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Start but won't stay running

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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 04:26 PM
  #11  
notny41's Avatar
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What resolved this?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 05:22 PM
  #12  
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Is yours doing the exact same thing? Did you just do head gaskets?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 08:16 AM
  #13  
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Mine does the following (it's a 96 D1 SE): it was the hottest and humid day of the year yesterday and it has never given me starting issues before, but after driving it for 15 munutes it was parked for about 45 minutes. After that it would start and then as it came back down to idle speed the engine would die. Then if you try starting it again it would turn over and maye fire a little bit but come nowhere close to starting. After about 45 more minutes I tried a couple more times and it finally started. I drove it for 20 minutes with no issues. Went to a gas station and filled it up with gas and it started up with no problem. Drove it 5 more minutes, parked it for about 10 minutes and it wouldn't start again.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 06:04 PM
  #14  
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There are lots of things that can cause problems like that. I would take a look at what the coolant temp sensor is reading. If the temperature looks like it's out of range it could do that. Also, the intake air temp is worth looking at. If those look normal, the IAC valve can act up sometimes. They sometimes get gummed up with carbon deposits.
Another thing to look at is the CPS. When it's not starting, you can connect a scan tool and watch the RPM data pid. If it stays at zero while cranking, it may be bad.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 10:32 AM
  #15  
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Mine has no fuel pressure at the rail and I do have voltage going to the fuel pump for about 4-5 seconds after the key is turned to the run position so I think my problem is either the fuel pump itself or the fuel filter - leaning more towards the pump. I have both on order coming soon.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 08:37 PM
  #16  
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If you have no rail pressure, the pump isn't running. Make sure you have power AND ground. An easy way to check that is to connect a test light between the power and ground wires. Make sure it lights when you turn the key on. Just be careful not to spread the connectors if you probe the front of the connector.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 09:45 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by notny41
no fuel pressure at the rail and I do have voltage going to the fuel pump for about 4-5 seconds after the key is turned....
see previous post

 
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 10:24 AM
  #18  
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Hi there I am having those same problems and I have no reading from my ECT or Itake air temperature sensor with my scan tool . It shows -40℉ on both sensors .

Maby check those two sensors on a scan tool and let me know what it shows .... my sensors test fine out of the rover with a ohms resistance test but not when plugged in at all.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 11:22 AM
  #19  
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I have a disco 1 and I have the same thing going on the up and down idle . When I give it gas it responds for a sec but then goes down and does the popping noise thru the air filter box and dies .

My thing is I'm still fixing it up and I have -40℉ readings from my ECT and AIT sensors + a %100 on my TPS with my scan tool hooked up to it .


I tested all of them and they pass a ohms resistance test just fine

I hope this info helps you .
Let me know what readings you get by hooking a scan tool up to it .
 
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 06:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by neville
Hi there I am having those same problems and I have no reading from my ECT or Itake air temperature sensor with my scan tool . It shows -40℉ on both sensors .

Maby check those two sensors on a scan tool and let me know what it shows .... my sensors test fine out of the rover with a ohms resistance test but not when plugged in at all.
If you have -40* readings on both of those, you may have lost the 5 volt reference. You could try unplugging one of the sensors and see if one of the wires has 5 volts on it.
 
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