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Suspension "bang" on the front end.

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Old 06-19-2018, 05:56 PM
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Default Suspension "bang" on the front end.

I'm getting a loud bang through the suspension at the front whenever I hit any hard front bumps (like the kind you get with a tarmac cut edge). At first I was just noticing it on the right side, but now I'm hearing it on both. Feels like a metal on metal "hit". It's quite jarring.

I kind of assume a dead bushing but have had a little look around and can't see anything obvious.

Just thought I'd consult on what to be looking for before I really get into it.
Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:29 PM
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Jack up the front end and start wiggling stuff around and other obvious things such as bit hitting each other when they shouldnt. Check shock mounts maybe?
 
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Old 06-20-2018, 03:36 AM
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How old are your shocks?

Brian.
 
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Old 06-20-2018, 03:54 AM
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Hi

It could be swivel joints, shock bushes or rod ends. Jack up onto axle stands both sides at the front, it only needs a few millimetres clearance under the tire, then check for any movement using a pry bar. Ask someone to check the rod ends with their hands whilst moving the wheel up and down and also watch the shock bushes.

The worst condition it may be the CV joint(s) clunking but that's an outside chance.
 
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Old 06-21-2018, 01:34 PM
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I got the front end up, took off the wheels and wiggled and jiggled and banged with a rubber mallet. Damned if I can find anything obvious.
I do have a question about my anti roll bar (I believe). Doesn’t seem to be properly centred. But I don’t really see what is supposed to keep it centered.
Theres scraping and damage from it being too close to the centre on the driver’s side (see Picts).
I’m of course worried this is a symptom of something larger.
My father did reciently sacrifice the back of a rental car to my bull bar by hitting it 90° on. Might have pushed something around.

 
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Old 06-21-2018, 02:41 PM
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By the marks on top of your coil springs...it looks like it is bottoming out...because the shocks are shot. You can see where the springs are being compressed to the point of leaving marks. Or it's a combination of worn shocks and coil springs...how many miles.

Brian.
 

Last edited by The Deputy; 06-21-2018 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Damn auto correct
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:34 PM
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Yeah. I think you're right about the springs.
Those marks on both sides.
I've know they needed doing for a long time, kept hoping to find them for a reasonable price (or having an excuse to go over the border to Lucky8).
Bet I end up ordering from the UK.
The shocks are quite new (maybe 10k km), and feel fine. But I may have damaged them by making them compensate for crap springs.
Should probably do the rear too, but can't really afford at the moment.

It's 2001, around 180,000 kilometres (112 miles).

Thanks!

 
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:51 PM
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Yeah, probably a combination. My 01 bottoms hard (137K). Thought l had a line on a removed set of springs...but not working out. So, l'll be getting a new set soon. Been holding off on shocks until then.

Brian.
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:33 AM
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Finally got my springs from Rimmer Brothers. Not bad, ordered June 22, arrived August 27th.
Did get a couple "sorry for the delays", when I bugged them. Neat.
Kind of expected a coupon, or something, but no. Just that.

Anyhoo, hopefully get some time to put them on soon. Got the rears too, as it seemed sensible to do them all at the same time.

Any tips or tricks on doing this job? Rave makes it seem pretty straight forward.
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:25 AM
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Front: Start lubing the nuts that hold the shock towers in place, the two bolts that secure the lower shock with WD40, for the next few days. If replacing with stock springs, just jack up vehicle by axle, remove tires, put jack stands under frame rails, let front axle dangle some (makes getting at the lower shock bolts easier, getting a wrench or ratchet/socket in between coils), remove lower shock bolts, remove brake hose retaining bracket bolt and 4 nuts that attach shock tower to upper perch/mount. Drivers side shock tower wiggles out, without removing anything. Passengers side, you need to swing the coolant reservoir gingerly out of the way (without cracking the cheap plastic tubes, yes, it can be done), once it is out of the way...the tower wiggles out. Remove upper shock bolts from each mount to replace shocks (which l hope you are, only makes sense). Now, let the front jack down completely, so the axle dangles freely. Being that these are original springs, they should slide right out with a hefty pull. If they are a 2" lift kit spring, you will have to put your bottle jack between the axle and frame and separate the two some, just keep an eye on your brake hoses...don't over stretch...if things get to tight...remove calipers. Once springs are in reassemble.

Rear: Start by lubing the shock bolts and lower spring perch retaining bolts for the next few days with WD40. Then jack up rear of vehicle by axle, remove tires, support vehicle by frame rails again with jack stands, let the axle again dangle slightly and remove shock bolts and two lower spring retaining bolts. Again, if original springs...just let axle dangle completely now (but don't let the brake lines get over stretched)...the spring should pull right out and install new spring...but if lift kit, you may have to remove calipers from brake assembly (brake hoses will become an issue)...so axle will drop farther. I believe l used my floor jack to lift the body some...at the trailer hitch...helped to give me a few more inches of clearance. Getting the new lift kit spring in will take a little wiggling, but will happen. You can use the bottle jack again, but shouldn't have too. Once springs are installed, resemble everything, using anti-seize on all bolts.

AS ALWAYS...NEVER STICK YOUR FINGERS OR BODY ANYWHERE IT SHOULDN'T BE...YOU WILL BE WORKING UNDER AND AROUND A VEHICLE THAT SOME OF THE HEAVY PARTS WILL BE UNSUPPORTED AT TIMES...SO, BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL!

​​​​​​​Brian.
 


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