Can you point me in the right direction to learn how to remove the driver side passenger door panel and how to replace the door lock actuator? Thanks. Goncho

 

If you start a new thread you will have better luck.

 

This will be the third time for the throttle body heater gasket. Gonna do it myself now that I know where it is. You must replace it because it will leak on your crankshaft sensor and stop you when you least expect it.
tanks for the good pics.

 

I am glad you said that Micky D. Your third time to replace it huh? Just BYPASS that piece of garbage, you will NEVER have to worry about it again.

 

http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible_pg2.html

This holds true to fuel injection as well.

Carb icing.
One of the problems with the spinning, compressing, vacuum-generating properties of the venturi is that it cools the air in the process. Whilst this is good for the engine (colder air is denser and burns better in a fuel-air mix), in humid environments, especially cool, humid environments, it can result in carburetor icing. When this happens, water vapour in the air freezes as it cools and sticks to the inside of the venturi. This can result in the opening becoming restricted or cut off completely. When carbs ice up, engines stop. In aircraft engines, there is a control in the cockpit called "carb heat" which either uses electrical heating elements to heat up the venturi to prevent icing, or reroutes hot air from around the exhausts back into the carburetor intakes. In cars, we don't have "carb heat" but instead there's normally a heat shield over the exhaust manifold connected via a pipe to a temperature-controlled valve at the air filter. When its cold, the valve is open and the air filter draws warm air from over the exhaust manifold and feeds it into the carburetor. As the temperature warms up, the valve closes and the carburetor gets cooler air because the risk of icing has reduced. The symptoms of carb icing are pretty easy to diagnose. First, your engine bogs down at high throttle then it loses power and ultimately could stall completely. You'll stop on the side of the road and wait a couple of minutes, then the engine will start and run normally. This is because with the engine off, the heat from the engine starts to warm up the carbs and melts the ice so that when you try to start it up again, everything is fine.



Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine...#ixzz0j3VhufhN

 

Aircraft engines blah, blah. Control in the cockpit called "carb heat" blah, blah.

 

Cheap gas blah blah blah...

 

Good one! But once again you need to catch yourself up on that post before you start typing.

 

No, I read the who thing...you used mid-grade gas, switched to premium at a grocery store, same place you were buying the mid-grade, your MPG dropped, you came on here and asked questions, you went to Exxon, no change, I gave you crap, you used a bottle of Techron, MPG back to where they are supposed to be, guy said he was going to replace his throttle body heater himself this time, you told him to by pass it, I said not to and gave a link to a unbiased web site, you gave crap and I gave it back...do I have it about right? Or am I still missing something?

 

Okay gang, this sticky gave me the guts to do this on my own, as I was tired of seeing the coolant on top of the valve cover, smelling it when I exited the vehicle, and contined to worry about it. This was PERFECTLY written and photographed, and I thank you!


As for my experience, I did everything exactly as instructed, and changed the hose clamps on everything I touched. The hose coming from the valve cover to the throttle body was PACKED closed with carbon sludge so I straightened it and ran screwdriver through it to open it up. Once I got it all clean I put it back on. Additionally, I found that the hole for returning coolant to the reservoir was blocked with carbon sludge. It was evident to me that the leak was occuring due to the blockage (coolant had nowhere else to go)!


By the way, I bought the unit from atlanticbritish.com for $26, purchased the sealant from Pep Boys for $5, and knocked it out in about an hour! Thank you!!!


Finally, this repair led me to the induction and throttle cleaning sticky. omg, you guys, this is addicitive!!!!! For those of you with the wisdom, keep it up, you are making a difference for us in the field who need you!