Yes I searched but since people are getting more time on the terrafirma lifts now I'd like specific feedback to the 3" set up.

Talked to lucky and ordered (can still back down to 2") a 3" kit with steering stabalizer and 2"+ shocks instead of the 3" so I should stop flex before binding.

2000 disco II with ace

(My front springs stock are faded bad and shocks are totally gone feels like a lowrider with cut springs lol)

A couple of questions for users not retailers!

1) with 3" springs will I loose my drop out articulation because of watts link is maxxed I assume?

2) how bad is the caster and effects with say a 285/65/18 tire?

3) does it drift all over the road and how mandatory is the adjustable panhard bar?

4) would I be wise to just go 2" and use longer shocks with shorter bodies shortened bumps and then do watts links for flex?

5) should I disconnect the rear sway bar and leave the front on for a bit more?

I was told there's several people just slapping a 3" on and 2"+ shocks with no issues and I'd like some feedback from you guys.

Thanks in advance, travis

 

I have the Terra Firma 2" lift and the 2" body lift from Rover Tyme on my Disco 1. It Feels like a good lift. Easy instal, and had the 2" Shock with the lift. I did this to avoid caster correction and brake line extensions that go with the 3" lift. With the 2 inch lift before the body lift I was catching the wheel on the arches. I could get 285/65/16 on mine with a camel cut. I since put on a set of Flexi Flares from lucky 8. Your tire will be taller due to the 18 inch rims. All I have read, once you go above the 33" mark with tires, you will need to upgrade axles and drive lines. As far as the sway bar, if it is anything like the Disco 1, you can do quick disconnects really cheap. i am in the process of doing that to mine. It should only cost $50 to do the front and rear. I wish I would have ordered longer shocks for the rear. This way I could extend the shock mount up higher, put on dislocation cones, and got more travel out of my rear axle. It actually feels better on the road with the new suspension.

 

I am running the TF 3" kit. So far it has worked out well. You will get some wander on the highway, but it is manageable. I have not installed the castor correction arms yet, I was advised that a TT front diff will help solve the wander issue too.

I am running the 285-65-18 and the only clearance issue was on the front inner fender liner. I just had to trim a tad of plastic.

I still have my sways connected. I may add some quick disconnects in the future. The trails I have been on so far I left the sways connected without issue.

 

i have a 3" terra springs/coils and 285/75r16 tr guard dogs.

you will have to dremel away about half of the front inner wheel well plastics, as well sa the front corners, and back the steering stops out a good but (makes tight parkinglots and city driving hairy at times)

you will need extended brake lines if you plan to offroad, you could also get extended abs sensor lines but you can disconnect them from thier holders instead to gain the extra length for saftey, just be carefull they wont swing and bind anywhere.

there is a noticible lack of "want to return to center" with the wheel that takes some getting used to, but its not a dangerous amount. on the highway at speed, it does wander around a good deal, not too difficult to keep stright but it will make you look drunk on ****ty roads. youll need 6 degree radius correcting arms to regain return to center effect and fix the tracking.... but if you dont go on the highway often, its more then liveable (atleast for me).

the thing will be dog slow if you drive it within safe limits for a disco motor (under 2.5k) hahaha. youll either drive slower, or you will be mashing the pedal all the time to merge with traffic, and you will be tailgated often. recommend you either learn to drive it like its a semi or be prepared for the probabyl consiquences of stressing the motor all that more by added gas input to compinsate... or plan on getting 4.1 gears in the diffs and maybe hd axles down the line if you plan to offroad it often.

also be aware that the extra angle will also increase wear on the rotoflex rubber coupler thingy on the rear driveshaft, if it hasnt already been replaced.

and if you want to be legit, youll need it recalibrated for the larger tires so your speedo and odometer will be accurate. the speedo will read a fwe miles per hour slower then you actually are travelling the faster you go, by 40mph indicated you are actually doing about 43/44, and by 65mph highway youll be about 70. remember that and you wont be cought speeding by accident, but be aware you miliage will also be off more and more the more you drive it, sell it in a few years and your odometer will NOT reflect true miliage. how that effects resale if you choose to be honoest about it...well, thats your choice.

 

How I fixed the steering stops was to put some wheel spacers in 30mm. probably why I was rubbing a little more. (it also is a disco 1). But if your not afraid to trim up and put on some flares, it is a good look and great clearance. I will post some picks later.

 

quick disconnects for the sways and you should be good to go. you may notice the sways will be maxed out and give you a bumpier on road ride. my truck is a trail truck so i cut my sways out which makes high speed medium sharp turns on the road quite the experience. if i had to drive it more often i would have gotten disconnects or built them.

oh one thing gets some ss brake lines and take the abs sensor lines out of the holders so they have more room to droop.

 

Thanks for the input and does a 2" lift wander less or once you lirt it your pretty much wandering till corrected.

Yes on pics.

Also doesn't the adjustable panhard bar eliminate wandering?

 

i dont have an adjustable panhard bar and i dont have a problem with wandering. i have a problem with body roll but thats because of the sways i cut out. my 2 inch lift was about 2 1/4 inches and i run 265/75 tyres.

 

On my disco 1 I notice very little wandering. I would say it does slightly, but now that I drive it all the time, I don't notice it. Yes it has a little body roll, but not bad for a wheeler. I did get the medium duty terra firma springs. It was a good compromise for me. I didn't want a real stiff spring because I wanted to keep as much flex as possible. I opted for the 2 inch lift with the body lift to get more clearance for tires than just the 3 inch lift. It really comes down to the clearance for tire in the wheel wells if you ask me. If you don't have enough room in there for the tire, what good is articulation. You can always get the droop action of the wheel with dislocation cones, longer shocks, and relocated upper shock mounts. Some will say that you don't have as much clearance on the chassi, that is correct. But the axles are at the same hight and that of course is the lowest portion of the vehicle. I kept the center of gravity a little lower by going my route, so the body roll isn't as bad. I really find that the vehicle drives really nice. I got 4 inches of lift for wheel well clearance, with the driveablity and ease of installment of the two inch lift. Besides if you do enough wheeling, it is a good idea to have siders and protection under your rig....

I will send those pictures later this afternoon when I have access to them.

 

This IS a stupid question, but how do you post pictures. Tried doing it this morning, and couldn't do it.