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If and when you either "drill head off bolt" or this bolt just breaks a Mayhew or Titan style bolt extractor will be your best friend!!! Vise grips are not going to get this done.
Here is what the extractor looks like and you can find them cheaper... BUT it is worth EVERY DOLLAR!!!! DON'T buy a cheapo knockoff, they suck!> https://www.tooltopia.com/mayhew-tools-29895.aspx
Just skip to 1:05 >
Also, DO NOTUSE chrome sockets. USE an 6-point impact socket 1/2 drive, of good name brand, bare minimum craftsman, S&K, etc...or go all in with mac, snap on, etc.
Again.
Probably, if you would have used an impact socket to begin with...you'd have the head off by now. Chrome sockets are not intended for this type of job, especially for reassembly (torquing down head bolts). They get destorted out of shape, when this much pressure is applied to them...or break...causing a knuckle buster. You are using the wrong tool for the job.
Yes, you can use a longer breaker bar if needed...or add a short piece of pipe as a cheater...but just be ready for failure...if you are using a cheap breaker bar.
the stuck cylinder head bolt came out finally with just a 24" breaker bar and a non-chrome 16mm deep impact socket. The remaining 4 bolts were relatively easy to remove and the head was off.
As was the case on the right side, the head gasket had not failed. Both gaskets, in fact, appear to have been replaced fairly recently and are in relatively good condition. The right gasket had, however, been installed incorrectly, with the red marks facing down rather than up.
Earlier this year, indie LR mechanic told that I had a "massive" coolant leak at the back of the engine, caused by failed head gaskets. In reality, I had a series of small coolant leaks at the expansion tank cap, heater flange, coolant pipe into the lower intake, rigid plastic coolant lines, the T joint with the bleed screw and the three-way plastic connector of the lower thermostat hose (the plastic joints used by Üroparts do not hold up very well) that dripped into the valley pan and then ran down the back of the engine.
Do I need to true the heads seeing I was not over-heating (just losing coolant) and the head gaskets were not blown or can I begin reassembly? Want to get the engine closed up ASAP. Thanks.
the stuck cylinder head bolt came out finally with just a 24" breaker bar and a non-chrome 16mm deep impact socket. The remaining 4 bolts were relatively easy to remove and the head was off.
As was the case on the right side, the head gasket had not failed. Both gaskets, in fact, appear to have been replaced fairly recently and are in relatively good condition. The right gasket had, however, been installed incorrectly, with the red marks facing down rather than up.
Earlier this year, indie LR mechanic told that I had a "massive" coolant leak at the back of the engine, caused by failed head gaskets. In reality, I had a series of small coolant leaks at the expansion tank cap, heater flange, coolant pipe into the lower intake, rigid plastic coolant lines, the T joint with the bleed screw and the three-way plastic connector of the lower thermostat hose (the plastic joints used by Üroparts do not hold up very well) that dripped into the valley pan and then ran down the back of the engine.
Do I need to true the heads seeing I was not over-heating (just losing coolant) and the head gaskets were not blown or can I begin reassembly? Want to get the engine closed up ASAP. Thanks. Cylinder head and gasket just after removal from block
I understand your point that there was no overheating, but if it were me I'd take the heads to a machine shop and get them checked at least. It's to much work getting to this point to not give yourself every chance to have the headgaskets last a good long time. And if the heads check out okay you'll be putting it back together with confidence.
I understand your point that there was no overheating, but if it were me I'd take the heads to a machine shop and get them checked at least. It's to much work getting to this point to not give yourself every chance to have the headgaskets last a good long time. And if the heads check out okay you'll be putting it back together with confidence.
I totally agree 100%, that's sound advise please take it.
IMHO there is no way in hell I would tear this thing down and not get the heads decked. Especially when you weren't the person who did the rebuild in the first place. Having the heads done is just cheap insurance.
How many times have those heads been milled, and how much has been removed? How much can be removed from a head before other problems rise up, like intake fitment. I D K, just asking...
How many times have those heads been milled, and how much has been removed? How much can be removed from a head before other problems rise up, like intake fitment. I D K, just asking...
It's a very valid point, and until someone gets some gauges on these heads it's a total guess. That's why I feel it's better to send them off for inspection 1st at least to get the baseline numbers. You can see in the pic some of the LR specs.
11-25-2017, 10:08 AM
sound advise please take it.
