Hi, after doing a search on a tapping noise, several people have suggested it is the lifters and not to worry about it.

However, my tapping noise also comes with very rough idling and has gotten significantly louder after a 700 mile roundtrip done a few days ago. The noise has always been there since I got the truck but now its just getting too loud. Im also curious as to why its idling so rough to the point to where you think its going to stall but just stays at that low rpm (around 500rpm).

I recently did its first synthetic oil change about 2,200 miles ago (time for a new one this weekend).

Any thoughts or ideas? Also my brake light on the dash has been on forever... is this part of the three amigos because my TC and hill descent control is also on along with the check engine light. One more thing, lately my truck has not been wanting to start like the batteries dead but all the lights and the radio still work. I tested the battery and it was good. It just clicks and doesnt even turn over. I recently replaced my CPS sensor so its not that and the symptoms do not lead to that either (just clicks as if the batteries dead.)

 

What would have happened if that brake light ment your brake were about to fail and your ran over and killed someone cause you didn't check it out, that is why some people call them idiot lights.
Do you have an owners manual, if so, read it cover to cover.
That brake light means either you are driving with your e-brake on or your brake fluid is low cause you are just about out of brake pads.
As for your noise, I wouldn't listen to those people, that know nothing about internal engine noises. If you have a noise, that is a wear problem that costs you more the longer you let it go. Also just noticed your engine is one of the ones on the hit list, does your oil light come on at all?

 

Yup, Ive read the owners manual several times and I also downloaded the rave manual which is very valuable. When the truck clicks and doesnt start the battery and oil light come on along with the others, but the oil light has never lit up when idling or driving.

The brake fluid is fine and the brakes dont sqweak at all. I though it was part of the three amigos. The brake light turned on after I had the ebrake on one night and after disengaging, it just stayed on. Im gonna get codes read for the check engine light later today and maybe that will tell me whats goin on.

 

ODB2 readers will not read your ABS codes. you need an ABS specific reader to figure out what is wrong with your ABS system. like an ABS amigo. or you can go to an indie LR shop or a dealership. but a dealer will charge you $120 for the diagnostic. then you will need to fix it and pay another $120 to clear the light. the amigo costs $200 new of you can rent one from some people on the forum.

 

looks like Im adding the abs reader to the list. I have a total of 8 codes, they are as follows:

P0139- O2 sensor bank one sensor 2
P0305- cylinder 5 misfire
P0171- System too lean bank 1 cylinder 1
P0101- Mass air flow sensor
P0175- system too rich bank 2
P0130- O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1

I could not find descriptions of the other two codes I have, they are:

P1319
P1590

Im thinking the P1319 is a knock sensor and the P1590 is a nuetral position switch circuit high input. Im gonna do an induction cleaning and will soon replace plugs and wires. Then Im going to replace the O2 sensors. Any ideas for the other errors?

 

how many miles on your truck? you really need to do some maitenance. get some 8mm magencor wires from apexperformance.net cheapest price on the web and then some bosch +4 plat plugs from amazon.com

have you done the head gaskets yet?
are you losing coolant?

what type of air filter are you using?
paper or K&N?

 

Its got 91k on it. Ive never done the headgaskets and not sure if the previous owner did either. Im loosing coolant from the throttle body heater plate that will be fixed in a few days. It has a K&N filter but not sure how old it is and it looks pretty good.

The p1319 is a miss fire detected with low fuel level and the p1590 has to do with the abs.

So, Im assuming the first step is to get the new wires and plugs, induction cleaning and see if that fixed anything? If not then replace all O2 sensors.

 

yeah ditch the K&N and get a paper filter. it killed your MAF, get a new Bosch MAF in the LR box. one problem solved.

then get the head gasket kit from AB. has the throttle body heater plate included. and new head bolts.

when you have eveyrthing apart to do the gaskets the wires and plugs are a heck of a lot easier.

get the abs code read to figure out what is wrong there. could be brakes, brake dust, warped rotor, a hub, the ABS modulator...

does your ABS system work? does the pedal pulsate when you slam the brake on a dirt or gravel road?

 

abs does not work anymore... So I should get the head gasket kit install it along with the plugs and wires? I got video of the sound its making, its louder underneath the truck and when I turn it off the ticking noise rattles. Heres the link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIeX6aEKBcE

 

that is F'n deafining! how long has that been going on man!??!? you need to open that engine up. could be a lifter or a spring in that cylinder.

i wouldnt drive it any longer....

when its open you might has well have the heads looked at they might need to be machined and then you can do all the gaskets and plugs and wires and start fresh.

the questions is how much is it worth to you.. some people have the death vin and make it far past 100k and some have it and don't make it past 60k...

thats an odd situation to be in. but if you have the time i say tackle it yourself.