IMHO I suffer similar problems and will go for a professionally rebuilt unit like these:-

Ashcroft Transmissions

To rebuild yourself is difficult with no guarantee of success and it sounds like either the box clutches and/or the torque converter are on their way out (the torque converter is not included in any rebuild kits). There is a heavy duty torque converter available and also an HD flex plate which improves particularly the V8 reliability. IMHO leave the rebuild to the specialists as you will find it very difficult.

 

First, do not panic.

Don't be paranoid. More than a few on this forum do panic or are paranoid.

You say you have been driving the truck without "much issue" but you don't say for how long nor for how many miles.

As others have said the ZF trans in the DII is one of its best features. They are largely bulletproof.

That does not mean they never fail but they are way down the list of problems.

If I were you I would probably continue draining and refilling the fluid until it remained in good condition. Failing that, or if there were real drivability problems, I would probably go with a used transmission from Paul Grant or from Abran because as others have said they are not that expensive, although somewhat of a hassle to change out.

Good luck.

 

Along with quality trans fluid I run Lucas Trans fix in the ZF in my Disco. I've also used it in other high mileage trannies as well and it works wonders. It won't keep your tranny running forever, but it will most likely give it some additional life.

 

Last time I did two refills, on the second I added a bottle of Lucas.

I would guess I had gone about 3000 miles since then and decided to check the fluid this time around because it has been shuddering again.

Not really panicking just planning for the worst. Like I said, they normal don't come back from a full black fluid burn. But, tranny fluid is relatively cheap so I might as well change it once more and add some more Lucas and see what happens

 

After thirty some years of rarely, if ever, swearing while working on a vehicle...this thing blew that streak out of the water after the first evening...lol.

First things first...

Remove both crossmembers, had to heat each tinny bolt on my rig...since it lived in Michigan its whole salt filled life. Granted, the front one isn't a hundred percent necessary...but it will allow you more room.

Get Y-pipe and muffler out of the way, remove everything all the way to the over axle-pipe.

Remove transfer case, eight or nine bolts...all lock-tighted in (thank you very much LR for that). I just swung mine back out of the way and held it up under the vehicle with a ratch strap...that way I didn't have to remove parking brake cable.

Unbolt trans mounts from frame, then remove passenger side trans mount completely from transmission, four bolts. This allows you to lift the trans and push it towards the passengers side, which will then allow you to lower the trans past the drivers side frame mount. Getting the drivers side trans mount off the trans...while underneath...is a big time pain in the you know what...so, I just did this once it was eventually out.

Now you are able to drop the trans some, and this allows you to get at all bell-housing bolts from underneath, using an assortment of extensions and patients. There's some ridiculous amount of bolts, 12 or 14...so make sure you get yhem all. There are only 4 torque converter bolts, assessable through a hole below the starter...look for big rubber plug, remove that...and this is where you will gain accessibility.

Remove XYZ switch and linkage/bracket, this will also allow easier access to the upper cooler line. Remove both cooler lines and one vent tube fitting (banjo fitting towards rear of trans).

Now you are ready to start moving the trans back on your jack, and this is where having the front crossmember out...comes in handy...it allows you to get some tools in between the bell-housing to separate them if stuck. Once you have cleared the bell-housing, start lowering the trans and look for any missed connections or harnesses.

Reverse process for installation.

Good luck,

Brian.

 

Brian,
you made it sound so easy. Might have to contact Land Rover and have them add that to the instructions. (I'm not trying to be sarcastic if it sounds that way)

 

"Reverse process for installation.

Good luck,

Brian."


Hey Brian, did you ever work for Haynes Workshop Manuals, that's their stock phrase which always makes it sound soooo simple

 

I think for removal from the donor vehicle, I'm just going to use a recipe saw / torch and disconnect the body from the frame... then have a friend help me roll it off the frame...

 

Atlantic British has reman tranny's for $3795

 

NObody is going to spend $3800 + shipping on a tranmission. The truck as a whole isn't even that valuable. A good, used and tested transmission goes for $300 shipped to your dock. Worst case scenario you buy another complete D2 with issues for under $2K and swap the trans and everything else you may need.