Transfer case flange removal?
#1
Transfer case flange removal?
Hi, so need to replace the transfer case output shaft seal on my 99 disco 11. leaking like crazy on this used fixer upper. I've seem many write-ups on the prop shaft but cant seem to find anything on the flange removal. It's been rebuilt with several grease fittings but obviously they ignored the flange.
I have the four forward bolts off the diff ( not leaking) and am about to take off the four bolts holding the prop into the flange. How then does the flange come out of the T-case so I can replace the output seal?
Thanks!!!
I have the four forward bolts off the diff ( not leaking) and am about to take off the four bolts holding the prop into the flange. How then does the flange come out of the T-case so I can replace the output seal?
Thanks!!!
#6
#7
When you remove the prop shaft you will see the 1 lock nut that holds the flange on remove nut and a little wiggling and the flange will come off. Nothing should pour out by any means. Never re-use nylock nuts they
Are a 1 time use.
P.s.dont beat on it with a hammer it does not need all that.
Are a 1 time use.
P.s.dont beat on it with a hammer it does not need all that.
Last edited by lr2001silver; 08-22-2012 at 12:19 PM.
#8
Okay removed front prop shaft. Locked CDL and went for a drive. NO more screeching noise!!
Now, what part has failed? The propshaft or the front output flange/bearing on the t case.
The driveshaft was rebuilt back in November of last year. Could it have failed? Visually, it looks good and solid. There is no play in the joints, but I do hear a slight scratching noise coming from the centering ball area. Plus, it looks like the area around the ball is dry, no grease. Could this have failed?
I would hate to spend the cash buy a new prop shaft just to find out the original is still good.
Thoughts on how to diagnose the issue further???
Now, what part has failed? The propshaft or the front output flange/bearing on the t case.
The driveshaft was rebuilt back in November of last year. Could it have failed? Visually, it looks good and solid. There is no play in the joints, but I do hear a slight scratching noise coming from the centering ball area. Plus, it looks like the area around the ball is dry, no grease. Could this have failed?
I would hate to spend the cash buy a new prop shaft just to find out the original is still good.
Thoughts on how to diagnose the issue further???
#10
OK easy enough so far. have a huge 3/4 drive old socket set that goes up to 1 5/8 with a giant torque bar so the nut didn't put up much of a struggle. the old seal is so hard and brittle its fused on the metal cir-clip ring that is in front of the bearing. looks a little rusty in there but not too bad. . been picking at the old seal for an hour trying to get it all off and out and clean. my flange looks pretty good with not much wear so I'm wondering if that was replaced with the new prop shaft but they ignored the seal?
Just put the new seal back in and I'm wondering if I have the right seal? Its the part shown on the British Atlantic site . When nut is set to speck ( 109 lbs ) I can no longer move the flange any by hand . I'm sure it's suppose to be fairly easy to turn by hand right? It certainly was before I took it off. It looks like the seal is suppose to go in and around the cir-clip and the shaft runs through it. The way this one is fitting it looks like its just forcing itself up against the cir-clip which would mean it would get all torn up when the shaft rotates???
I also found two hard plastic tubes coming from above and around the transmission and transfer case . are these the breather tubes for each? they were both fused ( looks like they hit the hot exhaust and got burnt closed. I cut the ends off and now they are open. wondering (from what I've read ) if this too was the cause of the bad leaks?
are they suppose to have one way valves in them or just hang up there open at the end?
Thanks!
Just put the new seal back in and I'm wondering if I have the right seal? Its the part shown on the British Atlantic site . When nut is set to speck ( 109 lbs ) I can no longer move the flange any by hand . I'm sure it's suppose to be fairly easy to turn by hand right? It certainly was before I took it off. It looks like the seal is suppose to go in and around the cir-clip and the shaft runs through it. The way this one is fitting it looks like its just forcing itself up against the cir-clip which would mean it would get all torn up when the shaft rotates???
I also found two hard plastic tubes coming from above and around the transmission and transfer case . are these the breather tubes for each? they were both fused ( looks like they hit the hot exhaust and got burnt closed. I cut the ends off and now they are open. wondering (from what I've read ) if this too was the cause of the bad leaks?
are they suppose to have one way valves in them or just hang up there open at the end?
Thanks!
Last edited by parkerlander; 08-22-2012 at 04:05 PM.