The potted PCB fractures and dry joints within the modulator and is exacerbated sometimes by the SVS leaking brake fluid. You can repair the connections but it's risky and tricky job or you can 'wire' out the problem with Option B. Why would you want to, hmmm, to save yourself a small fortune in installing a new modulator (circa $3000 plus fittting) or repair kit courtesy of LR (circa $825 plus fitting) plus a full brake bleed by investing in an aftermarket diag tool (circa $350) or going to an LR agent and them using Text Book to bleed the system. Either way its going to set you back between $800 to $5000 so that's why it pays to do the mods yourself. No brainer really.

 

I've got the same 1590 code and want it to GO AWAY so i can go get my emissions...

@petminded - please let us know what you do, and especially if option B clears your 1590 code.

 

i believe 1590 is a generic ABS code

 

the mod, does not change the way the abs works. It is only bypassing a known connection problem within the abs circuit board. one wire from the shuttle valve connects to ground internally, and the other wire connects (internally)to the yellow/green wire that comes out of the top connector on the abs. The mod consists of removing the shuttle valve assy, cutting the connector off, soldering two wires to the wires that were connected to the cutoff connector, and running one of the wires to the yellow/green wire, and the other to the ground wire, or good solid ground. I did mine in less than an hour, without disconnecting any brake lines or anything. Hardest part was breaking the three allen head screws, but was very manageable.

 

Do as recommended and get the codes. My 3 amigos was a bad wheel sensor. Next time, it was a bad ground on the modular....

 

It's actually more likely it's the wiring (the connector actually) that is bad than the SVS or a leaking problem. I've done the wiring mod twice and only one of them require seals, and the SVswitch was still working fine even though the seals were leaking. The wiring mod is what actually fixed the issue on that one.

 

Yesterday I sat down with someone and they explained some extra details to me. And I finally got to go over the last part of the mod, both A and B versions.

All along the thing thay was bothering me was the thought of modifiying my abs system and by passing a 'circuit board'. A better way of explaining it is option B isnjust a rewire that routes around a known bad internal connection. And the 'circuit board' - its not a circuit board, ist wiring that runs through a fiberglass green board.

So @JasonRedRover to answer your question: when I do choose to take the time to fix my 3A's I will go with option B. Just make sure you get a seal kit and replace the seals too.

As for your error codes, I think it best you go to someone that has the proper scanner to read the true error codes......

 

I did replace the shuttle valve and the lights were off most of the time. Occasionally they would turn on, but come off next time I started the truck.

Several weeks ago I washed the engine, carefully, at the carwash. Since then the ABS lights have been off. The P1418 code is gone, down to the P1415 code.

Not sure what I did, but the best $3 I have put into the truck.

 

Are the seals hard to replace?


I did the mod but I did not do the seals and now my amigos show up intermittently.

 

Find out what codes are present when amigos are on, if the codes have to do with the shuttle valve, then the shuttle switch could be bad, due to the leaking if that is the case. Otherwise it also could be the wheel sensors that could be throwing the code and causing the amigos. Brake dust and such could be the culprit, and cleaning could solve the problem. Just throwing this out there, because shuttle valves are not the only thing to cause the amigos to visit.