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If you want to make it work temporarily just bend the one withiut the roller farther the keyslot hole. It get caught inside and wont let the guide move. The motor if works has reduction gears inside and nothing can stop it from raising the arms inside. It could even bend all thise metal frame inside.
Like everything in this world it wears out sooner or later, even window regulators. The problem is they are rubbish manufacturing down to a cheapo price. Invariably it can only be one of two problems, the regulator or the motor and it's drive gearbox. The problem is it's the way they operate, they work on induced pressure when the motor gear reaches the ends of the semi-circular drive gear and then cuts out. But, the pivot points wear out on the regulator and then the motor tries to continue working and climbing/riding the semi-circular gear and causes the regulator to arrest/break. The motor and drive rarely breaks but the regulator gets destroyed instead. However, window regs are as cheap as chips to buy on Eblag and so it's cheaper to fit a new reg.
TIP: Ensure you lube/grease all the regulator pivots and motor gears well and also lube the window glass tracks with silicon spray regularly.
I think I know your problem because I'm having the same one right now.
Pull your window motor back out and pop off this metal cap:
I'm willing to bet that the rubber cog inside had ripped the middle out. I'm in the process of seeing if I can just remove it and fill in the whole gap with epoxy to make it work. I filled it in last time I was home and I will do it one more time next time I'm home before I reinstall. Fingers crossed that it works. Like yours, motor ran and sounded fine. Unless that's what you already checked, in which case nevermind. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Alex_M got it right.
I finally had an opportunity today to pop off the gearbox cover and test the motor under load and without a load. Sure enough, under no load the motor again moved the regulator just fine. But when I restricted the regulator gear the motor and its reduction gear spun as they should but the output shaft didn't move. When I looked more carefully there are cracks in the reduction gear "hub." I'll try to take a video this week once my son is back in town and I have enough hands to do it.
In the meantime I'll be ordering a new motor. As much as I admire Alex_M for trying to repair the gear train it's just not worth my time to do so. I'm satisfied that I found the real problem and I won't be just throwing parts at it.
I'm likely going to order the new motor as I said, but I realized the spare LH motor I have has a perfectly fine reduction gear. If I could only figure out how to remove it from the shaft I could install it in place of the defective one for the right-hand side but I can't see or find any snap ring or anything else holding the gear to the shaft. If anyone has a lightbulb moment please let me know, otherwise I'll place the order for a new motor and be done with it.
This is a pic of the good one for the left-hand side.
07-30-2017 | 03:50 PM
. The problem is they are rubbish manufacturing down to a cheapo price. Invariably it can only be one of two problems, the regulator or the motor and it's drive gearbox. The problem is it's the way they operate, they work on induced pressure when the motor gear reaches the ends of the semi-circular drive gear and then cuts out. But, the pivot points wear out on the regulator and then the motor tries to continue working and climbing/riding the semi-circular gear and causes the regulator to arrest/break. The motor and drive rarely breaks but the regulator gets destroyed instead. However, window regs are as cheap as chips to buy on Eblag and so it's cheaper to fit a new reg.
