Ive ready many threads on this issue, and i honestly thought that i knew how to do this but i have tried to bleed my system 3 times and i still get the swooshing sound from under the dash. i constantly hear the swooshing every single time i step on the gas, specially when its cold.

here is what i tried so far.

-I made sure the reservoir was at least half full, and started the engine with the cap off and turned the heater On in High mode
- I also removed the bleed screw on the radiator and filled it up
- let it idle untill warm and then i started to press the gas to about 2000rpm's, after a few minutes the level begins to rise on the reservoir,
- i keep reeving the engine and when i let off the gas coolant comes out of the top of the reservoir, the level is still more than half.
- i replace the cap and turn the engine off.

ive done this 3 times, one time i even raised the front of the discovery and the swooshing sound does not go away, its so frigging annoying.

The Disco is not overheating at this time, but ever since i replaced the thermostat, and replaced the reservoir and cap with a new one and flushed the coolant system, i haven't been able to bleed the air out.

im mechanical oriented and im always doing work on my cars, ive replaced the rotors, plugs, oil, diff oils, etc. but i feel like a retard because i just cant get the air out of this thing.

I really, really appreciate any help i can get

Thanks
Christian R

 

Hey, Here's how I do it and it has worked for me each and every time, only difference is that i have a DII.... Make sure engine is cold before you start...

1. Remove the bleed screw
2. Un-restrict reservoir so you can raise it at a later time
3. With bleed screw off, completely fill reservoir with coolant
4. Raise reservoir so coolant will drain into hoses (still without starting truck)
5. Keep doing this until steady stream of coolant is coming out of bleed hole
6. Make sure that you are keeping the reservoir full the WHOLE time (DO NOT LET AIR GET IN THERE or you will have to start over)
7. Once steady stream is coming out, screw bleed screw on and fill reservoir to top
8. With cap still of reservoir and reservoir full, start truck and turn on your heater
9. Once you get heat and there is still plenty of coolant in the reservoir, cap the reservoir and from my experience, the extra coolant in the tank will come out of the overflow line
10. Re-connect your reservoir and all should be well. Don't forget to check your fluids the next day

I know this is not the way it is explained in the how-to section, but I tried that over and over and it didn't work for me, I may not have been doing it right, but this way has worked for me over and over so it is the way that I use!

Let me know if it works for you!

Best of luck!!

 

You don't bleed the engine with it running.
Do it when stone cold, remove the bleed, raise the coolant bottle if you want to, but not really necessary, start filling the coolant bottle till you get a steady stream from the bleed screw, replace the screw and coolant cap, start the engine and let it warm up.
Recheck it later in the evening, again only when cold, refill and then recheck it in a couple of morning.
If you are loosing coolant or over heating, then you may have a head gasket issue.

 

I have no d2 experience...so this is solely my D1 findings....I have only once had trouble getting things to bleed correctly on my '98. you might give this a try....engine cold....remove radiator end of top coolant hose and fill ( engine ) with coolant..quickly reinstall rad hose, remove top radiator fill plug and fill radiator, fill coolant reservoir, start engine and turn on the heater, allow engine to warm a little keeping an eye on the radiator level( add some if neccessarry ) then install radiator plug. At this point this was usually enough to do the job.......except for once....when it became neccessarry to remove the heater hoses where they attach to the engine and allow coolant to flow out thus flushing out the air....keep the reservoir full....and you may need to do this a couple of times untill the heater is blowing HOT air. When all is done and engine is cool....recheck the reservoir level. I know that this may not be the "book" method but desparate times call for desparate measures.......basically you have air in the heater core, thus the noise you hear.....this will let the air out. Good luck and let us know how things work out

 

Way too much extra work and by removing a hose you are setting yourself up for a potentially new leak when the hose will not reseal properly.

 

On a D1, if the new thermostat does not have a bleed hole in it, it will not bleed. (one more reason to buy genuine parts) You have to have the truck running unitl warm so the t-stat opens. Don't hit the gas. Make sure your heater is on. Once the t-stat opens and you see the level in the rad drop or start moving, top off and plug it.

Sounds like you are doing it right, with the exception of revving the engine. This will suck in air and then push out coolant. keep it at idle with the heat on full blast.

 

Rovers don't have bleed screws in there t/stats, only in the radiator for a D1 and the upper radiator hose for a D2.

 

no, they have little plastic ***** inserted into a hole in the t-stat for bleeding. I replaced my genuine one(with the ball) with a fail safe (no ball) and couldn't get it to bleed properly. I went to the dealer and bought a genuine one and it was fine.

 

Never seen that t/stat, learn something new all the time. But still, why worry about bleeding the t/stat, there is no way to trap air in there. The whole idea of bleeding the engine is to remove air trapped in the upper portion of the engine and heater since air rises to those areas.

 

but if the t-stat is closed, it will not allow air to pass and coolant level to rise. It is below the highest point of the top hose. If air is trapped in the upper portion of the block, how does it get out if the t-stat is blocking the path to the top hose? The little opening will allow air to pass, and eventually coolant. When parked on an incline, the t-stat is higher than the block and heater.