TDI cutting out...
I have a 2.5tdi and after 20 minutes of driving it cuts out just as if it was turned off by the key.
After a couple of minutes it will start again and then cut out again, it must be when it reaches a certain temperature I,m thinking.
I think it may be the temperature sensor that is faulty as the engine is not overheating at all.
Would the sensor cut the engine if it was faulty and if so where on the engine would I find it please..?
After a couple of minutes it will start again and then cut out again, it must be when it reaches a certain temperature I,m thinking.
I think it may be the temperature sensor that is faulty as the engine is not overheating at all.
Would the sensor cut the engine if it was faulty and if so where on the engine would I find it please..?
Most likely cause is the wire to the stop solenoid on the injection pump - the connector can gt oil/water/dirt in there and you get a dodgy connection. Give it a good clean and it should sort the problem. If not, the stop solenoid itself may be faulty, they're easy to replace and cheap but do the other checks listed below before splashing out on a new one.
There aren't any temperature sensors on either Tdi engine (200 or 300) that would cause the problem you're having - in fact the lack of electrics on that engine is one of it's great strengths for an off roader.
As it's stopping dead, as you say - just like switching it off, the problem won't be air supply, it has to be fuel. Other possibilities to check:
1.) Clogged fuel filter - if you've not replaced this within the last 6,000 miles it's due for a new one anyway.
2.) Dodgy lift pump - you should be able to re-prime and bleed the fuel system using the manual lever on the side of the pump. If you can't get any pressure on that lever when trying to prime the system, flick the starter (literally a flick, no more) and try again. If there's still no pressure after a few pumps (sometimes it's only in the last 5mm of the lever trave) then your lift pump is most likely faulty.
3.) Fuel sedimenter (300 Tdi only - so 1995 to 1998 registered cars) blocked with gunge from the fuel tank - drain it, clean it and replace it.
4.) Fuel tank breather blocked - remove and clear with an air line.
5.) Fuel pick up pipe in the tank clogged - there's a gauze filter on this which can become blocked if you've had some dirty fuel in the past. Only way to check that would be to drain and remove the fuel tank - so leave this until the last resort.
Let us know what you find out
Cheers,
There aren't any temperature sensors on either Tdi engine (200 or 300) that would cause the problem you're having - in fact the lack of electrics on that engine is one of it's great strengths for an off roader.
As it's stopping dead, as you say - just like switching it off, the problem won't be air supply, it has to be fuel. Other possibilities to check:
1.) Clogged fuel filter - if you've not replaced this within the last 6,000 miles it's due for a new one anyway.
2.) Dodgy lift pump - you should be able to re-prime and bleed the fuel system using the manual lever on the side of the pump. If you can't get any pressure on that lever when trying to prime the system, flick the starter (literally a flick, no more) and try again. If there's still no pressure after a few pumps (sometimes it's only in the last 5mm of the lever trave) then your lift pump is most likely faulty.
3.) Fuel sedimenter (300 Tdi only - so 1995 to 1998 registered cars) blocked with gunge from the fuel tank - drain it, clean it and replace it.
4.) Fuel tank breather blocked - remove and clear with an air line.
5.) Fuel pick up pipe in the tank clogged - there's a gauze filter on this which can become blocked if you've had some dirty fuel in the past. Only way to check that would be to drain and remove the fuel tank - so leave this until the last resort.
Let us know what you find out

Cheers,
Chris,
I'd remove your post code from your profile if I were you mate - never know who is looking eh? You're not very far from me - if you can't get any joy or you're not mechanially minded, give me a yell... I'll e-mail you my mobile number via the forum.
Cheers,
I'd remove your post code from your profile if I were you mate - never know who is looking eh? You're not very far from me - if you can't get any joy or you're not mechanially minded, give me a yell... I'll e-mail you my mobile number via the forum.
Cheers,
Ok I think it is sorted now, I looked on another site and a common problem with the Disco is the spider immobiliser box.
This sits between the stereo and the heater controls in the centre dash, resulting in the box getting hot.
A bypass plug AMR 4956 can be bought for a fiver, this takes a few hours to fit as its deep behind the dashboard in the most tight space LR could have put it, which is understandable being part of the immobiliser system.
I tookout the box and replaced it with the bypass plug and bingo the Disco hasn't failed me all day, I put 20 quid of diesel in and drove it round like a looney and its fine.
Here is the link which I printed off to help me do the fitting and I'm rubbish at mechanics.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...icalSpider.htm
Thanks for your replies, hope this info helps someone else as this problem has been a nightmare the past few weeks.
Cheers Chris.
This sits between the stereo and the heater controls in the centre dash, resulting in the box getting hot.
A bypass plug AMR 4956 can be bought for a fiver, this takes a few hours to fit as its deep behind the dashboard in the most tight space LR could have put it, which is understandable being part of the immobiliser system.
I tookout the box and replaced it with the bypass plug and bingo the Disco hasn't failed me all day, I put 20 quid of diesel in and drove it round like a looney and its fine.
Here is the link which I printed off to help me do the fitting and I'm rubbish at mechanics.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...icalSpider.htm
Thanks for your replies, hope this info helps someone else as this problem has been a nightmare the past few weeks.
Cheers Chris.
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