steady 65 to 70 mph. Temps never got above 180 and generally stayed around 170 (57° F ambient). No smoking nor leaks. Also went through the drive cycles to clear my check engine light for the new front O2 sensors I installed yesterday
I don't know if I was partially saved because I had fresh fluids in when I overheated. But given I have no leaks, driving around for an hour caused no issues or temperature spikes, I'm going to leave everything alone and be hyper vigilant about monitoring my temps. I am still planning to complete my last flush and install the 180 deg thermostat that came with Extincts inline kit. If that should cause anything to change, or if I notice any other issues, I will definitely follow up.
I don't know if I was partially saved because I had fresh fluids in when I overheated. But given I have no leaks, driving around for an hour caused no issues or temperature spikes, I'm going to leave everything alone and be hyper vigilant about monitoring my temps. I am still planning to complete my last flush and install the 180 deg thermostat that came with Extincts inline kit. If that should cause anything to change, or if I notice any other issues, I will definitely follow up.
The following users liked this post:
Richard Gallant (06-13-2021)
#32
I noticed that a few years ago when I got the inline thermostat. Engine response and mpg went up. Not 17 but 15-16 mpg hwy
I wonder what LR was talking about for the reason to run so hot was to improve emissions?
Maybe some other gases that get produced not mpg I tell you
I wonder what LR was talking about for the reason to run so hot was to improve emissions?
Maybe some other gases that get produced not mpg I tell you
#34
Sounds like you overheated it once or twice. With fresh HGs and fluids you're probably fine. This forum is consumed by PTSD. Filled with Land Rover horror stories. You're probably just fine. But you learned your lesson. The inline thermostat mod is a must for this car. Get yourself an ultragauge so you can read the live temperature readings while you drive. You can set alarms to it let you know if something is going on. When I had my truck I set mine to 230F.
With fresh HGs, inline thermo, heavy duty fan clutch, brass propeller, my temps were 185F all the time. If I hit above 200F it was a sign something was wrong.
Like I said though it sounds like youre fine. Theres a lot panic here where people think it overheats once and the engine explodes but there is a reason for the concern. Overheating is the one thing you can't allow for with this truck.
With fresh HGs, inline thermo, heavy duty fan clutch, brass propeller, my temps were 185F all the time. If I hit above 200F it was a sign something was wrong.
Like I said though it sounds like youre fine. Theres a lot panic here where people think it overheats once and the engine explodes but there is a reason for the concern. Overheating is the one thing you can't allow for with this truck.
The following 3 users liked this post by DiscoRover007:
#35
Welp, I guess it was just a matter of time. I've been driving around the past week with no problems at all. Temps stayed below 190. Today I saw the temperature creeping up to above 200. Pulled over and saw I had low coolant. Topped back off and kept driving and it happened again. Got home, topped up again, started it up to bleed the air and now my coolant is bubbling like crazy. Also a clacking sound that I'm fairly confident is a slipped liner
I would attempt to replace the heads myself, but I don't have a shop to keep the truck in while I work on it. Plus, I've been looking into the LS swap and am debating what I want to do going forward. I know there are heads with liners that prevent this from happening, but if this is a car I want to keep long term, it might be worth it for me to invest some more and get a better performing engine that has a lot more aftermarket support (and cheaper parts). Any thoughts on this? I know there are several members who have done the swap.
I would attempt to replace the heads myself, but I don't have a shop to keep the truck in while I work on it. Plus, I've been looking into the LS swap and am debating what I want to do going forward. I know there are heads with liners that prevent this from happening, but if this is a car I want to keep long term, it might be worth it for me to invest some more and get a better performing engine that has a lot more aftermarket support (and cheaper parts). Any thoughts on this? I know there are several members who have done the swap.
#36
So it does sound like you have a slipped liner in addition to blown head gaskets. You also could have a cracked block at this point given the temperatures you saw. There are not heads with liners, those are in the block. Your heads are probably warped but they can be machined.
Your choices are:
1. Head gaskets at a minimum, live with the slipped liner ticking. They go thousands of miles like that. Also sometimes a lower temp thermostat will cure the ticking. Probably around $2500 at a shop
2. Head gaskets plus cylinder pinning - probably $5000 is total
3. Top hat liner shortblock or long block - $5000 to $8000 plus install labor.
4. LS swap - LS engine plus kit and labor -probably upwards of $6000
BTW, for you and others, parts are actually cheaper for the Rover engine. I have 2002 Camaro SS, built. Almost every part is cheaper for the Rover. You can argue about reliability, but the all aluminum LS doesn't do much better at 275 degrees. Generally used or built LS engines go for more too. Don't get me wrong, I love the power of an LS, but they are not cheaper.
Your choices are:
1. Head gaskets at a minimum, live with the slipped liner ticking. They go thousands of miles like that. Also sometimes a lower temp thermostat will cure the ticking. Probably around $2500 at a shop
2. Head gaskets plus cylinder pinning - probably $5000 is total
3. Top hat liner shortblock or long block - $5000 to $8000 plus install labor.
4. LS swap - LS engine plus kit and labor -probably upwards of $6000
BTW, for you and others, parts are actually cheaper for the Rover engine. I have 2002 Camaro SS, built. Almost every part is cheaper for the Rover. You can argue about reliability, but the all aluminum LS doesn't do much better at 275 degrees. Generally used or built LS engines go for more too. Don't get me wrong, I love the power of an LS, but they are not cheaper.
The following users liked this post:
uhoh_elmo (06-20-2021)
#37
I would attempt to replace the heads myself, but I don't have a shop to keep the truck in while I work on it. Plus, I've been looking into the LS swap and am debating what I want to do going forward. I know there are heads with liners that prevent this from happening, but if this is a car I want to keep long term, it might be worth it for me to invest some more and get a better performing engine that has a lot more aftermarket support (and cheaper parts). Any thoughts on this? I know there are several members who have done the swap.
I wouldn’t go back to a Rover V8. It’s very underpowered, temperamental, has near-constant maintenance needs. LS is the opposite - it just goes. I replaced some minor stuff when then engine was out, but besides that I’ve only had to replace minimal parts (one coil pack and a PCV), and that’s with a 125k mile used engine. Biggest advantage to me is not having to worry about the engine.
I can’t speak about the price of Camaro LS1 5.7 parts, but the price of the LS truck 5.3 parts is cheap on average. And it is very nice to be able to walk into an Autozone / Oreillys / Advance and walk out with what you need. Since the swap, I'd say my overall cost of maintenance has gone down. Amount of time I need for maintenance has also been reduced somewhat.
As for the driving experience - it’s much improved. Lot more power over the 4.0, better gas mileage. $5k is about the entry point cost for doing the swap yourself, depending on what kind of deal you can find. A lot of Disco 2 LS swaps have been done in the PNW, so you might have some luck inquiring on the clubs / FB groups there for recommended shops / others who have done it.
The following users liked this post:
uhoh_elmo (06-20-2021)
#38
#39
#40
@uhoh_elmo Start simple go read the engine swap thread, LS swaps are not that straight forward. Decide how much you want to spend, Although D2 prices are going up do not expect an engine swap version to do as well a stock truck. in good shape.
My suggestion if you can do it yourself is to pull the heads and look at the block and liners then decide what to do.
My suggestion if you can do it yourself is to pull the heads and look at the block and liners then decide what to do.