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Sunroof Leak *new one* - trim-to-paint seal leak?

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  #21  
Old 06-16-2014, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by acamato
I emailed the shop that did the work in the article. HEre is their response about the products used:
The sealant we use is WURTH Bond and Seal and their part number is 0890 100 3. The plastic repair is a Kent product called Advanced Plastic Repair APR5 and is part no 85101 34 which is a refill as it comes as part of a kit which includes a syringe to inject and mix the 2 chemicals.
The part numbers for the sunroof seal is EEQ 500010 for both front and back
.
Excellent, very useful info. Many thanks for posting the data.
 
  #22  
Old 07-19-2014, 10:32 PM
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Is there a diagram showing how the sunroof seal EEQ 500010 is oriented? It can go in the channel two ways. Should the flap that folds down when compressed fold outward or inward? Mine was installed folding outward which produces a gap between the glass and frame. If the fold folded inward, I think the seal would fill that gap. I'm wondering if my seals were installed wrong?
 
  #23  
Old 07-20-2014, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by krammark
Is there a diagram showing how the sunroof seal EEQ 500010 is oriented? It can go in the channel two ways. Should the flap that folds down when compressed fold outward or inward? Mine was installed folding outward which produces a gap between the glass and frame. If the fold folded inward, I think the seal would fill that gap. I'm wondering if my seals were installed wrong?
Does this one show what you are looking for?
 
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  #24  
Old 07-21-2014, 05:37 PM
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Thanks for responding. Unfortunately the seal is not even shown as a breakout item in that diagram. The seal sits in item 8, the plastic trim flange and makes the seal to the glass. I just put the new seals on in the same orientation the old ones were installed. I'll test the seal with a hose tomorrow.
Since I took the both sunroofs out of the truck to fix a nipple, I used 3M 4000 marine caulk to seal the sheetmetal roof to Sunroof trim flange. I have to wait 24 hours to test.
 
  #25  
Old 07-23-2014, 08:17 PM
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Default sunroof nipple oops

A word of caution when JB welding a new nipple on a drainpan sump.
I fitted the new nipple so one half of the nipple was protruding out of the sump and one half was protruding into the sump. I jb welded the inside to the bottom and the front wall to make a solid connection. I attached a picture showing how not to attach the new nipple.
That worked great until I tried to fit the drain pan back onto the top portion of the sunroof. It turns out the rails from the upper portion of the sunroof protrude into the plastic sump. The nipple needs to be fitted to the plastic sump such that the rail is allowed to be positioned in the sump.
When screwing the drain pan back on in the dark, I popped off my sump due to the inner portion of my new nipple interfering with the rail.
After the heavy rains stop, I need to remove the drain pan again and dremel off the portion of the nipple that is protruding into the sump and hitting the rail.
On the positive side, it is pouring outside and my two sunroofs are leak free.
I used 3M4000 caulk between the plastic trim and metal roof. I also put the new trim to glass seals on and centered the glass.
 
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  #26  
Old 05-08-2022, 12:39 AM
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Default Sunroof seal replacement

Originally Posted by zeroone
i have done all of this just as many disco2 owners have. i have a copy of the previously mentioned LRM magazine with the sunroof repair write up on google drive. send me your email address and i will gladly share it with you.

the whole thing is a pain in the ***. a little tip.. do not forget to put the little felt squares back.. they prevent the sunroof assembly from rattling up against the drip pans.. i hate myself for forgetting them.
Hello my friend, as I cannot find this issue any more would you be kind enough to share it with me? Thanks, vang.leivaditis@gmail.com
 
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