Thanks for all those good advices! I will be back with some picture of it.

 

Everything gets delivered to Canada, I'm from Quebec also, the thing is that by the time things get here, with the duty fees, applicable taxes and all, whatever you buy cost almost twice the advertised price. One of the suppliers I like, mainly because they give you a price with shippingand that is the price you pay and not a penny less, is Roverparkboys.com in Alberta Canada.

 

Hello everyone!

I went yesterday to check the Disco out. After a 1/2 hour test drive and 2 hours checking it closely I decided to buy it. The truck is actually in better shape than I thought. It probably won't need a brake job until some time, no squeaking at all and no clanking due tu bad bushings. And all of the u-joints are good. Here are the issues:

- Broken driverside mirror
- Hood doesn't open, the cable is completely seized... Your advice was good Spike but I will have to buy a new one
- The CDL shifter is seized, probably from inside the front console, I will have to take a close look at it.
- Tierod ends will have to be changed within the next months
- Leak in the power steering system

The very last thing that totally stumps me, is the noise it makes when I let go of the gas pedal, or slowing down. It sounds like gears working together, a kind of rattling noise. If I put it to neutral, the noise is still there. And as soon as I hit the gas pedal again, it goes away. So my conclusion is that the trouble has to be in the t/case, the differential or the wheels. Checked the front diff fluid level and it was fine. Did the same for the t/case, not sure of the level but there was some oil dripping as I was removing the plug. Can bad cv joints can make that kind of noise enven if the wheels are straight? If so I'm really happy to learn it.

As I intend to buy used parts to repair my Disco, are all of the Disco 1 the same no matter the year? I would like to check for someone who is parting out his truck on this forum. Thanks for any advice you can give me. Here's a picture of my newly bought Disco.


[IMG]local://upfiles/11641/913C6426E5534729B4C9582261EC9CE7.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/11641/B111399CD41F41D885FA7B9B0F754060.jpg[/IMG]

 

Because the truck is full time four wheel drive the transfer case sends power both fore and aft all the time. So when you slow down or speed up you will hear the gears inside the t-case. You can queit the gears by changing the fluid and replacing with a 85w-140 gear lube, do this in both the diffs too.
Typically bad CV's only make noise when bad and turning corners because that is when they are working the hardest. If you coast around a corner you can help them last alittle longer until you can replace them.
http://home.twcny.rr.com/eeibooks/ro...codifflock.htm
That link is for your stuck CDL shifter, once you get it working again use ot or lose it.
So the hood release wont move at all? You pull the lever and it wont budge?

 

Not at all. The previous owner tried harder than I did because the small plastic handle is broken. Only the cable is seized, I can open the hood from the front by pushing on the system.
For the t/case, unless I'm totally wrong (which I hope), are those that noisy? Because the rattling noise is kind of loud.

Thanks for the fast reply!

 

Well the t-case will make a whining noise not a rattle. You know what gears sound like when they are at high speed? I know you know the noise I'm talking about.
If you have a rattle it could be that the catalitic covertors are bad. Tap on them with a hammer when the engine is off and the truck is cold.
If they rattle they are bad.

 

Well then... I really don't know how to describe the noise. I'm lacking some vocabulary...
I forgot to mention... the noise isn't linked to any vibration. I tested the truck up to 45 mph.

 

The driveline in these trucks is noisy because it is all gear driven. If the fluid that is in it is wore out it will be noisier.
Right now you just need to change the fluids and then go from there.
But driveline noise and driveline slack is normal, as the gears wear it will get worse, using a full synthetic 85w-140 gear lube will help ALOT.
These are $45,000 trucks and need to be treated as such, you cannot go cheap.
They came with full syn in the gears from the factory.

 

Thanks. I will start from there and try to figure out once I will change the fluids. BTW... is it possible to grease the swivel ***** and how do I do it?

 

Yes, the swivel ***** need to be greased every 6 months. Turn the front wheels all the way to lock then turn the engine off.
There is a square plug on the top, remove it and stick your grease gun in the hole and pump in 20 pumps with your grease gun.
Do this to both sides.
They originally came filled with gear lube, but they leak. So Rover switched to a mixture of gear lube and grease, but you can use just straight grease.
That is what I use on mine and that is also what we used on the cement trucks that I drove.
You may need to use a can of carb cleaner to clean off where the fill plug is on the swivel *****.
Dont overfill the swivel *****, they will build up pressure and blow out your axle seals.