Clicking noise
#11
05-18-2006 | 11:53 AM
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 105
From: Denver, Colorado
RE: Clicking noise
ORIGINAL: moneypit37
Hey guys, I just acquired a 94 RR Classic LWB with the 4.2, 168000 and immaculate except...I have the same kind of problem. It seems to be worse first thing in the morning...cold start...my oil light stays on longer than any other light at startup. The noise then fades a bit after about 30 seconds to a light tick. It is a tough one to nail down, but DM seems to know the proper order to go about it.
I'm thinking mine is going to be all of the above. Starting with new oil sending unit (check pressure and pump while out), get oil pump rebuild kit, drop oil pan, clean top end and hope the noise goes away. I'm hoping for the oil blockage.
Check the weight of the oil in it. You may just need to get something a little thicker. When I got mine; it had 10W40 in it. I put 5 quarts of Castrol GTX 20W50 and 1 Quart of Lucas Engine Treatment and it has improved over the last 300 miles. I will drive it for a few more miles then do the above mentioned items.
Hey guys, I just acquired a 94 RR Classic LWB with the 4.2, 168000 and immaculate except...I have the same kind of problem. It seems to be worse first thing in the morning...cold start...my oil light stays on longer than any other light at startup. The noise then fades a bit after about 30 seconds to a light tick. It is a tough one to nail down, but DM seems to know the proper order to go about it.
I'm thinking mine is going to be all of the above. Starting with new oil sending unit (check pressure and pump while out), get oil pump rebuild kit, drop oil pan, clean top end and hope the noise goes away. I'm hoping for the oil blockage.
Check the weight of the oil in it. You may just need to get something a little thicker. When I got mine; it had 10W40 in it. I put 5 quarts of Castrol GTX 20W50 and 1 Quart of Lucas Engine Treatment and it has improved over the last 300 miles. I will drive it for a few more miles then do the above mentioned items.
After all is done, if you still have the noise, pull the valve covers clean with carb cleaner and inspect the rockers.
Mike
#12
05-18-2006 | 12:26 PM
Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Clicking noise
Yup, It looks like everything on this one is original, so I will need to do a bit of de sludging.
The sensor thing is a personal habit. I replace all sending units when I get a vehicle. I would feel like a real idiot if my idiot lights fail to work properly.
You are right though, it is probably just normal build up. I own a 92 Jeep (Just Exchange Every Part) Cherokee with 212000 miles on it, so I am very used to ticks along with oil pan and sump removal.
I will get a good engine flush and run it before the next oil change. I will also inspect the oil pump screen for blockage.
Mike, thanks so much for cutting through the costly process of replacing parts until the problem is solved!
I also have found that a $2 can of carb cleaner can do wonders for more than just your carb...
I will let you guys know what happens.
The sensor thing is a personal habit. I replace all sending units when I get a vehicle. I would feel like a real idiot if my idiot lights fail to work properly.
You are right though, it is probably just normal build up. I own a 92 Jeep (Just Exchange Every Part) Cherokee with 212000 miles on it, so I am very used to ticks along with oil pan and sump removal.
I will get a good engine flush and run it before the next oil change. I will also inspect the oil pump screen for blockage.
Mike, thanks so much for cutting through the costly process of replacing parts until the problem is solved!
I also have found that a $2 can of carb cleaner can do wonders for more than just your carb...
I will let you guys know what happens.
#13
05-18-2006 | 01:01 PM
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 105
From: Denver, Colorado
RE: Clicking noise
ORIGINAL: moneypit37
Yup, It looks like everything on this one is original, so I will need to do a bit of de sludging.
The sensor thing is a personal habit. I replace all sending units when I get a vehicle. I would feel like a real idiot if my idiot lights fail to work properly.
You are right though, it is probably just normal build up. I own a 92 Jeep (Just Exchange Every Part) Cherokee with 212000 miles on it, so I am very used to ticks along with oil pan and sump removal.
I will get a good engine flush and run it before the next oil change. I will also inspect the oil pump screen for blockage.
Mike, thanks so much for cutting through the costly process of replacing parts until the problem is solved!
I also have found that a $2 can of carb cleaner can do wonders for more than just your carb...
I will let you guys know what happens.
Yup, It looks like everything on this one is original, so I will need to do a bit of de sludging.
The sensor thing is a personal habit. I replace all sending units when I get a vehicle. I would feel like a real idiot if my idiot lights fail to work properly.
You are right though, it is probably just normal build up. I own a 92 Jeep (Just Exchange Every Part) Cherokee with 212000 miles on it, so I am very used to ticks along with oil pan and sump removal.
I will get a good engine flush and run it before the next oil change. I will also inspect the oil pump screen for blockage.
Mike, thanks so much for cutting through the costly process of replacing parts until the problem is solved!
I also have found that a $2 can of carb cleaner can do wonders for more than just your carb...
I will let you guys know what happens.
Mike
#14
05-18-2006 | 04:26 PM
Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Clicking noise
(Just Exchange Every Part) Cherokee, I like that. I worked in a Jeep shop for years and never heard that.
Mike
Mike
In the last 30,000 miles I have put about $9000 in it. Below is a link to the list (list was a ballpark).
Here is the list:Money Pit 36
Oh ya and this weekend is a new clutch assembly. The trow out bearing/slave cylinder collar started to squeal the day I put for sale signs in her.
I need to sell this one to feed the RR.
#15
05-19-2006 | 12:59 AM
Winching
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
From: USA
RE: Clicking noise
[quote]ORIGINAL: Disco Mike
ORIGINAL: moneypit37
With your mileage, consider a good engine flush first, if that doesn't help, pull the pan clean with carb cleaner and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. If you still have a problem, do a mechanical oil pressuer test to verify the real numbers. I doubt you need a new sender, the noise is the proof of that.
With your mileage, consider a good engine flush first, if that doesn't help, pull the pan clean with carb cleaner and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. If you still have a problem, do a mechanical oil pressuer test to verify the real numbers. I doubt you need a new sender, the noise is the proof of that.
#16
05-19-2006 | 12:54 PM
Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Clicking noise
With your mileage, consider a good engine flush first, if that doesn't help, pull the pan clean with carb cleaner and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. If you still have a problem, do a mechanical oil pressuer test to verify the real numbers. I doubt you need a new sender, the noise is the proof of that.
After all is done, if you still have the noise, pull the valve covers clean with carb cleaner and inspect the rockers.
Mike
After all is done, if you still have the noise, pull the valve covers clean with carb cleaner and inspect the rockers.
Mike
#17
05-19-2006 | 02:19 PM
Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Clicking noise
I just had both my heads re-done and the mechanic told me that it is not uncommon for the hydralic lifters to get clogged with gunk, especailly if cheap oil is used. Luckly my turned out ok but he did strongly recommend using only valvoline 20w50 racing oil and stated that it's protection was far superior to any other oils. I had been using it already in my 5.0 Mustang and just started using it my wifes 01 300M and it no longer takes a second or so to fully oil up when first started in the mornings which is good considering it has a new crate motor with only 4k miles on it. Also consider running some K&W motor flush just before you change your oil that along with the valvemedic that someone else suggested to help flush out the oil sytem and prevent any blockage.
#18
05-19-2006 | 03:35 PM
Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Clicking noise
My oil light is now the first to go off when started. It used to take up to 20 seconds to go off even on warm starts before this treatment.
That valvemedic must have got something un-stuck.
I like the Valvoline oils also. I use them in my Jeep. I usually use 1 quart of synthetic in the mix since my XJ runs hot, it's a stick and it sees some sustained high rpms.
25,000 miles on a Crate engine and not so much as a light tick! And that is amazing for a I6 4.0L.
That valvemedic must have got something un-stuck.
I like the Valvoline oils also. I use them in my Jeep. I usually use 1 quart of synthetic in the mix since my XJ runs hot, it's a stick and it sees some sustained high rpms.
25,000 miles on a Crate engine and not so much as a light tick! And that is amazing for a I6 4.0L.
#19
05-23-2006 | 02:35 AM
Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Clicking noise
ORIGINAL: moneypit37
My oil light is now the first to go off when started. It used to take up to 20 seconds to go off even on warm starts before this treatment.
That valvemedic must have got something un-stuck.
My oil light is now the first to go off when started. It used to take up to 20 seconds to go off even on warm starts before this treatment.
That valvemedic must have got something un-stuck.
I only drive it about 20 miles a day so time will tell...
I change my oil at least every 3 months weather it needs it or not.
This is my first oil change and it'is still clear after about 600 miles and no loss as far as I can tell.
I will run for another week then put in the other half of the Gunk and give it another week and change the oil and filter again.
At that time I will also drop the pan, check the sump tube, change oil pressure sending unit, check oil pump, screen and springs, do cap, rotor, platinum plugs.
I am thouroughly amazed at how quickly this engine has turned around and has even increased milage by about 50% (from 10MPH to 15MPG).
#20
05-23-2006 | 01:22 PM
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 105
From: Denver, Colorado
RE: Clicking noise
[quote]ORIGINAL: Bait
Bait,
You are so far off base, I can't believe you as a moderator on this site have so little knowledge of this issue. Tell us why you feel flushing out an engine is a waste of time and what you base this on. Me I base mine suggestions on nearly 30 years working in the shops of dealerships as a service writer and manager.
Mike
ORIGINAL: Disco Mike
Engine and trans oil flushes are pure snake oil. Don't fall for it. Those who advocate it could post proof that it works. Waiting for the proof...
ORIGINAL: moneypit37
With your mileage, consider a good engine flush first, if that doesn't help, pull the pan clean with carb cleaner and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. If you still have a problem, do a mechanical oil pressuer test to verify the real numbers. I doubt you need a new sender, the noise is the proof of that.
With your mileage, consider a good engine flush first, if that doesn't help, pull the pan clean with carb cleaner and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. If you still have a problem, do a mechanical oil pressuer test to verify the real numbers. I doubt you need a new sender, the noise is the proof of that.
You are so far off base, I can't believe you as a moderator on this site have so little knowledge of this issue. Tell us why you feel flushing out an engine is a waste of time and what you base this on. Me I base mine suggestions on nearly 30 years working in the shops of dealerships as a service writer and manager.
Mike