low compression test numbers/no spark
#1
10-18-2013 | 08:33 PM
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2013
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low compression test numbers/no spark
hello everyone,
I have an 03 freelander with a kv6 engine. Let me give a backstory of some of the problems I had and where I am now.
Ok, so I purchased an 03 freelander that was not running. The timing belt had snapped, and I replaced the timing belt. When I replaced the timing belt, I did a compression test and got 0 from all cyclinders. After disassembly of the heads, the valves were bent. I have replaced with all new valves and oil stems. I also replaced the head gaskets as well. After I put the intake manifold on, I noticed it started leaking coolant on the bottom of the block. I pulled the intake manifold back off, and there was coolant in cyclinders 2 and 6(right bank). I pulled the plugs, and turned the engine over to purge the antifreeze. I did a compression test again and on the back left cyclinder had a reading of 195. The others were 150 and then 195. On the left bank, I had readings of 100, 110, 110. Obviously I know I need to have a +- 10 % between them all.
What could be the possible causes for the fluxuation? I had set the timing belt already. Do i need to pull the heads and check the timing again?
2nd problem I'm having is no spark from the plugs. I tried putting the spark plug into the coil pack and grounding it to the cyclinder, and cranking the engine over, but I'm getting no spark. Where do I begin to troubleshoot the no spark issue?
Sorry for the wall of text
I have an 03 freelander with a kv6 engine. Let me give a backstory of some of the problems I had and where I am now.
Ok, so I purchased an 03 freelander that was not running. The timing belt had snapped, and I replaced the timing belt. When I replaced the timing belt, I did a compression test and got 0 from all cyclinders. After disassembly of the heads, the valves were bent. I have replaced with all new valves and oil stems. I also replaced the head gaskets as well. After I put the intake manifold on, I noticed it started leaking coolant on the bottom of the block. I pulled the intake manifold back off, and there was coolant in cyclinders 2 and 6(right bank). I pulled the plugs, and turned the engine over to purge the antifreeze. I did a compression test again and on the back left cyclinder had a reading of 195. The others were 150 and then 195. On the left bank, I had readings of 100, 110, 110. Obviously I know I need to have a +- 10 % between them all.
What could be the possible causes for the fluxuation? I had set the timing belt already. Do i need to pull the heads and check the timing again?
2nd problem I'm having is no spark from the plugs. I tried putting the spark plug into the coil pack and grounding it to the cyclinder, and cranking the engine over, but I'm getting no spark. Where do I begin to troubleshoot the no spark issue?
Sorry for the wall of text
#2
10-23-2013 | 10:38 PM
Mudding
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 170
Likes: 17
From: Grand Forks, North Dakota
When the belt snapped and bent the valves, the reaction on the piston could have cracked a liner. You could still get OK compression, but antifreeze is slippery and will leak in. If the timing belt is off more than one cog you will get compression loss, although slight. Did you use the KV6 timing belt tools? Check the wire connection to the crank sensor that is in front right below the left corner of the front cylinder head. If the crank sensor is bad, there will be no spark. It could also be the cam sensor that reads the left side of the front intake cam. If the ECU cannot detect a signal from either during cranking, it won't initiate the run sequence.
A second, less likely cause of spark loss is the engine imobilizer that reads the key to prevent theft. I have used the key to lock, then unlock the drivers door in lieu of using the fob and that seems to correct the problem. Go figure.
A second, less likely cause of spark loss is the engine imobilizer that reads the key to prevent theft. I have used the key to lock, then unlock the drivers door in lieu of using the fob and that seems to correct the problem. Go figure.
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