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  #11  
Old 12-16-2014, 02:48 PM
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I'm thinking I'm not liking all that composite crap coming off the OE valley gasket and ending up in the top. I'm doing the lower gasket replacement and I'm thinking of using the "old style" plated, all metal replacement...just wondering if there are incompatability issues with the OAT coolant.
 
  #12  
Old 12-16-2014, 07:51 PM
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None I am aware of. Plenty of people here have changed their coolant to all different kinds. Most say stick with green stuff. You should be fine.
 
  #13  
Old 12-18-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
i would suggest you do not put the AC compressor back in place yet. front cover tend to leak and more than once i have seen them leak at the top, right under the AC compressor.
I would suggest you get a pressure tester and find the leak before you start putting thing back together
So drowssap wins the prize. I actually found the time to pressure test the coolant system today and found out the front cover is leaking right underneath the alternator. So yeah for not having to pull the intake and go ahead and do a head gasket job while I was in there. Now I just have to figure out what all I'm looking at with the front cover job.
 
  #14  
Old 12-18-2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by thesoundguru
So yeah for not having to pull the intake and go ahead and do a head gasket job while I was in there. Now I just have to figure out what all I'm looking at with the front cover job.
Six of one...half-dozen of the other. Be sure to consider doing the following when you pull the front cover:

-oil pump (a MUST)
-water pump
-timing chain and gears
-rod and main bearings (you have to take off the oil pan to get the front cover off); if you've had low oil pressure due to a bad oil pump (very probable), you should change the bearings while you have them exposed

You're looking at $700-800 in parts alone. Just did this in July. Now I get to pull the intake next week to address the coolant leak at the rear. Not going to pull the heads, but will inspect all the rocker arms and replace the head bolts with ARP studs. Figure misery loves company...
 
  #15  
Old 01-04-2015, 08:45 PM
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Well all my parts are in but now I can't get the fan off. I have tried most people's tricks but am open to suggestions. Right now I would do anything.
 
  #16  
Old 01-04-2015, 08:48 PM
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did you try the vise grip method? Worked for me:

Land Rover Discovery Fan Clutch Removal | Another Tech Blog
 
  #17  
Old 01-04-2015, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by potxoli
did you try the vise grip method? Worked for me:

Land Rover Discovery Fan Clutch Removal | Another Tech Blog
did you damage the pulley at all when you did this?
 
  #18  
Old 01-05-2015, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by thesoundguru
did you damage the pulley at all when you did this?
it did scuff it with some light scratches, but no bending or structural damage.
 
  #19  
Old 01-05-2015, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by potxoli
it did scuff it with some light scratches, but no bending or structural damage.
I've done this a few times. It works. Another solution is to use an air hammer in conjunction with the fan wrench tool. Works like a charm, requires zero effort.

Here's a link to what I'm talking about.
http://www.tooldesk.com/automotive/L...-by-Lisle.aspx
 

Last edited by coors; 01-05-2015 at 06:38 AM.
  #20  
Old 01-05-2015, 06:42 AM
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note the post about removing the sump above
 


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