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03 Freelander didn't want to start

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  #1  
Old 07-28-2013 | 06:23 PM
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Default 03 Freelander didn't want to start

Today I shut down my Freelander as usual, about 45 mins later I tried to start it and it wouldn't , I had fuel, and plenty of battery, it cranked as usual but would not fire no matter what I did. I left the car for about two hours during which time I called a tow truck and agreed to meet him where I had parked, I tried to start the car one more time before the tow truck arrived. It started right up just as it always had, go figure, I guess the moral is call a tow truck as soon as you have a starting problem and the problem goes away. Anyone know what the real problem was?
 
  #2  
Old 08-01-2013 | 05:24 PM
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I have had mine do the same, with the problem being a false immobilization signal sent from the drivers door lock. If it happens again, try locking, then unlocking the door with the key (not the fob) and see if it starts.
 
  #3  
Old 08-02-2013 | 04:56 PM
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Thanks Rick
I had it in the shop today, for a different matter, when they were done guess what? It refused to start, I tried the key in the lock thing because I read your post last week it didn't work so it's still at the shop, hopefully they can find something concrete, if they do Ill post it.
Cheers
 
  #4  
Old 08-05-2013 | 10:05 AM
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The only other similar situation I had was related to the fuel pump. Ran fine when I parked it, but wouldn't restart. I pulled the fuel line apart where it connects just below and alongside the ECU box, and there was no pressure. After sitting overnight it decided to run again. I was getting the 171 and 174 lean curve codes before it gave up, replacement is a fairly simple job.
 
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Old 08-06-2013 | 06:38 PM
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After working on my car for two days ( not starting no matter what they did) they got it to behave after cleaning the mass airflow censor contacts. We tried everything to make it not start but it started every time so fingers crossed maybe they fixed it. Now all I have to do is fix the fact that it eats coolant, no drips nothing in the oil and nothing out the tailpipe ?????? Anyone got a Kia for sale?
 
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Old 08-21-2013 | 05:27 AM
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Default Immobilser problems with Freelander

Hi guys 2002 Freelander has a mind of its own re immobiliser..My tame LR mech (not a dealer) and I are going bonkers. On off, leave key in when parked, no lock, no luck. Lowering rear window from outside supposedly disarms , it worked once. Best tip I got was to disconnect (new) main battery for 20-30 mins. Tedious but it worked. Recalibrating keys and fobs didnt work. After a trip yesterday, parked car at home, key in ignition, no locking...no starting. In the morning hey presto! Solihull's answer to Area 52? Appreciate your views cheers..
 
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Old 08-21-2013 | 06:08 PM
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Hey Peter
I don't think it's the immobilizer, at least it wasn't in my Freelander.
I have this great mechanic was a dealership mech, now independent he has the computer and checked everything out. We changed the cam sensor and that fixed the starting problem, and it was an easy job. The next problem was losing coolant and couldn't find where it was going, just got that fixed today, it was the piping around the thermostat,leaking onto the valley between the cylinder banks and evaporating away. Not such an easy fix but we got er dun
Hope this helps
Cheers
John.
 
  #8  
Old 08-26-2013 | 05:21 AM
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Dear John...thanks for the reply. I will run the cam sensor issue with my mech. He also has a computer. It didnt work last time when he recalibrated fobs. Disconnecting the main battery for 15-30 mins apparently drains the juice from the immobilser circuits or whatever and wunderbar! it has been 5 days and it has been behaving ever since...I should add that the starter motor did crank all the way through this process so it was not a solenoid or low battery issue..cheers Peter
 
  #9  
Old 08-26-2013 | 03:55 PM
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As Skyhawk notes the cam sensor can be the cause and can also be intermittent. If faulty, the cam sensor will not shut the engine off, but is instead used only during the start sequence to program the ECU / crank sensor. Essentially it tells the ECU which of the two rotation cycles the engine is on based on the position of the front intake cam. A new sensor is inexpensive and can be replaced in five minutes. It is below the engine cover, and attached with one bolt to the upper right corner of the front valve cover.
 
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Old 11-09-2013 | 06:03 AM
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if it starts when engine is cold but will not start when engine is hot its the cam sensor
 



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