I agree with JKID, I've got a 9/16 that I ground on a bench grinder to lay flat on the fastener & ground the perimeter thinner.

luck,greg

 

I haven't needed to grind them down, just rotate the shaft to where it fits on squarely.

 

+1 with the front wheels off the ground you should be able to spin the tires and rotate the shaft to get the bolts in the correct position. I've never had a problem using a 9/16" regular old craftsman or williams combo wrench. I use a socket and a swivel extension on the bolts opposite the closed end.

 

Thank goodness for Land Rover Forum and PB Blaster! After a trip to Sears for a long pattern 9/16th wrench as well as a combo box end wrench for good measure. Thanks for the tip on lifting the front-end, made life easier. Finally got the nuts off, what a pain in the tail. Most of them loosened right up and came off easily. But for two of them, dang. Had to pull out the vice grips, two just didn't want to budge. Taking the prop-shaft/drive-shaft down to be rebuilt tomorrow. The front u-joint was tight and firm. The double cardon joint was loose and flimsy and there was a slight tick in one of the joints. As I mentioned, someone had changed one of the double cardon u-joints with a servicable joint, but only one of the two!

When I got the truck I noticed a slight shudder around 38 to 40 mph. With the shaft out, I gave it a test drive and NO SHUDDER! The thing is smooth as silk all the way to 65 mph. It must have been coming from the drive-shaft. Thanks for all of the input. By the way, I will be changing the nuts and bolts, don't want to deal with these used ones any longer, they feel more like lead than steel.

By the way the CDL on the transfer case looked more like a bolt that stuck out about an inch with a squared off bolt on the bottom. There is a very distinct click, feels spring fitted when you move the bolt 90 degrees clockwise to lock the center differential.

One other thing with the CDL locked, the CDL light came on, along with the ABS and Traction Control light. Is that normal? I have never engaged a CDL on a DII before. Thanks again for all of the help!

Phil

1999 DI (changing the tranny filter this week, trying to cure the stuck cold tranny bug)
2000 DII (man I love this $1000 truck! Blue Devil still holding strong)
2001 DII (just made it through a Utah winter without a hitch)

 

My best advice is that you keep your nuts clear of the drive shaft

I removed my drive shaft last night in about 15 minutes. I used a 14mm ring spanner on the nuts and tapped the end with a rubber mallet until the nuts broke free, then put a 14mm deep socket on the bolt end and they came off without any hassle. No penetrating oil was needed and from what I can tell the drive shaft has never been off. I must have been lucky... now on to replacing those u-joints.

 

If you engage CDL before starting then TC is disabled (and the dash lights are on) on some models (not on 2003 & 2004), if you start up and then engage CDL then TC remains enabled. This is supposed to be a software bug, but it gives you and option to run CDL with or without TC. Some people hate TC offroad, others don't care.

 

Great advice, I am always careful to keep all body parts away from moving auto parts.

As for the Traction Control and ABS lights, is it normal for both of them to be illuminated when the CDL is the on position? Thanks Phil

 

The TC light on indicates that it is disabled, 'normal' depends on your point of view. You locked the CDL before you started, so yes the light should be on.

 

I just got a call from the shop that is doing my front driveshaft rebuild, Driveline Service in San Diego. Cost $161, including three new u-joints Spicers and one Neapco Centering Ball 7-0081NG. I did the removal and will do the re-install. They also did my 2001 last summer. Great shop with exceptional service. If you are in the area, give them a try. By the way, my cost on the Neapco Centering Ball Kit was $24.95 (included in the $161). I will get it back this afternoon. Yeepee! Phil

 

sorry to bump thiis semi-old thread, but...

in order to engage the CDL without TC the car has to be off? So basically if youre about to hit the trail and want to engage the CDL with no TC, you gotta shut down and switch it on? I could see some guys giving me sh*t for this lol