An appeal to experienced, crafty mechnics for some tips on how to refill the automatic transmission case.

Crikey. I've faced this hurdle with other cars and in the past have been able to rig up tubes, etc. in gear oil bottles and managed to get the stuff up in there. The difference with my Discovcery is that I'm looking at six quarts or so of ATF.

Every thread related to this topic, and the factory manual to boot, blithely says "refill" without the slightest hint as to how one is supposed to get the stuff in there. I'll be doing the transfer case next week and it looks to be just as much trouble. BTW, the front and real axle gearboxes look manageable.

So what do you guys do that makes this job "easy and fun"? Thanks so much for your replies.

 

When transmission is cool drain ATF and fit drain plug. Fill until small bead pours for fill hole. Start the engine and shift through all the gears holding each one for 5 seconds. Start with "R" and work your way to "1", and then go back in the same manner.
The idea of this is to get the fluid into each and every nook and cranny as well as warm it up. Then with it’s in “P” crawl back under with it still running and top off. When it starts to come back out of the fill hole you are full. Put the plug back and then turn it off.
I would check it again after a day or two of driving. Repeat this process again in a few hundred miles, then again in another few hundred and you should have mostly new fluid.

For the t-case you might need a 6" flexible extension to get around the e-brake cable. Some can use a regular extension, but I couldn't get it. The front and rear diffs are the easiest. Drain and fill basically. Inspect the fill plugs and look for dryness or cracks. I replaced them with EE's brass plugs.

 

You need a hand pump. You can use the same hand pump to refill the transfer case too.

 

So let me get this straight, along with the trans dipstick tube, there's an oil plug that can be removed in order to add ATF to the trans?

I haven't cross this road yet, but I do plan on doing a ATF fliter and fluid flush. Just want to make sure I understand this ZF.

 

Candiman-On the DII there is no dipstick therefore there is no dipstick tube. The have a drain and fill plug like onthe t-case.
On your DI to change the trans filter you will need to remove a cross member to get the trans pan off of the truck.

 

I use a plastic tube from passenger side motor to tranny. I have a large catch basin for my used oil that I leave in place under the transmission. On this tube I have a funnel attached. I can then stand and slowley pour the fluid in. After cycling thru the gears I top it off. As there is usually oil in the tube when the trans is full it can be messy, but I find it easier than pumping it in.
Bake

 

Thanks for clearing that up. Are the D2's transmission manual like the D1's? For a late 90's vehicle, I was surprise to see a kick-down cable on my 98. That could be one of the reasons why the MPG isn't that great withDisco's. A transmission that has the capabilityto lock-up the torque converter will have better fuel economy.

 

According to the RAVE the torque converter lock-up is engaged in 3rd and 4th gears above 45 mph/72kmh. The D2's also have the kick down cable. That page has come in handy today.

 

Candiman-All cars from the '80's on have locking tourqe convertors. DII transmissions havea TCU (transmission computer).
The DI transmission is justlike the transmission in a 1970's car, simple and reliable. Only with a 4th gear. And locking tourqe convertor.
Both use a ZF (brand) transmisison which specializes intransmissions for off road dump trucks and bull dozers. As well as BMW's. Simple, precise and reliable.

 

Clearly I'm not a transmission man, but I've always associated lock-up torque conventers with electronic transmissions.

After further investigating, Disco2Guy is correct. My CD manual does state the torque converter locks up @ 51-54mph between 1875-2000rpm.