Using a bottle jack under the transmission, I lowered the rear end of the transmission as much as I could without the ignition coils at the back of the engine hitting the air conditioning pipes on the firewall. This is more than enough to clear the floor pan. I built a simple stand that I put under the transfer case and placed it on my nephew's motorcycle jack.



This setup essentially allows you to proceed slowly and not have to "fight". You can align both parts, and maneuver the jacks slowly to raise them simultaneously until it all aligns perfectly.

At some point when I fought it out from under the truck, I pried the transmission output shaft to the point that some transmission fluid leaked from the seal but it did not hurt it. Just replaced the seal, and it was fine.

Even working alone, I was able to put it back in without hurting the seals. Jack a little here, jack a little there, get back under to align the parts and see if everything is ok, then out again to work the jacks. With a friend, it's way easier.

You really don't need to remove the input shaft bearing housing (sometimes referred to as the PTO cover) but if you do make sure that the underside of the truck is very clean so as to not get foreign objects inside the transfer case.

Good luck and take your time, and you'll be fine!

 

Thanks lowest bidder for all the help! Finished installing the transfer case today, it was slow and tedious and I would probably rather do 10 cps before doing another transfer case. I had my brother help get the case into position along with two jacks, it really wasnt too bad. Test drove it and no leaks or weird vibrations/ noises. Only thing left to do is find shifter linkage and splice in the diff lock sensor.

 

Glad it worked out well! Those cases are heavy, but on the positive side they are bulletproof I guess!

I spliced the lock sensor in the center console, in the loom right aft of the shifter. Took about ten minutes once I knew the right colors. Just looked in my garage notebook and found this entry I wrote : "purple with pink stripe to ground", but I'm not sure this note applies to that switch. Oh well...

Then a few days later while I was under the truck, I saw what could have been the stock wires for that switch, neatly tucked on top of the tranny. Since I had spliced it already I did not try to see if it was the case, but it woud be an easy matter to short between the two blade connectors and see it it lights up the lock icon in the cluster.

 

I also have an extra connector but, I think they go to the transfer case temp sensor that they did away with for 2003. The connector is the same as the one for the diff lock switch but it has a green stripe on one wire and from what I have read the diff lock wire should have a blue stripe. This case is really quiet, I didnt realize how much my old case would whine untill the noise was gone. Only thing now of concern is after the first long drive with it today of about 30 miles I have a few drips of gear oil from the weep hole where transfer case meets trans. No where near like the leak my old case had which would coat everything down wind. I guess a few drops wont hurt anything? I was ultra careful to not nick the new seal so I cant imagine why it would leak.

 

How did your output shaft look on the transmission? Had the same issue as far as a small leak between the trans and transfer case after replacing the seals on mine. Output shaft on my transmission has a groove in it where the transfer case input seal rides, I think that's why mine still leaks slightly.

 

Didnt notice any groove on the shaft. I guess a bit of dirt or something could have contaminated the seal as we worked it into place.

 

Here is a picture of the leak. After driving I get a bit dripping from the weep hole between transfer case and transmission. Drips down onto cross bar, though Im not really getting any thing on ground underneath. Is this enough of a leak to warrant dropping the transfer case again? That was a major pain I do not want to do again anytime soon. It just really bugs me to do all this work ans still have a leak.

 

It sucks, hey!

You know what they say? If your Land Rover is not leaking oil, then it's out of oil...

 

so true. Not sure why it bothers me so much since front and rear engine seals are leaking as well as power steering pump and right rear hub just started. Sad things is its only been a couple years since I changed the seal in power steering and front crankshaft seal and its the 2nd time I have changed that same hub.

 

Im wondering since i was so careful with that input seal that maybe my leak could be from the intermediate shaft o-ring. #6 in picture. I completely forgot about the orings on that shaft. My question is can they be changed with case still in car? I cant really tell from the rave since its part of the overhaul procedure so they are assuming case is out.