It's really ALL about the prep. Though it's a different animal, waxoyl is not unlike POR-15 in that a quality prep is the key to stopping all the rust.

 

I also need to address the rust on my chassis. In addition to Waxyol I was also looking at is Eastwood rubberized rust encapsulator.
Eastwood Rubberized Rust Encapsulator - Black Aerosol

I haven't been able to find many reviews on it. No matter what I do, I know i need to spend some time wire brushing the rails.

 

Here is an article about Waxoyl from Winter 2004 Rovers Magazine
http://c7743.r43.cf2.rackcdn.com/Dow...SP14_pg2_5.pdf

 

when you get thru changing ALL your fluids, pour it all back into the bug sprayer and coat the bottom of your truck, just don't park in your drive way use a neighbors

 

There ware a thread on dweb about home made Waxoly.

I just googled "homemade waxoly" there are a few variations (toilet rings, mineral spirits, bar chain oil), but most are the same mixture (same text) as the dweb post.

Here it is:
2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole. such as inside doors etc.

 

so what about removing rust thats already on the chassis? The OP got me wondering that myself. Would sanding the chassis by hand get most the rust off, be it VERY time consuming.

 

Waxoly is designed to penetrate existing rust, displacing any moisture and sealing it from future moisture.

I am going to wire brush off the loose stuff, I have no plans to get to clean metal.

 

Sand yeah, but best to use an abrasive wheel, way less time. Or sandblasting but that can get messy and expensive.

Waxoyl really only slows rust down, it doesn't stop it. I would highly suggest removing it first if you really want protection. If the frame is scaly before you waxoyl it, the scales can fall off and leave the metal unprotected.

 

how about this...Frame Paint Kit - Frame Coater Kit - Stop Chassis Rust with KBS Coatings anyone ever use it?

 

So wire brushing, elbow grease and abrasive wheel is needed to remove the scaly stuff first. Got it. What I don't understand is the chatter about waxoyl being messy. Is it like old fashion tar where it is a bear to get on and off? A special applicator needed if I DIY?

Though I love my disco, don't know if my lovely bride will let me spend between $2-$3k at Robinson's place to get my Disco's belly cleaned up. Furthermore, if what I have read about how best to utilize the waxoyl when the metal is still fresh and new, I may take my '07 Mitsubishi Outlander to get cleaned up instead. Probably less money and I know I've got a lot more miles to put on the Mitsu to make it last.