EFI light came on in my ´89 RR
#1
09-23-2006, 04:56 PM
EFI light came on in my ´89 RR
The EFI light came on a few days ago, but I´ve had to continue to drive it. As it is my primary vehicle and I was on a business trip.
The only real thing I´ve noticed wrong with it is the idle seems jumpy.
Also, the fuel cap seems to be leaking... fuel sloshes out when it´s close to full. Are there good aftermarket vendors or should I opt for the oem LR part?
This truck is like an onion each day reveals a new layer, but I´m loving driving it and the tricked out suspension although it´s already sounding crunchy is just the ticket for the mean roads down here.
If you´re interested in seeing a picture, there are a couple at my website... http://www.matthewrjohnson.com
Thanks in advance for any help.
The only real thing I´ve noticed wrong with it is the idle seems jumpy.
Also, the fuel cap seems to be leaking... fuel sloshes out when it´s close to full. Are there good aftermarket vendors or should I opt for the oem LR part?
This truck is like an onion each day reveals a new layer, but I´m loving driving it and the tricked out suspension although it´s already sounding crunchy is just the ticket for the mean roads down here.
If you´re interested in seeing a picture, there are a couple at my website... http://www.matthewrjohnson.com
Thanks in advance for any help.
#2
09-25-2006, 03:37 PM
#3
09-25-2006, 04:59 PM
RE: EFI light came on in my ´89 RR
Matt,
The light indicates that there is a engine related fault code stored in the vehicle. It could be due to a number of things, such as coolant temp, throttle position switch,the Mass Air flow meter being dirty, O2 sensors failing, etc.
I've pasted in below a couple of pages from rangerovers.net regarding the EFI light coming on. This site is an excellent one for Range Rover owners!
Also read my tech pages at www.eurotekapg.com to further arm yourself with info you should have when owning and maintaining a Range Rover Classic.
Regards,
Geoman
Classic Models
Most Common Cause of the Light Coming On:
The most common cause is one of the oxygen sensors needing replacement. (Don't bother to replace both -- the other one might soldier on for another 50K miles!). In fact, Kevin Kelly has heard from mechanics that half the EFI light and Check Engine light problems can be fixed by pulling the O2 sensor plugs apart and putting them back together with a little dab of dielectric grease. Kevin cleans all automotive connectors with spray contact cleaner (and a small rat tail file if there is any corrosion) then uses a dab of Permatex dielectric grease before putting the connectors back together.
Model Year Details and Resetting Procedures:
The "Check Engine" light, located on the auxiliary switch panel, was first introduced in the 1988 model year, and for 1988-92(?) models merely reminds you that your vehicle has reached a certain mileage and should have its emissions systems checked. It is otherwise known as an "emissions maintenance reminder, and is designed to come on at 52,000 mile intervals (52,500, 105,000, etc.). It does not indicate any fault in the engine. In 1993(?) it was renamed the "Service Engine" light and performed the same function.
The light is controlled by a small brown box that looks like a relay, about one inch by two inches, with a sticker labeled "Emission Maintenance Reminder". On 1988 models it is under the lower dash panel, attached to the steering column support bracket along with some relays. On 1989 it was moved to a position under the passenger seat along with the relays behind the EFI ECU. There is a hole in the box, under the sticker, into which a small screwdriver can be inserted to connect two contacts and reset the light.
On 87-92(?) models, there is an "EFI" light in the main instrument binnacle warning light cluster. It illuminates when the ECU can no longer maintain the correct air/fuel ratio due to a malfunction in either the throttle potentiometer, mass airflow sensor, or water temperature thermistor. (Other faults can be detected by the ECU; however these do not cause illumination of the EFI light, and require the dealer's plug-in diagnostic tester to display them). Even with a fault in the system, the ECU will still get you home using its limp home" feature -- which I found indistinguishable from normal operation. The light is reset by disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU with the ignition off. If the light comes on again afterwards there is a definite fault. (See also Sensor Failure section of Common Problems and Fixes page).
EFI Light: (See also Check Engine/ EFI/ Service Engine Lights Page) The EFI light is designed to come on when the ECU detects high engine coolant temperature (this uses a different sensor from the one that drives the gauge) or a malfunctioning Throttle Potentiometer, Oxygen Sensor or Air Flow Sensor. Like any other warning light, however, it is not above coming on for no apparent reason at all; I have had this happen when, for example, running the fuel tank very low. Fortunately, in most cases, even if there is a real fault detected, the ECU continues to manage the engine just fine under modified "get you home" software. If the EFI light does come on, it pays to try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU; if the light comes back on again soon there is a fair chance it has really detected something that needs attention when you get back home. Kevin Kelly has heard from mechanics that half the EFI light and Check Engine light problems can be fixed by pulling the O2 sensor plugs apart and putting them back together with a little dab of dielectric grease. Kevin cleans all automotive connectors with spray contact cleaner (and a small rat tail file if there is any corrosion) then uses a dab of Permatex dielectric grease before putting the connectors back together.
Summary: When the warning light comes on, SUSPECT THE SENSOR FIRST, but do stop and check out the problem anyway!
The light indicates that there is a engine related fault code stored in the vehicle. It could be due to a number of things, such as coolant temp, throttle position switch,the Mass Air flow meter being dirty, O2 sensors failing, etc.
I've pasted in below a couple of pages from rangerovers.net regarding the EFI light coming on. This site is an excellent one for Range Rover owners!
Also read my tech pages at www.eurotekapg.com to further arm yourself with info you should have when owning and maintaining a Range Rover Classic.
Regards,
Geoman
Classic Models
Most Common Cause of the Light Coming On:
The most common cause is one of the oxygen sensors needing replacement. (Don't bother to replace both -- the other one might soldier on for another 50K miles!). In fact, Kevin Kelly has heard from mechanics that half the EFI light and Check Engine light problems can be fixed by pulling the O2 sensor plugs apart and putting them back together with a little dab of dielectric grease. Kevin cleans all automotive connectors with spray contact cleaner (and a small rat tail file if there is any corrosion) then uses a dab of Permatex dielectric grease before putting the connectors back together.
Model Year Details and Resetting Procedures:
The "Check Engine" light, located on the auxiliary switch panel, was first introduced in the 1988 model year, and for 1988-92(?) models merely reminds you that your vehicle has reached a certain mileage and should have its emissions systems checked. It is otherwise known as an "emissions maintenance reminder, and is designed to come on at 52,000 mile intervals (52,500, 105,000, etc.). It does not indicate any fault in the engine. In 1993(?) it was renamed the "Service Engine" light and performed the same function.
The light is controlled by a small brown box that looks like a relay, about one inch by two inches, with a sticker labeled "Emission Maintenance Reminder". On 1988 models it is under the lower dash panel, attached to the steering column support bracket along with some relays. On 1989 it was moved to a position under the passenger seat along with the relays behind the EFI ECU. There is a hole in the box, under the sticker, into which a small screwdriver can be inserted to connect two contacts and reset the light.
On 87-92(?) models, there is an "EFI" light in the main instrument binnacle warning light cluster. It illuminates when the ECU can no longer maintain the correct air/fuel ratio due to a malfunction in either the throttle potentiometer, mass airflow sensor, or water temperature thermistor. (Other faults can be detected by the ECU; however these do not cause illumination of the EFI light, and require the dealer's plug-in diagnostic tester to display them). Even with a fault in the system, the ECU will still get you home using its limp home" feature -- which I found indistinguishable from normal operation. The light is reset by disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU with the ignition off. If the light comes on again afterwards there is a definite fault. (See also Sensor Failure section of Common Problems and Fixes page).
EFI Light: (See also Check Engine/ EFI/ Service Engine Lights Page) The EFI light is designed to come on when the ECU detects high engine coolant temperature (this uses a different sensor from the one that drives the gauge) or a malfunctioning Throttle Potentiometer, Oxygen Sensor or Air Flow Sensor. Like any other warning light, however, it is not above coming on for no apparent reason at all; I have had this happen when, for example, running the fuel tank very low. Fortunately, in most cases, even if there is a real fault detected, the ECU continues to manage the engine just fine under modified "get you home" software. If the EFI light does come on, it pays to try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU; if the light comes back on again soon there is a fair chance it has really detected something that needs attention when you get back home. Kevin Kelly has heard from mechanics that half the EFI light and Check Engine light problems can be fixed by pulling the O2 sensor plugs apart and putting them back together with a little dab of dielectric grease. Kevin cleans all automotive connectors with spray contact cleaner (and a small rat tail file if there is any corrosion) then uses a dab of Permatex dielectric grease before putting the connectors back together.
Summary: When the warning light comes on, SUSPECT THE SENSOR FIRST, but do stop and check out the problem anyway!
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09-25-2006, 07:06 PM
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