OK, so a few weeks ago dealer replaced ABS relay and SLABS ECU. Well about a week ago while under normal braking on tarmac I hear abs kick in on one wheel then DONG DONG DONG - they're back again (the amigos) and it's a hard fault. I also currently do not have ABS. After getting buggered by the dealer who apparently didn't get it right I decided to look deeper into this myself (also ordered a faultmate today, very excited).

I wasn't about to pay to have the codes read after the raping I had just received so I started checking everything the old fashioned way. Everything seemed good till I got to the ABS pump. I jumped the pump from the battery and it sounded like there were tin cans in there and sometimes it would jam and not run. Pulled the modulator and pulled the motor off and jumped it. It ran quiet as a mouse. I then pulled the two little pumps that the motor activates and they seemed fine. Put everything back together and the pump runs perfect the first time I jump it. After that, the pump sounds better than before but still a little rough sometimes and will then quiet down. I havn't been able to find anything on those two pumps / plungers that go against the motor so I'm not quite sure how to proceed. It seems the kits available do not address them at all.


Bottom Line:

The ABS kicking in (when there should not have been any need for abs) and the amigos coming on instantly confuses me since I now have no ABS and the ABS initially kicked in when it shouldn't have.

Will the ABS pump not run on its own until the codes are cleared? I can't get it to kick on without jumping it.

Anyone ever have any issues with those two little pumps the ABS motor activates?

 

Just go back to the dealer, you have a 1 year warranty, let them fix it.

 

Yeah, but the catch is only if it's something they replaced. They only replaced the relay and the SLABS ECU. If it's not one of those I'm looking at $200 to plug it in and read the codes then full retail parts then labor. Since I just paid them $900 and change I'm really not that into doing it again.

Anyway all they do is plug it in, read the codes and replace what it says. I understand why that is, but there's no real diagnosis involved. I can do a much better and more thorough job myself for much less coin.

Any thoughts on the plungers etc. would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

 

Not if they mis-diagnoised the original problem.

 

So, they'll not charge me for diagnosis and if it's the modulator they'll eat the cost?

 

I didn't say that, I said you have a warranty, and if you are smart you will have them recheck it, if they missed, they shouldn't charge a check out time and you should try to get them to work with you on the needed repair.

 

Stubborn yes, smart no.

Since I've got a faultmate/rovacom on the way I'm just going to wait to see what it says but I'm pretty positive it's one of the two plungers/pumps in the modulator which the dealer will want to replace.... for a few grand. The modulator's a very simple part, just an aluminum valve block basically. I just cant see throwing one away because of the failure of a $20 part.

The best thing is that the plungers are such a simple/common part I know there's an alternative even if LR doesn't sell them. So, I'm going to do some research and see what I can find. If I can find a replacement for these parts it could help others save a few grand down the road.

When I tear it down again I'll take some pictures and keep you guys posted.