I think this is my first post on the Range Rover section, as I have a Disco2. Please be gentle

Several months ago, a lady came into the auto parts store where I work to get something for her 95 P38 4.0 SE. She found out I had a Disco, and asked who I have work on it, when it needs repairs. "Me", was my answer. She then asked who in our town would I recommend to her for repairs. I thought of all the repair shops I have dealt with for the past 15 years, and replied, "Me".

This Rangie has a multitude of issues: The wiring under the hood is a nightmare: fuses in the wrong places, aftermarket stereo wiring, etc. Typical sunroof leak. The message center lists ABS fault, SRS fault, LF door open when it is closed (most likely actuator from my basic diagnosis), EAS in manual mode (rear bags have been converted to coils) sunroof not set, and a few others that I forget. I believe I fixed the "windows not set" error this morning before I went to work. The ABS, Brake, TC, and SRS lights are on.

Little by little, I plan to bring this vehicle back to the proper maintenance level, and hope that in the end, there will be no message center warnings, or lights lit up on the display.

Last week, she said the most recent issue was the brake pedal going to the floor and having almost no brakes. I checked for fluid leaks, and saw none. The reservoir was over-full. I planned to bleed the brakes this morning to eliminate the possibility of air in the lines. OMG. Bleeding the brakes on this P38 is nothing like my Disco! No air from the first bleeder on the modulator, after filling the bleed hose with fluid. No air from the front calipers, after filling the hose with fluid. When bleeding the front booster bleed screw, per RAVE, no fluid came out, and the ABS pump never ran. Rear bleed screw was the same: ABS pump never ran. When I went to the rear calipers, I got no fluid coming out of the calipers. All of the ABS fuses in the under-hood box are good, and I can feel all 3 ABS relays clicking when ignition key is turned on. I didn't have my multimeter or the RAVE with me this morning, so I was stumped.

At that point, not having RAVE at the site (her house) I went back home to do some homework. Next time I go look at it, I am going to check for power to the ABS pump, and try energising it manually with a 12V feed. If no power to the pump, check the reason why, and if power to the pump, check why not engaging. After pump issue is resolved, check to see if normal braking returns.

Is there anything I am overlooking?

Thank you in advance!

 

Update: I stopped by briefly tonight to check the ABS pump. It never ran when I was bleeding the brakes, although several weeks ago, it was the cause of a battery drain because it never shut off.
The pump is getting battery voltage when the ignition switch is in position 2. I plan to price a used ABS pump from the usual suppliers, but can this be the only issue causing the weak brake pedal?

 

You should have said no I don't know anyone and walked away... lol

ABS pump has a pressure switch on it that usually get stuck open or closed
causing the pump to run or not. Gonna be hard to find a pressure switch
and it will cost as much as a pump. There is a good chance the accumulator
on the pump lost it's charge too. You can run the pump by jumping the round
connector at the pump. Best advice, replace the abs relay, pump, and accumulator
with a NEW one. ABS warnings should go out unless the system has another fault.
Be careful when working with the ABS hi pressure system. The pump (when working) produces 1500psi of pressure!!!

SRS warning probably got set when the battery died and just needs to be reset.

You still have time to walk away from this one....

 

have the same brake issues with abs/p.brake/tc lights staing lit and no brakes/ overfilled reservoir on 97 range rover 4.0se any updates on this.....?
im about to install a used pump just to see if the brakes will work before i plan to move on to the master cylinder .....let me know




also ..r u required to bleed the brakes after replacing the pump?
tnx