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  #11  
Old 02-21-2009, 06:02 PM
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Hey Chris-- ps I did get a fault message---the icon came on the dashboard--the car with a forward arrow and it was sitting on the ground. They cleaned something (the compressor?) and it worked again for a few days. But now it takes forever for the air to go back up. If it's a small fix, I'd hate to convert to coils. I love the car--it's so luxurious. But complex!
 
  #12  
Old 02-21-2009, 08:22 PM
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The EAS really isn't that complex (not trying to offend you) it's just somewhat new and most people have little to no knowledge of the system. The good news is it's becoming pretty common on other SUVs, some cars, and trucks.

If it takes forever to go back up it's probably a dying compressor. The bad news is the compressor is one of the more expensive EAS components. I would try a compressor rebuild. Like Chris mentioned, the teflon seal can become worn down and cause the compressor to have to work much more then it should and cause the truck to take much longer to rise.

Regards
 
  #13  
Old 02-21-2009, 08:48 PM
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lesliemukler , check out this site may help you to understand your eas . Mine has 82K, I have replaced the compressor . I picked one up for $ 450.00. The MARS system is a cheap quick fix while you have your system evaluated.
http://www.rswsolutions.com/media.htm
 
  #14  
Old 02-22-2009, 12:53 AM
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Hi Guys, I've got a seal issue myself right now and this excerpt from a previous post in this thread got my attention.

Originally Posted by rr95
I would suspect a compressor seal. 1/2 hour and under $10 with regular tools to fix it.

Chris.
While I totally agree a seal can be changed out in a 1/2 hour or less as I've had mine apart a few times, please educate me as to where I can obtain a seal for $10 or less.

I just recently ordered one from overseas and it arrived in a standard flat first class envelope. Lets just say the once cupped seal is now about as flat as a pancake and cost me $30 shipped. I don't even want to try and put it in it's so deformed.

I am waiting on a response to see if they will replace or refund it, but I am still out a seal.

Chris please share your wisdom on a $10 fix!

Thanks,
Joe
 
  #15  
Old 02-22-2009, 07:21 AM
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http://www.rover-renovations.com


My bad, I see that Dennis is now including o-rings with his kit and the price is $45 I guess it's been a while since I got mine, (seal only) and I was able to source the o-rings myself. On the bright side though, Dennis' site has very clear instructions on the swap and nice pictures to boot
Sorry about that, but still a fair price.

Chris.
 
  #16  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:01 AM
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Default Hey folks, EAS a PITA ?

As an adendum to my previous post, I see that Dennis has new Gen II air bags for around $500/set, re-built compressors at about $250, a reset widget for $150 and a MARS system for $125 not to mention just about everything you need for a complete overhaul of the EAS system and excellent photographic instructions. Now, considering that anyone can perform this work with pretty basic hand tools, why the heck would you want to convert to coils when you could rebuild your system for less money ?

Chris.
 
  #17  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:45 AM
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compute evrything and you get more than paying 500 dollars for a coil. ive nothing againts eas but we all know that rr never really perfected it, imo coils are more rrealible especially on long trips coz you dont have to worry that the next morning your rr is down on top of a bump stop. btw i still use my eas on my other p38 and have not yet experience any problem so far, but when i get major one's ill sure to just replace it and if i get the parts needed ill just put it back again, im from the philippines so parts doesnt come as easy as in the far east
 
  #18  
Old 02-23-2009, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rr95
That's an oxymoronic statement isn't it ?
The ride on coils is nasty when compared to EAS and it will hurt re-sale value as well.
Before you castrate your Rover lesliesmukler, try this; Run the car for 10-15 minutes with the driver door open, this should allow the compressor to fill the air tank if the compressor is good. Next, shut the door and with the engine running the height indicators should settle to regular height in around 15 seconds. If this doesn't happen, I would suspect a compressor seal. 1/2 hour and under $10 with regular tools to fix it.
In any event, get the car to full height then remove the valve block cover, squirt all the connections and solonoids with a soapy water solution, any bubbles ? Next, get down and dirty. Crawl under each corner and douse the airbags with the soapy stuff, get your wife or a friend to cycle the suspension through its different heights and check the bags again, sometimes they will seal at one height and leak at another. next, above the rear wheels and in the arch centre you will see the air line connectors (6mm black lines) where they connect to the bags, squirt away and check for bubbles then lastly, under the hood you will see the front bag tops and the respective air lines, squirt away again. Find the problem yet ? This whole operation is so easy to do, no need to remove a wheel and can be accomplished in less time than it takes your coffee to go cold or your beer to go flat.
Judging by your posts, i'm guessing that your problem is just that pesky compressor seal, I could be wrong but since the car has obviously not hard faulted and gone into limp mode i'm betting that your troubles are relatively minor. I am surprised that your mechanic has not tested this out and is probably unfamiliar with EAS. Fitting coils is a money making cop out for him.
Please give the above a try and report back, you just might be pleasantly rewarded with some coin in the bank. I can PM you some interesting reading if you would like to check this whole thing out. Not fair to this site though, to post another sites information for general consumption.
Good luck,

Chris.
i was just reading your reply to another person how to check EAS sstem leaks, and its very nollegeable. can you email me or send more specifi details on that. and also do you know how to change air springs if the leaks. thankk you
 
  #19  
Old 02-24-2009, 07:38 AM
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You have PM regarding the bag swap Val, what in particular do you need to know more about testing for leaks ? One good trick is to leave the driver door or rear hatch open over night. Since the car computer wakes up every so often to level the car to the lowest corner, leaving the door or hatch open will prevent this from occuring. If one area of the car is now lower than the others this will point you more directly to the potential problem area.
For obvious reasons don't do this if you park the car in a less than secure area and remember to turn off the interior lights manually, you don't want a flat battery.

Chris.
 
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