Steering Box Options
#1
Steering Box Options
Hi All,
Thinking it might be time replace my steering box.
I have 2000MY 240,000 Kms on the Disco and steering feels "notchy" with a dead spot when the wheel is pointed straight ahead. Doesn't inspire you with a tremendous amount of confidence when going 65mph down the highway! I haven't faffed with the adjuster yet so plan to give that a go before ripping into it extensively...
Checked all the TREs and ball joints - everything seems tight. Shocks are probably due for replacement but I doubt are the cause of my symptoms.
My question to the board is, if I decide to replace the box does an 03-04 steering box fit the 00-02? I see they are different part numbers on AB, but I can get a known good, low mileage one from on 04 Disco for a good price.
Cheers
Dave
Thinking it might be time replace my steering box.
I have 2000MY 240,000 Kms on the Disco and steering feels "notchy" with a dead spot when the wheel is pointed straight ahead. Doesn't inspire you with a tremendous amount of confidence when going 65mph down the highway! I haven't faffed with the adjuster yet so plan to give that a go before ripping into it extensively...
Checked all the TREs and ball joints - everything seems tight. Shocks are probably due for replacement but I doubt are the cause of my symptoms.
My question to the board is, if I decide to replace the box does an 03-04 steering box fit the 00-02? I see they are different part numbers on AB, but I can get a known good, low mileage one from on 04 Disco for a good price.
Cheers
Dave
#2
Hi All,
Thinking it might be time replace my steering box.
I have 2000MY 240,000 Kms on the Disco and steering feels "notchy" with a dead spot when the wheel is pointed straight ahead. Doesn't inspire you with a tremendous amount of confidence when going 65mph down the highway! I haven't faffed with the adjuster yet so plan to give that a go before ripping into it extensively...
Checked all the TREs and ball joints - everything seems tight. Shocks are probably due for replacement but I doubt are the cause of my symptoms.
My question to the board is, if I decide to replace the box does an 03-04 steering box fit the 00-02? I see they are different part numbers on AB, but I can get a known good, low mileage one from on 04 Disco for a good price.
Cheers
Dave
Thinking it might be time replace my steering box.
I have 2000MY 240,000 Kms on the Disco and steering feels "notchy" with a dead spot when the wheel is pointed straight ahead. Doesn't inspire you with a tremendous amount of confidence when going 65mph down the highway! I haven't faffed with the adjuster yet so plan to give that a go before ripping into it extensively...
Checked all the TREs and ball joints - everything seems tight. Shocks are probably due for replacement but I doubt are the cause of my symptoms.
My question to the board is, if I decide to replace the box does an 03-04 steering box fit the 00-02? I see they are different part numbers on AB, but I can get a known good, low mileage one from on 04 Disco for a good price.
Cheers
Dave
Land Rover Discovery 2 Power Steering Boxes | Paddock - Paddock Spares
Hopefully someone who is more clued up than me will come along with a definite answer.
#3
So this steering is weird and has me stumped. I went for a highway run today and for the first 15 or so miles the steering was bad. Scary bad... Wandering all over the shop with a dead spot in the straight ahead position. The weirdness started after I stopped at the home depot to pick up some bits... After being in the store for 10 mins I fire up the rover and get back on the highway - the steering is solid! No issues and noticeably less wayward. What could be causing this?
I initially thought box, but could it be the pump?
I initially thought box, but could it be the pump?
#5
No weight in the back dgi and tire pressures are dialled in to factory spec.
I had the same issue when the larger mud tires that were on the vehicle a couple of weeks ago too, so I'm ruling out tires. Also an alignment/balance was done with the new tires, and all tie rods/ball joints checked out.
I'm convinced it's the box but I just find it strange that it's somewhat intermittent.
I had the same issue when the larger mud tires that were on the vehicle a couple of weeks ago too, so I'm ruling out tires. Also an alignment/balance was done with the new tires, and all tie rods/ball joints checked out.
I'm convinced it's the box but I just find it strange that it's somewhat intermittent.
#6
Something to consider is that it can also be the pump.
Different manufacturer and design but same concept.
I'm a Mercedes tech. Consistently, we have older GL's come in with power steering concerns. Power steering goes dead after a heat soak cycle. Pump and new lines and back in business. Dead spots normally get the steering rack. (steering box in this application). Binding is normally the steering shaft (Between column and steering box.)
Truck with all problems get everything.
I would go with the pump first.
Different manufacturer and design but same concept.
I'm a Mercedes tech. Consistently, we have older GL's come in with power steering concerns. Power steering goes dead after a heat soak cycle. Pump and new lines and back in business. Dead spots normally get the steering rack. (steering box in this application). Binding is normally the steering shaft (Between column and steering box.)
Truck with all problems get everything.
I would go with the pump first.
#7
Cheers mate. I was thinking the pump may be a culprit also - am I correct in thinking the box shares the same fluid as the PS pump?
The steering does feel "stiff" and there is a bit of a whine from one of the accessories in the engine bay so this could all be indicative of a failing pump.
Knowing my luck it'll be the pump AND the box that need doing...
The steering does feel "stiff" and there is a bit of a whine from one of the accessories in the engine bay so this could all be indicative of a failing pump.
Knowing my luck it'll be the pump AND the box that need doing...
#8
Anyway, I've confirmed with the very helpful PO that the adjuster on the box was played with relatively recently which helped remove some of the "slop" in the steering, but also seems to have stiffened things up.
I'm now almost 100% convinced that the box needs to be replaced and am on the lookout for a good low mileage replacement.
Planning on doing the job myself - had a look at the RAVE today... does anyone have any additional tips and advice for this job? Is it really necessary to remove the front wheels and "lock in" the box with that locating bolt?
If it is indeed needed, what sort of bolt will work?
Any other things I should be looking at before committing to changing out boxes?
I'm now almost 100% convinced that the box needs to be replaced and am on the lookout for a good low mileage replacement.
Planning on doing the job myself - had a look at the RAVE today... does anyone have any additional tips and advice for this job? Is it really necessary to remove the front wheels and "lock in" the box with that locating bolt?
If it is indeed needed, what sort of bolt will work?
Any other things I should be looking at before committing to changing out boxes?
#9
Probably goes without saying, but the box is kinda heavy and bulky, so be ready for it, I used a floor jack to hold it with all 4 wheels on the ground.
I put the front wheels straight ahead, then used the column lock to keep the steering wheel itself straight. Pull a couple bolts that connect the shaft that links the steering wheel to the box, unbolt the taper joint that connects the front wheels, then remove the oil lines and (gently) drop the box.
I'd check the ujoints on the shaft, there are 2, so if anything is loose, now is the time to change them. Mine were fine, and I'm just under 100k miles, so I reinstalled.
I used the locating bolt on the box for reference, but I did not actually put a bolt in it.
If you have everything lined up (steering wheels and front wheels) when you take the old one off, chances are pretty good everything will line up with the new box. The steering shaft (with ujoints) probably should be the first thing you unbolt on the old box, and the last thing you connect on the new one.
DO NOT turn your steering wheel after disconnecting the shaft, if you do, you'll have to figure out where center is before you bolt the shaft back up. I think its 3.5 turns each way from center (or about 7 total lock to lock), as I moved it before I realize this was a bad idea.
The whole process isn't at all hard, just a bit messy due to oil and a little fidgety with aligning the mounting bolts in the new box, primarily due to weight. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I put the front wheels straight ahead, then used the column lock to keep the steering wheel itself straight. Pull a couple bolts that connect the shaft that links the steering wheel to the box, unbolt the taper joint that connects the front wheels, then remove the oil lines and (gently) drop the box.
I'd check the ujoints on the shaft, there are 2, so if anything is loose, now is the time to change them. Mine were fine, and I'm just under 100k miles, so I reinstalled.
I used the locating bolt on the box for reference, but I did not actually put a bolt in it.
If you have everything lined up (steering wheels and front wheels) when you take the old one off, chances are pretty good everything will line up with the new box. The steering shaft (with ujoints) probably should be the first thing you unbolt on the old box, and the last thing you connect on the new one.
DO NOT turn your steering wheel after disconnecting the shaft, if you do, you'll have to figure out where center is before you bolt the shaft back up. I think its 3.5 turns each way from center (or about 7 total lock to lock), as I moved it before I realize this was a bad idea.
The whole process isn't at all hard, just a bit messy due to oil and a little fidgety with aligning the mounting bolts in the new box, primarily due to weight. Good luck and let us know how it goes.