First off,

If there is ever another Camel Trophy team that requires a pitman to take apart/reinstall door panels, I'm there guy!

Just replaced the Driver Window regulator because window would not row up and made a bad buzzing sound like a buzzer was mounted in the door.

Called Lucky8 to get a regulator and motor. Was told that it is alway the crappy metal and crappy rollers in the actuator and the motor was fine. I told Eric that if I get this all apart and back together and the motor was bad, I would be calling back and yelling. He said ask for Justin if that happens, but not to worry.

Just got the new regulator put in and guess what. BUZZZZZZ no window go uppy!

Well, the regulator was obviously bad, but that seems to have put undo stress on the motor and it seems both are bad.

Justin, Get ready!! hopefully you will track Eric down and give him a ear full afterwards.

In all seriousness, Am I doing something wrong, or do I indeed have a bad motor?

 

Ours was more of a clicking sound. It ended up being the rollers were gone and was allowing the regulator to extend too far and the gears from motor to regulator were clicking.
We tested the motor before reinstalling to make sure it was working. I also found these on the web.

Discovery II Power Windows Rollers V5 (ZQNHTF3LW) by Georges_Payne

 

Buzzzzz can be the noise broken teeth in the motor gearing do. Or, if luck applies, a gear in a position past its last tooth. Worth checking if a failed regulator went past its stops points.
Buzzzzz itself kind of tells the motor is spinning good. Try manually helping the glass to start moving.

 

If I assist the window up, it will go.

Brand new regulator, so don't think it has anything to do with the gearing on the regulator.

 

It is not about the regulator gearing. I mean the older bad regulator allowed the motor gearing to pass its limit or destroyed its teeth.
If initially assisting the glass to start moving is successful, your motor is fine. Its attached gearbox is desynchronized to the regulator travel, or has bad teeth.

It may be possible to spin the motor a few turns to reset its position properly, but would take dislodging it from the regulator to achieve such, and doing it in the right direction. IF all teeth are healthy.

 

Can you service just the attached gearbox?

 

Done with a GM, not tried on LandRover. But first try to determine if it is just at the end of travel and can be reset to proper position before end of travel by turning the motor.

After manually helping the glass to midway; can it be raised and lowered with no help ?
If yes, chances are can be reset. If clicks during travel, a tooth may be gone.

Without having done it on a LR, I would try dislodging the motor assembly from the regulator, making it run and counting its output gear turns end to end.
Make it run again (counting to half of observed) to leave it at the center of travel-turns and re-attach to the regulator with glass at midpoint.

 

Ours had went past and gears were clicking, motor was fine and gears were not destroyed, so new regulator was the fix. We kept the regulator and am ordering the new rollers, that was what allowed the gear to overextend.

 

I may be wrong, but our motor ran as long as I put 12 volts to it. It stopped only when power was removed. So either the motor stops when enough resistance is applied(window closed) or controlled by module. Either way, we did just put motor on regulator as it stood and worked properly. Reversed polarity and the motor ran in reverse until power was removed.

 

Window will not go up at all without assistance. Even past halfway.

Goes down fine. I will tinker with repositioning it, but I think the internals are shot!