Tools That Make The Job Easier
#1
Tools That Make The Job Easier
So I'm replacing the glow plugs on my husbands 7.3. Really hard to get to a few of the valve cover bolts. Decide to look online for instructions. Learn that a 1/4 or 3/8 drive shallow socket universal makes the job easier. Yeah! Along with a 1/4 drive deep metric socket set. Wish I had known thus before I started, now struggling with a variety of sockets, universals, and wobble extensions to get the job done.
Have you guys found tools that work great for Land Rover D2 repairs you have done?
Have you guys found tools that work great for Land Rover D2 repairs you have done?
#4
So I'm replacing the glow plugs on my husbands 7.3. Really hard to get to a few of the valve cover bolts. Decide to look online for instructions. Learn that a 1/4 or 3/8 drive shallow socket universal makes the job easier. Yeah! Along with a 1/4 drive deep metric socket set. Wish I had known thus before I started, now struggling with a variety of sockets, universals, and wobble extensions to get the job done.
Have you guys found tools that work great for Land Rover D2 repairs you have done?
Have you guys found tools that work great for Land Rover D2 repairs you have done?
In all honesty I don't understand about the 'glow plugs' as they are unique to diesel engines unless I'm missing something. If you mean spark plugs, yep but you shouldn't need to remove the rocker covers for those.
To help out there is the LR D2 works manual called RAVE and it's available on this forum online. That will give you all the knowledge needed for your tasks.
Of course one of these kind hearted guys might drop around to help you with this one
#5
A 5/8" or 16mm shallow swivel impact socket.
For both rear, lower head bolts. That's the only socket that you can fit an extension to and use an impact wrench to break them loose.
Otherwise, a shallow, regular socket, and a long 1/2" drive ratchet with a small head to fit in there. A breaker bar doesn't allow for much movement, which is very limited between the heads and inner fender.
Takes Alot of arm power.
The swivel socket makes things easy. And, a regular shallow socket and a u-joint combined is too tall, and the u-joint will jam against the fire wall.
For both rear, lower head bolts. That's the only socket that you can fit an extension to and use an impact wrench to break them loose.
Otherwise, a shallow, regular socket, and a long 1/2" drive ratchet with a small head to fit in there. A breaker bar doesn't allow for much movement, which is very limited between the heads and inner fender.
Takes Alot of arm power.
The swivel socket makes things easy. And, a regular shallow socket and a u-joint combined is too tall, and the u-joint will jam against the fire wall.
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Lisa Bunch (01-29-2018)
#7
#8
8mm 12 point (kinda hard to find), I’d say an OBDII Scanner like the iCarsoft LRII minimum (must be able to view different modules & LR specific codes like the ABS), good metric 1/4 & 3/8 set craftsman has a nice small set for 10.00 at my Ace Hardware store (fit nicely in the rear storage slot on the cargo door or rear storage), a good digital meter, and a manual impact tool.
#9
+1 on the 12point 8mm
You'll need it a few places, but especially to get the coil pack brackets off.
Also a 12mm 12point for connecting rod caps.
An 8mm allen head socket, needed for starter bolts, and a couple other places.
You also don't Need a fan wrench, as a standard 10"-12" adjustable wrench fits. Couple hits with a dead blow hammer, comes right off.
You'll need it a few places, but especially to get the coil pack brackets off.
Also a 12mm 12point for connecting rod caps.
An 8mm allen head socket, needed for starter bolts, and a couple other places.
You also don't Need a fan wrench, as a standard 10"-12" adjustable wrench fits. Couple hits with a dead blow hammer, comes right off.