hey guys, i have an 01 D2 se7 thats giving me fits. a couple months ago it shut off while my family and i were driving down the interstate. cruising at about 65mph, it "bucked" once and then shut off. radio and air still on, instrument panel didnt show anything, just engine shut off. we coasted to the side of the road. it wouldnt restart and had to get a ride home. a couple hours later, we returned and it started right up.
a week later, it had been running fine all day and my wife went to the store. when she came out, it wouldnt start again. it would turn over but not fire.
a couple hours later, started right up.
i talked to a few folks, trolled the rover forums and ended up replacing the cps. it ran fine for about 15 miles and then started "bucking" again so i took it home before we were stranded again.
my next attempt was the fuel pump. i replaced the motor only with an airtex from advance auto. the first one they gave me(e3270) didnt look like my bosch so i returned it and we matched it to another airtex that was identical to the bosch.
i installed it again and buttuned her up, only to still have the problem.
and i bought a new fuse relay.
still nothing.
they sold me the fuel filter which i have read that there isnt one, nor can i find it if it does exist for it.
she starts fine with starting fluid but dies as soon as it runs out.
i have tried the fuel cut off swith/button by the firewall on passenger side too.
she was atleast starting before i did the fuel pump so what am i missing?
help please!

 

Are you sure the fuel lines on the pump are tight and or nor cracked?
Many have done that cheap repair only to have problems because of cracked fuel lines or loose clamps.
The only fuel filter on a DII is on the fuel pump.

 

its possible that the lines are not clamped enough, i just pushed them over the tubes and they seemed tight. could that cause it to not have enough pressure?

 

Did you use fuel injection clamps?
If not that is probably your problem, the fuel will leak past the clamps and not get to the engine, it will just return to the tank.

 

geez, you know, in the back of my head i kept thinking that i should use those little line clamps that came in the kit.
well, atleast that gives me a good starting point.
its always the simplest solutions that everyone overlooks, right?
hope it works.

 

K eep
I t
S imple
S tupid

My motto.

 

lol, good ole kiss. thanks man, i will update u tomorrow.

 

looks like i still have a problem. opened the fuel tank up again, put some hose clamps on good and tight, zipped everything back up, and still a no go.
i dont get it.
all the wires are the same, gas gauge on the dash works so i know the sending unit is too which means im getting electricity. when i try to crank the engine with the fuel line pulled out, it spits fuel in the well around the pump so its putting out fuel, right?
its got a new relay and fires up with starting fluid so the sparks are working.
what am i missing?

 

Did you use the hose clamps that came with the pump?

This is why I am a huge proponent of just buying the actual fuel pump assembly, it helps reduce the "I'm a idiot" factor which gets me more often than I'd like to admit. lol

The only other thing I can think of is a bad cam sensor, that is what tells the injectors when to fire.

 

yes i used the included hose clamps. should i be able to hear the pump? i have not heard even the faintest noise yet. could the polarity be reversed? even though it spits fuel, could that be possibly the back wash when it is supposed to drain back into the tank?
am i making sense? i mean, could the wires be crossed? i just plugged the old connector into the new motor.