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I did not need to pull the wing off. I have fixed everything in place but will go back to glue everything. Some notes about the installation. The hose to reducer could be better thought out. Just the sealant is keeping in place. There is enough space between the formers in the wing to cut a hole big enough for the hose. I will go back and glue some split tubing over the edges to protect the hose. I'll do the same where the tube goes into the wing. There is about 9" of extra hose which is helpful when pulling it through. I shoved it into the wind but will go back and cut it down and glue it onto the tube. The 2 brackets come unpainted. I painted them black. The large round heads of the self tapping screws that connect to the A pillar prevent the door from completely closing. I drilled out the bracket and installed countersunk screws. I got some rivnuts as recommended in the previous thread but I haven't found M6 countersunk bolts. Even not after installing the countersunk screws I'm getting wind noise around that part of the door frame. I may have bent the frame there. The bracket is thick. It really is the only thing holding the tube on. If you have the time and skills I would recommend fabricating a thinner L bracket and mount it low on the A pillar and then fabricate a bracket at the top of the tube that attaches to the gutter like the Mantek.
The reason why I installed the snorkel is to reduce the intake air temp. After installing the 180 deg thermostat I noticed that my air intake temp was ranging from 100 to 135 deg on a 80 deg ambient day. The coolant temp never dropped below 195 which was better than the 210 deg before the change. I was surprised how much the coolant temperatures dropped with the decrease of the intake temperature. The picture of the iCarsoft is sitting in traffic on a 90 deg day. On the highway the air intake temp will drop to ambient of course. But surprisingly the coolant with drop to 179.
Based on my airplane engine experience I would guess this would increase the margin for detonation and reduce the octane requirement. I don't have a way to read the output of the detonation sensor at this time to test.
cutout for hose. You can see the bottom former in the wing. There is another inside, above the hole too.
Cutout for the tube. Southdown provides a template. The hole is a little on the small side. I used a Dremmel tool.
The inside of the molding mounted on the tube. You will need to glue it onto the tube and to the wing.
The A pillar mounting bracket painted and attached.
Guide tube through the wing.
The other end of the guide tube in the engine bay.
The cord I will use to pull the hose through fished through the tube.
The guide tube removed. This end will be tied onto the hose to pull it through the wing.
After the hose has been pulled through. This didn't take too much work if the cutouts are sized correctly.
As you can see there is a generous amount of hose to work with.
The hose is in the reducer and the reducer is attached to the filter box with a jubilee clamp. The hose to reducer fit is not very tight. Only the sealent is what is holding them together. A steel ring on the inside and a jubilee clamp on the outside would give a more secure fit. I had to disconnect the hood sensor wires to get clearance to work.
Tube mounted to A pillar
The L bracket. You can see the fit between the bracket and the door frame
I need to work with the hole size to get the Southdown molding to fit better.
The included round headed screws prevent the door frame from making contact with the seal on the right.
Yes I do. The intake air temp is measured at the MAF I believe. I don't know how much it would raise the intake temperature. There is the coolant at at 180 deg plus the temperature of the manifold to contend with. I did notice that it took a while at highway speeds to cool down the heat soaked intake system with or without the snorkel. It is just much faster and cooler with the snorkel.
On a different note when I lived in Des Moines the power steering fluid could take an hour to warm up enough so that the pump didn't squeal. I have toyed with the idea of extending the hoses from the throttle body heater to somehow warm up the power steering fluid seasonally.
Yes I do. The intake air temp is measured at the MAF I believe. I don't know how much it would raise the intake temperature. There is the coolant at at 180 deg plus the temperature of the manifold to contend with. I did notice that it took a while at highway speeds to cool down the heat soaked intake system with or without the snorkel. It is just much faster and cooler with the snorkel.
On a different note when I lived in Des Moines the power steering fluid could take an hour to warm up enough so that the pump didn't squeal. I have toyed with the idea of extending the hoses from the throttle body heater to somehow warm up the power steering fluid seasonally.
not a common problem on the power steering never had one fail or squeak I also don’t see a lot of posts about it here. I flush the fluid and add a power steering additive every few years
Maybe if you get that air cool enough you can run regular instead of premium fuel
Maybe if you get that air cool enough you can run regular instead of premium fuel
That is what I am hoping for. I need to figure out if I can watch the signal from the detonation sensor in real time. Maybe with a Nancom. iCarsoft can't access it.
06-28-2020 | 04:45 PM
Southdown snorkel installation
